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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '12 fired the p0299 code about 200 miles ago; car has 111,500 miles so out of warranty. I checked waste gate pivot arm and there is hardly any play so I cleared the code and it came back today.

I would like your thoughts on what else to check before I drop $500 on a new turbo. There is NO noticeable change in the power or drive ability at this time; everything sounds/feels fine.

-Checked wastegate pivot arm and barely any play.
-Checked circlip on pivot arm, it was there.
-Checked PCV system and check ball is in intake and I couldn't suck air through the corrugated hose that goes to turbo inlet which should mean its fine.
-Installed updated oil supply about a year ago.

Ideas:
Anyway to check the boost actuator using an ohm meter?

My thought is to remove the o2 Sensor and stick a camera in there to see if there are any cracks inside the turbo.

You guys have any other thoughts on what I can do to make sure it is in fact the turbo that is causing the problem? I have a Centech code reader that can show live data, but not sure what to check or look for.

Thank you!
 

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Is this still the first turbo?

Suspects in order:
-Boost leak (stock seals and tubing were a joke)
-Worn turbo (Usually will smoke badly)
-Boost Solenoid (Fairly robust, wiring would fail first)
-BPV not holding (boost line from manifold damaged?)

My money would be on the boost leak.
https://zzperformance.com/sonic/boost-leak-tester
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Mark, very helpful info.


Yes this the original/first turbo on the car. No smoke however it has felt a little down on power (especially in hot weather when timing is retarded). Will check the boost line from manifold and consider buying the boost level tool.


Anyone have thoughts on Cardone vs Dorman for a replacement turbo? Cardone is about $30 more ($416 thru rock auto parts) and leaning towards that one.
 

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Cardone looks way more professional from their online presence.

Links for both?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Looks like the turbo is cracked, but the link below says the crack IS NORMAL and the cause of the P0299 is something else. If you look at the photos in the link, my crack is worse. I would hate to spend $500 on something that is not the problem. Your guys thoughts on this bulletin?
http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=7695

Car still drives okay, maybe lacking a little power.

I’m leaning towards the Cardone versus Dorman ($426 vs $390).
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=2N115&p=rock&jsn=8

Dorman from Parts Geek
https://www.partsgeek.com/thsjkfv-c...opZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Chevrolet+Turbocharger

Pics of crack
 

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Just got your e-mail. Thanks for that. Figured I'd explain here for anyone else's benefit.

The check valve in the intake manifold tends to leak if it does last that long, which effectively creates a similar issue. The P0299 is an underboost code. It means that for a given engine load, which should be spinning the exhaust turbine, the engine is not seeing the expected boost pressure. This can have a number of root causes. The intake manifold check valve leaking is one of them, which leaks boost. External boost leaks will also cause this. An excessively large crack in the wastegate housing of the turbo could also contribute to it. Note that these are all contributing factors and may not be sole individual factors. A crack in the wastegate housing, which is extremely common, may contribute to a boost leak but may not be enough on its own to cause an underboost condition unless there are other contributing factors, until it gets big enough.

The factory allows some variance/tolerance for these issues to exist without throwing the code. I would start with the intake manifold check valve, then start looking for boost leaks. Here's a video I made on this topic:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heQYgmcGnHI&t=

There is a little rubber vacuum hose on the passenger side underneath the intake manifold that often cracks/tears and produces a substantial boost leak. Be sure to check that as well.

Only after you've addressed all potential boost leak points would I consider replacing the turbo.
 

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Looks like the turbo is cracked, but the link below says the crack IS NORMAL and the cause of the P0299 is something else. If you look at the photos in the link, my crack is worse. I would hate to spend $500 on something that is not the problem. Your guys thoughts on this bulletin?
Misdiagnosis of Returned Turbochargers | TechLink

Car still drives okay, maybe lacking a little power.

I’m leaning towards the Cardone versus Dorman ($426 vs $390).
Product Detail

Dorman from Parts Geek
https://www.partsgeek.com/thsjkfv-c...opZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Chevrolet+Turbocharger

Pics of crack
I would get a GM one to be completely honest. This is not something I would want to do a second time and the cost between them IMO isn't worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Xtreme, just ordered your PCV kit. Regarding the vacuum hose underneath intake manifold, is that the small hose that is attached the the larger PCV hose that runs from the intake to the Turbo?

I took off the large hose at the check valve and could blow air through it, but it "mostly" was sealed when I tried to suck air through it (i.e. from turbo to intake manifold).
 

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Thanks Xtreme, just ordered your PCV kit. Regarding the vacuum hose underneath intake manifold, is that the small hose that is attached the the larger PCV hose that runs from the intake to the Turbo?

I took off the large hose at the check valve and could blow air through it, but it "mostly" was sealed when I tried to suck air through it (i.e. from turbo to intake manifold).
Yeah it's a small rubber hose that connects into a plastic one that runs next to the large corrugated one.

You shouldn't be able to suck air back through at all. It should be completely sealed.
 

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My '12 fired the p0299 code about 200 miles ago; car has 111,500 miles so out of warranty. I checked waste gate pivot arm and there is hardly any play so I cleared the code and it came back today.

I would like your thoughts on what else to check before I drop $500 on a new turbo. There is NO noticeable change in the power or drive ability at this time; everything sounds/feels fine.

-Checked wastegate pivot arm and barely any play.
-Checked circlip on pivot arm, it was there.
-Checked PCV system and check ball is in intake and I couldn't suck air through the corrugated hose that goes to turbo inlet which should mean its fine.
-Installed updated oil supply about a year ago.

Ideas:
Anyway to check the boost actuator using an ohm meter?

My thought is to remove the o2 Sensor and stick a camera in there to see if there are any cracks inside the turbo.

You guys have any other thoughts on what I can do to make sure it is in fact the turbo that is causing the problem? I have a Centech code reader that can show live data, but not sure what to check or look for.

Thank you!
So, I have the code p0299 now. I have 147k miles. I went ahead and paid my dealer 150 dollars to diagnose. They told me I need a new Turbo and while I am at it, there is an oil cooler leak, which I see is quite common. I was wondering, @mbeers, if you did indeed replace your turbo, or have you identified a somewhat less costly problem? Thanks
 
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