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Overheating during extended idle

30659 Views 28 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Sunline Fan
Cruze has 42k miles on it. The last 3 days in a row my car overheats while idling in heavy traffic. It did this with a/c off. Car went back to normal operating temp once I was moving. Any thought to what part is going bad?
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I was finally able to replicate the issue by idling at 220-225/normal operating temp and having someone rev the engine slighty with the A/C on. The temp began to creep up to 240/middle line on the gauge.

There was alot of clicking sounds, which we assumed was the car trying to turn the fan on, but the fan never came on.

Thanks to all that pointed this out and the reminder that I can review engine temp in the lcd driver screen. Hopefully my extended warranty will cover the repair.
Check water pump or any leaks underneath the vehicle, look in between the plastics.... it is covered pretty good but you will see if the surface is wet whatsoever! Goodluck
I was finally able to replicate the issue by idling at 220-225/normal operating temp and having someone rev the engine slighty with the A/C on. The temp began to creep up to 240/middle line on the gauge.

There was alot of clicking sounds, which we assumed was the car trying to turn the fan on, but the fan never came on.

Thanks to all that pointed this out and the reminder that I can review engine temp in the lcd driver screen. Hopefully my extended warranty will cover the repair.
Hey Farmer,

Glad to hear that you were able to get this replicated! We look forward to your updates on what they find out.

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care
Ha, loved those 50's VW bug commercials, even though I have never owned one, like driving faster than 50 mph. Their claim to fame was no cooling system problems, for the simple reason, they didn't have a liquid cooling system.

Problem #1 with liquid cooled systems, needs a radiator, since day one, mounted in the front of the vehicle with a dual purpose of being a bug collector. You think your windshield is bad, you should look at your radiator. Severely blocks air flow, the only cooling media.

Problem #2 FWD vehicles, was proposed to put in an angled shaft for an engine driven fan like RWD vehicles, too expensive, so electric fans were installed. Was sure a problem for us electrical guys, maximum cooling is required when stopped at engine idle when the alternator was least capable of delivering this now super high current. Some fans drew as much as 45 amperes.

Problem #3 started with controlled fans using fluid couplings and conserving fuel, talk about idiots, the absolute power these fans can draw is well less that 1/3 HP, and you need this cooling again when stopped. When driving on the highway, have a windmilling effect with practically zero fan load on the engine, but for whatever reason, these guys got a bug up their butts, have to screw around with the fan.

Problem #4 started with electronic fan control to minimize its operation, no longer used radiator thermistor sensors to determine when the radiator was getting too hot, but using the engine temperature sensor to control the fans. Positively idiotic.

Fans would kick on with a 195*F thermostat at around 205*F and up to 235*F that gave a 30* thermo cycling effect and when coupled with an aluminum head on a cast iron block, expansion of that head was seven times greater than the block, so invented head gasket problems, all to save about 25 cents on a radiator sensor. Augmented by the fact the radiator was ready to blow its cork with no cooling reserve. I solved this problem myself by adding a thermistor to the center of the radiator that would kick on the fans at 160*F so the engine ran at a constant 195*F. Seem to be one of these guys against mods, this one was necessary.


Problem #5, use of point contact relays to energize a fan, with any motor a huge surge current exists when first started up generating a carbon like arc on the contacts so they don't make contact. A Power MOSFET is a far superior switch, haven't done this to the Cruze yet, but going to soon, my bumper to bumper warranty is dead. Also the Cruze does maintain a constant thermostat temperature, don't have to fool with this.

Problem #6 and really started with the Cruze, worse vehicle I have ever owned to clean the face of the condenser on. You can't remove that radiator shroud from the top. Only access to it is to remove that shroud from the bottom to have bugs drop in your face. Really don't like this.

So you wonder why you have problems?

On other vehicles have mounted an aluminum screen in front of the condenser angled forward, the larger bugs drop off, smaller ones can be brushed off. But they don't recommend this, they want us to have problems.
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Problem #5, use of point contact relays to energize a fan, with any motor a huge surge current exists when first started up generating a carbon like arc on the contacts so they don't make contact. A Power MOSFET is a far superior switch, haven't done this to the Cruze yet, but going to soon, my bumper to bumper warranty is dead. Also the Cruze does maintain a constant thermostat temperature, don't have to fool with this.
You must not have the actual thermostat readout. The Cruze's thermostat needle lies to keep idiots from flooding their dealerships with "my car won't keep a constant temperature" complaints. I remember when cars had a green band on the thermostat showing the normal operating range and everyone expected the needle to move up and down as you drove. I've watched my ECO's digital temperature readout and the temperature varies from 179F to 230F without any movement in the needle. The temperature goes down under heavy load and climbs under light load (not DFCO).
I took the car in. Repair was covered by extended warranty. It was the radiator fan itself.
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2012 1.4 turbo w/50,000. .. I have taken it to the dealer 2 times since February 2015. Once was a leaking overflow hose, 2 weeks ago it was a cracked thermostat housing. Still overheats to this day. Temperature runs north of 240 degrees. Always having to refill radiator overflow tank. Dealer says its all good, no worries. Called gmac "lakeisha" case# 71-1464987891 No Reply. Seriously considering taking a loss on this vehicle. This will be the 3rd time a rental car will have to be rented. To the dealers credit both repairs were covered by warranty, but whats the point if it never gets fixed??
2012 1.4 turbo w/50,000. .. I have taken it to the dealer 2 times since February 2015. Once was a leaking overflow hose, 2 weeks ago it was a cracked thermostat housing. Still overheats to this day. Temperature runs north of 240 degrees. Always having to refill radiator overflow tank. Dealer says its all good, no worries. Called gmac "lakeisha" case# 71-1464987891 No Reply. Seriously considering taking a loss on this vehicle. This will be the 3rd time a rental car will have to be rented. To the dealers credit both repairs were covered by warranty, but whats the point if it never gets fixed??
Hey Cameron,

We truly apologize for this concern! I did locate your case, but I can certainly take it over on your behalf. Please send me a private message along with your info for additional assistance. Looking forward to hearing from you soon!

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care
Hey Cameron,

We truly apologize for this concern! I did locate your case, but I can certainly take it over on your behalf. Please send me a private message along with your info for additional assistance. Looking forward to hearing from you soon!

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care
Sup Patsy, glad to see yer still keepin' it real down in the D!
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