[V0latyle]

I do have that PCV fix kit you mention but I never installed it got super intimidated by having to drill in the intake manifold. It's sitting in a drawer on my workbench.

The new kits (3.4+) don't require any drilling; the only modification you have to do is cutting into the brake booster line. If you have an older kit, you might be able to get what you need in order to avoid having to drill anything - you'd just need some 5/16 and 5/8" hose and some spring clamps, as well as the little plug for the intake manifold check valve, and some glue dots to put the plug on a thin screwdriver so you can get it down in the hole and install it.

You might not have to replace the valve cover; with the engine running, put your thumb on the PCV connection on the intake manifold, then listen for a squeaking/chirping sound, and use another finger to feel the vent on the PCV diaphragm on the valve cover. If you feel suction at that vent, the valve cover must be replaced. If not, the PCV diaphragm is probably OK, but excessive vacuum caused by a blocked hose will rupture it.

I recommend installing the fix kit as soon as possible, otherwise you'll have to continue replacing valve covers until you replace your intake manifold...in which the check valve is going to eventually fail anyway.

 

[V0latyle]

I have a 3.4+ kit sitting on my workbench... last night I ended up taking off the turbos air intake line and looking for the "nipple valve"... it was pretty gungy in there but I wiped it out with some extra large Q-tips and Alcohol. I think I cleaned/fixed something because the next day the check engine light went away. Weird... Do you have any ideas to how to install the 3.4+ kit? It looks like it's all plastic components.

It's really not difficult. The hardest part is cutting the hoses to get everything to fit where it's supposed to.

Start with the intake manifold.

Disconnect the evap purge line and solenoid; you'll be cutting and splicing into the line.

Disconnect the corrugated PCV hose that connects the intake manifold to the turbo inlet. You will also be cutting this.

Using some carburator cleaner, clean the check valve area of the intake manifold through the PCV port the best you can. Use a glue dot to affix the plug to a long thin screwdriver, then mix some epoxy and spread it all over the "pin" face of the plug. Install the plug, being careful to line it up properly, and press it into place.

Now, start working on the evap purge line. Carefully cut along the line to remove it from the intake manifold fitting and the check valve already on the line. Cut two pieces of 5/16 hose about 2.25" long, and replace the evap purge line with the two pieces of hose and the small Y fitting in the kit. The intake manifold connector should be on the "single" end of the Y, and the evap purge valve should be on the "angle" part of the "double" end of the Y.

Use the short section of 5/16 hose from the small connection on the 5/8" elbow to the check valve (arrow pointing AWAY from the elbow, towards the evap purge connection), then use the remainder of the hose to connect the check valve to the "straight" part of the "double" end of the Y fitting.

Reinstall the evap purge line, clipping the solenoid into place and connecting it to the manifold again. Use the included hose clamp and screw to secure the check valve line to the intake manifold.

Now, carefully cut the corrugated PCV hose and remove it from both fittings. Take note which end is the intake
manifold end, and which end is the turbo end. The short section of 5/8" hose will connect the elbow to the intake manifold, and the long section will connect the elbow to the turbo inlet.

Remember to put spring clamps on your hoses. Vise-Grip pliers are very helpful for this. I recommend "clocking" them all to face the same direction so that replacing your check valve will be easier, should it become necessary.

Allow the epoxy to cure for several hours before you put the system under any boost.

 

[V0latyle]

Hey folks just an update ---I ended up getting a guinine OEM GM (Is Dorman better?) Valve cover from RockAuto and when I had some freetime on the weekend I swapped it out. I used around 71 in-lb's using a recommending bolt torque sequence. The lean condition immediately went away. I did check the intake manifold and cleaned down the turbo intake line area to look for the valve nipple. I was able to see the orange pressure valve so I suppose it's functional. I checked long and short fuel trim lines using a code reader and I was getting great numbers. Problem seems fixed for now. I did not install the intake manifold I received from RockAuto. Considering mailing it back but currently holding into it. It's still unopened in box alongside some fuel injector O-rings and gasket (I was not sure the Dorman came with a gasket preinstalled).

Sorry for the late reply. Even with a new valve cover, it's highly recommended that you install the bypass kit; the orange check valve in the intake manifold is notoriously prone to failure, and when it does, you may not notice anything until your PCV diaphragm fails again. By installing the plug that comes with the kit, you can avoid this, because the most you will ever have to do is (maybe) check the external check valve every 50k miles or so to ensure it's functioning normally.

Although...it will probably still be necessary to replace your valve cover every 75k, depending on drive style; the PCV passage on the "front" of the block (exhaust side) runs right between exhaust ports, so the gasket on that side tends to fail, causing a PCV leak and oil loss onto the exhaust manifold.