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P0299 and 0420, boost leaks or broken puck and gate??

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This is my 1st car and I'm 23 with no parents or friends who can help.

hello, 1.4 Cruze ltz 2011 fixed turbo once already. looking for help
it has overheated due to engine outlet before , I fixed, loses maybe a few table spoons if coolant a week now. (not alot at all seriously)

only codes, 0299, 0420.

i even tried adding boost manually by tightening actuator arm. nothing

my actuator arm moves tight, that part seems ok, I can feel the spring .

what's the possibility my wastegate puck is missing? the puck pin that is held by the actuator arm, when disconnected, can spin around towards driver side and about 280 degrees of spin is available. it doesn't spin fully around but more that I assume it should? shouldn't the puck/gate be hitting the inside of the turbo?

symptoms;
refuses to go over 100km/h on highway even throttle to floor
can't climb an incline and keep speed, constant drop to 45km/h range
car won't go over 77km on highway on ramp, and takes a other 2 KM to get to 100km/h

Yes, it's this bad.

New; maf, new o2 upstream, new oil turbo lines, new/used turbo, coolant lines, air intake hose, PCV lines, turbo boost sensor.

PCV v.3 fix is on! nipple on PCV was sealed, watched video, checked , it's sealed and the fix is working there.

what do I do ? please help. I try to stay up to date on fixes.

I know I need a catalytic converter , but does that cause 0 acceleration on highway and uphill ?
do I need to replace both to fix this problem?

the car is undrivable. the car is going to get us killed trying to accelerate on highway.

I just want to know what to do.
don't worry about my feelings just give it to me straight.
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Plugged up cat will definitely cause the loss of power and acceleration.

Did you replace the turbo before? If so, did you use a GM replacement or Chinese knockoff?
 
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Ive got a funny thought. I read on here a while back about a member who had the same symptoms as you do, and to test if the cat was truly bad, he pulled the upstream O2 sensor (the one right under the turbo) and went and drove the car, which to his surprise ran much better (but obviously louder and CELs everywhere!) Proved to him he needed a new cat. Granted thats the total red neck backyard DIY guy way of doing things, but...

Considering how much a cat is, I would at least take the car to a shop and have them do some tests to make sure it is that before you go spend a LOT of money on something you dont need.

Also, that used turbo may not have been a good one after all. There is that, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I removed 02 sensor from upstream and went for a drive. I protected the engine from the heat.
I noticed more of a response low end , but absolutely no change uphill/on the highway

What's next? Since the cat doesn't seem to have back pressure , is it the turbo?
 

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This is my 1st car and I'm 23 with no parents or friends who can help.

hello, 1.4 Cruze ltz 2011 fixed turbo once already. looking for help
it has overheated due to engine outlet before , I fixed, loses maybe a few table spoons if coolant a week now. (not alot at all seriously)

only codes, 0299, 0420.

i even tried adding boost manually by tightening actuator arm. nothing

my actuator arm moves tight, that part seems ok, I can feel the spring .

what's the possibility my wastegate puck is missing? the puck pin that is held by the actuator arm, when disconnected, can spin around towards driver side and about 280 degrees of spin is available. it doesn't spin fully around but more that I assume it should? shouldn't the puck/gate be hitting the inside of the turbo?

symptoms;
refuses to go over 100km/h on highway even throttle to floor
can't climb an incline and keep speed, constant drop to 45km/h range
car won't go over 77km on highway on ramp, and takes a other 2 KM to get to 100km/h

Yes, it's this bad.

New; maf, new o2 upstream, new oil turbo lines, new/used turbo, coolant lines, air intake hose, PCV lines, turbo boost sensor.

PCV v.3 fix is on! nipple on PCV was sealed, watched video, checked , it's sealed and the fix is working there.

what do I do ? please help. I try to stay up to date on fixes.

I know I need a catalytic converter , but does that cause 0 acceleration on highway and uphill ?
do I need to replace both to fix this problem?

the car is undrivable. the car is going to get us killed trying to accelerate on highway.

I just want to know what to do.
don't worry about my feelings just give it to me straight.
I had a 23 1.4 with 420 problem for 2 years replaced all you did and more except turbo. At 123k exhaust manifold broke and head gasket blew. I sold it for 1500 and bought a Honda. Good chance it's your computer
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update,

smashed out my catalytic converter with a big drill and found a junkyard turbo off another Trax for 100$
Did all the work myself ,

Got all my power back. Been great all week.
Just a cat code but i don't care because there's massive holes in it now and she can breathe ;)

you people saying buy new parts are a cancer to the car community.

buy dealership parts? LMFAO

peace and love yall
 

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Update,

smashed out my catalytic converter with a big drill and found a junkyard turbo off another Trax for 100$
Did all the work myself ,

Got all my power back. Been great all week.
Just a cat code but i don't care because there's massive holes in it now and she can breathe ;)

you people saying buy new parts are a cancer to the car community.

buy dealership parts? LMFAO

peace and love yall
"I see alot of issues with aftermarket cats so I want to buy right and avoid twice. "

and you people saying you want quality parts then flame others for recommending them are a cancer to this forum. You have a check engine light which wouldn't happen with an OEM proper Cat. But go on. Some of us have to get emission teseting yearly and also don't want a light staring us in the face and polluting the environment more.

but peace and love

😗
 

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Oh well, we tried to help you repair it properly. You'd rather rig it. Thats your choice.
 
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