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P0171 - I think PCV valve failed

1120 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  V0latyle
Hey folks I think my PCV valve finally failed because I put my finger over the hole and it immediately changed the engines idle. I ordered from Rock Auto a Valve Cover Gasket VS50807R (Fel-Pro) and a 25203036 Valve Cover (GM Genuine).

Is the vehicle OK to drive for the next few days like this? I have to do around a 40 minute round trip from work. I drove it today and it seemed fine but I know the engine was in a lean condition.
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Hey folks I think my PCV valve finally failed because I put my finger over the hole and it immediately changed the engines idle. I ordered from Rock Auto a Valve Cover Gasket VS50807R (Fel-Pro) and a 25203036 Valve Cover (GM Genuine).

Is the vehicle OK to drive for the next few days like this? I have to do around a 40 minute round trip from work. I drove it today and it seemed fine but I know the engine was in a lean condition.
My experience with P0171 was the car would stall at a red light if I wasn’t paying attention. That and worse gas mileage.

I heartily recommend XtremeRevolution’s fix kit. It’s not terribly difficult, just have to make sure you do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My experience with P0171 was the car would stall at a red light if I wasn’t paying attention. That and worse gas mileage.

I heartily recommend XtremeRevolution’s fix kit. It’s not terribly difficult, just have to make sure you do it right.
True enough stalling would be a PITA.... I was able to drive to and from work today no issue. RockAuto says I'll get parts in on Dec 1. I could drive to my dads and borrow his car if I pressed him. I got home and began trying to see where the leak was... I first tested the PCV valve and soon as I put my finger over the hole it changed the idle and when I let go it sucked from the outside a bit. I trust that is not normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My experience with P0171 was the car would stall at a red light if I wasn’t paying attention. That and worse gas mileage.

I heartily recommend XtremeRevolution’s fix kit. It’s not terribly difficult, just have to make sure you do it right.
I do have that PCV fix kit you mention but I never installed it got super intimidated by having to drill in the intake manifold. It's sitting in a drawer on my workbench.
 

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I do have that PCV fix kit you mention but I never installed it got super intimidated by having to drill in the intake manifold. It's sitting in a drawer on my workbench.
The new kits (3.4+) don't require any drilling; the only modification you have to do is cutting into the brake booster line. If you have an older kit, you might be able to get what you need in order to avoid having to drill anything - you'd just need some 5/16 and 5/8" hose and some spring clamps, as well as the little plug for the intake manifold check valve, and some glue dots to put the plug on a thin screwdriver so you can get it down in the hole and install it.

You might not have to replace the valve cover; with the engine running, put your thumb on the PCV connection on the intake manifold, then listen for a squeaking/chirping sound, and use another finger to feel the vent on the PCV diaphragm on the valve cover. If you feel suction at that vent, the valve cover must be replaced. If not, the PCV diaphragm is probably OK, but excessive vacuum caused by a blocked hose will rupture it.

I recommend installing the fix kit as soon as possible, otherwise you'll have to continue replacing valve covers until you replace your intake manifold...in which the check valve is going to eventually fail anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The new kits (3.4+) don't require any drilling; the only modification you have to do is cutting into the brake booster line. If you have an older kit, you might be able to get what you need in order to avoid having to drill anything - you'd just need some 5/16 and 5/8" hose and some spring clamps, as well as the little plug for the intake manifold check valve, and some glue dots to put the plug on a thin screwdriver so you can get it down in the hole and install it.

You might not have to replace the valve cover; with the engine running, put your thumb on the PCV connection on the intake manifold, then listen for a squeaking/chirping sound, and use another finger to feel the vent on the PCV diaphragm on the valve cover. If you feel suction at that vent, the valve cover must be replaced. If not, the PCV diaphragm is probably OK, but excessive vacuum caused by a blocked hose will rupture it.

I recommend installing the fix kit as soon as possible, otherwise you'll have to continue replacing valve covers until you replace your intake manifold...in which the check valve is going to eventually fail anyway.
I have a 3.4+ kit sitting on my workbench... last night I ended up taking off the turbos air intake line and looking for the "nipple valve"... it was pretty gungy in there but I wiped it out with some extra large Q-tips and Alcohol. I think I cleaned/fixed something because the next day the check engine light went away. Weird... Do you have any ideas to how to install the 3.4+ kit? It looks like it's all plastic components.
 

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I have a 3.4+ kit sitting on my workbench... last night I ended up taking off the turbos air intake line and looking for the "nipple valve"... it was pretty gungy in there but I wiped it out with some extra large Q-tips and Alcohol. I think I cleaned/fixed something because the next day the check engine light went away. Weird... Do you have any ideas to how to install the 3.4+ kit? It looks like it's all plastic components.

 

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Hey I know I've been absent from here for a while, but wanted to thank you for holding down the fort, being active, and helping everyone around here. Much appreciated.
 

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I have a 3.4+ kit sitting on my workbench... last night I ended up taking off the turbos air intake line and looking for the "nipple valve"... it was pretty gungy in there but I wiped it out with some extra large Q-tips and Alcohol. I think I cleaned/fixed something because the next day the check engine light went away. Weird... Do you have any ideas to how to install the 3.4+ kit? It looks like it's all plastic components.
It's really not difficult. The hardest part is cutting the hoses to get everything to fit where it's supposed to.

Start with the intake manifold.

Disconnect the evap purge line and solenoid; you'll be cutting and splicing into the line.

Disconnect the corrugated PCV hose that connects the intake manifold to the turbo inlet. You will also be cutting this.

Using some carburator cleaner, clean the check valve area of the intake manifold through the PCV port the best you can. Use a glue dot to affix the plug to a long thin screwdriver, then mix some epoxy and spread it all over the "pin" face of the plug. Install the plug, being careful to line it up properly, and press it into place.

Now, start working on the evap purge line. Carefully cut along the line to remove it from the intake manifold fitting and the check valve already on the line. Cut two pieces of 5/16 hose about 2.25" long, and replace the evap purge line with the two pieces of hose and the small Y fitting in the kit. The intake manifold connector should be on the "single" end of the Y, and the evap purge valve should be on the "angle" part of the "double" end of the Y.
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Use the short section of 5/16 hose from the small connection on the 5/8" elbow to the check valve (arrow pointing AWAY from the elbow, towards the evap purge connection), then use the remainder of the hose to connect the check valve to the "straight" part of the "double" end of the Y fitting.
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Reinstall the evap purge line, clipping the solenoid into place and connecting it to the manifold again. Use the included hose clamp and screw to secure the check valve line to the intake manifold.

Now, carefully cut the corrugated PCV hose and remove it from both fittings. Take note which end is the intake
manifold end, and which end is the turbo end. The short section of 5/8" hose will connect the elbow to the intake manifold, and the long section will connect the elbow to the turbo inlet.
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Remember to put spring clamps on your hoses. Vise-Grip pliers are very helpful for this. I recommend "clocking" them all to face the same direction so that replacing your check valve will be easier, should it become necessary.

Allow the epoxy to cure for several hours before you put the system under any boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's really not difficult. The hardest part is cutting the hoses to get everything to fit where it's supposed to.

Start with the intake manifold.

Disconnect the evap purge line and solenoid; you'll be cutting and splicing into the line.

Disconnect the corrugated PCV hose that connects the intake manifold to the turbo inlet. You will also be cutting this.

Using some carburator cleaner, clean the check valve area of the intake manifold through the PCV port the best you can. Use a glue dot to affix the plug to a long thin screwdriver, then mix some epoxy and spread it all over the "pin" face of the plug. Install the plug, being careful to line it up properly, and press it into place.

Now, start working on the evap purge line. Carefully cut along the line to remove it from the intake manifold fitting and the check valve already on the line. Cut two pieces of 5/16 hose about 2.25" long, and replace the evap purge line with the two pieces of hose and the small Y fitting in the kit. The intake manifold connector should be on the "single" end of the Y, and the evap purge valve should be on the "angle" part of the "double" end of the Y.
View attachment 300416

Use the short section of 5/16 hose from the small connection on the 5/8" elbow to the check valve (arrow pointing AWAY from the elbow, towards the evap purge connection), then use the remainder of the hose to connect the check valve to the "straight" part of the "double" end of the Y fitting.
View attachment 300417
View attachment 300418
Reinstall the evap purge line, clipping the solenoid into place and connecting it to the manifold again. Use the included hose clamp and screw to secure the check valve line to the intake manifold.

Now, carefully cut the corrugated PCV hose and remove it from both fittings. Take note which end is the intake
manifold end, and which end is the turbo end. The short section of 5/8" hose will connect the elbow to the intake manifold, and the long section will connect the elbow to the turbo inlet.
View attachment 300420
View attachment 300419
Remember to put spring clamps on your hoses. Vise-Grip pliers are very helpful for this. I recommend "clocking" them all to face the same direction so that replacing your check valve will be easier, should it become necessary.

Allow the epoxy to cure for several hours before you put the system under any boost.
Thanks for the reply. The code P0171 came back on today from work. I had cleaned around the Intake valve and I thought I "fixed" it. I spent some time reviewing the PCV 3.4 kit and it looks like a easy install. I already have two ends from a previously replaced Turbo air intake inlet tube and a spare purge valve subassembly. I could use the currently installed one so I don't destroy the new one. I am feeling confident I can install this but I'm not 100% sure its the solution but I hope it is. I'm off tommorow I'm just not sure how I'll be able to get the screw into place inside the inlet I am somewhat short (5'6") so I can't look down it very easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey I know I've been absent from here for a while, but wanted to thank you for holding down the fort, being active, and helping everyone around here. Much appreciated.
Thanks I own this kit just never installed it.... P0171 came back on today. The PCV valve on the engine cover sucks air if I placed my finger over the PCV valve... will installing your kit fix this or do I have to replace the cover also?
 

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Thanks I own this kit just never installed it.... P0171 came back on today. The PCV valve on the engine cover sucks air if I placed my finger over the PCV valve... will installing your kit fix this or do I have to replace the cover also?
Yes in your case
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey folks just an update ---I ended up getting a guinine OEM GM (Is Dorman better?) Valve cover from RockAuto and when I had some freetime on the weekend I swapped it out. I used around 71 in-lb's using a recommending bolt torque sequence. The lean condition immediately went away. I did check the intake manifold and cleaned down the turbo intake line area to look for the valve nipple. I was able to see the orange pressure valve so I suppose it's functional. I checked long and short fuel trim lines using a code reader and I was getting great numbers. Problem seems fixed for now. I did not install the intake manifold I received from RockAuto. Considering mailing it back but currently holding into it. It's still unopened in box alongside some fuel injector O-rings and gasket (I was not sure the Dorman came with a gasket preinstalled).
 

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Hey folks just an update ---I ended up getting a guinine OEM GM (Is Dorman better?) Valve cover from RockAuto and when I had some freetime on the weekend I swapped it out. I used around 71 in-lb's using a recommending bolt torque sequence. The lean condition immediately went away. I did check the intake manifold and cleaned down the turbo intake line area to look for the valve nipple. I was able to see the orange pressure valve so I suppose it's functional. I checked long and short fuel trim lines using a code reader and I was getting great numbers. Problem seems fixed for now. I did not install the intake manifold I received from RockAuto. Considering mailing it back but currently holding into it. It's still unopened in box alongside some fuel injector O-rings and gasket (I was not sure the Dorman came with a gasket preinstalled).
Sorry for the late reply. Even with a new valve cover, it's highly recommended that you install the bypass kit; the orange check valve in the intake manifold is notoriously prone to failure, and when it does, you may not notice anything until your PCV diaphragm fails again. By installing the plug that comes with the kit, you can avoid this, because the most you will ever have to do is (maybe) check the external check valve every 50k miles or so to ensure it's functioning normally.

Although...it will probably still be necessary to replace your valve cover every 75k, depending on drive style; the PCV passage on the "front" of the block (exhaust side) runs right between exhaust ports, so the gasket on that side tends to fail, causing a PCV leak and oil loss onto the exhaust manifold.
 
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