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P06DC and P24A5 with Check Engine Light

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Check Engine Light came on this afternoon. Called OnStar and they sent me an email with P06DC and P24A5.

About three weeks ago OnStar told me that I had P06DC but had no check engine light. Same thing about six months ago.

I‘m bone stock and 106,000 miles on the odometer.

Happened to be near my dealership so I stopped in. But my service advisor was off today. I went on my way and the check engine light cleared after about 50 miles.

Searched here and google. But could not find any correlation with those codes.

Anyone have any ideas?
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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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I see the P06DC being related to "Oil Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Circuit High Voltage" and P24A5 being EGR Cooler Bypass Stuck...whether or not that applies to our cars...who knows!

@Snipesy
 
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At that mileage I’d probably just replace the entire oil pump. Especially given it’s problematic history. But as long as the oil pressure looks good I don’t see an immediate concern.



For the EGR cooler.

1. Check vacuum pressure engine running.
2. Check for coolant leaks around EGR cooler.
3. Clean intake if it’s insanely bad.

If you don’t find a problem with the above 3 steps then sadly it’s not really clear where the problem is
  • The Vacuum Control may be cracked/failed
  • The diaphragm actuator thing may have failed
  • The EGR cooler itself may be plugged. It has a bunch of channels.

Usually you just replace the entire EGR assembly but that is an expensive part. You can save a lot of money if you can narrow it down. As long as there is no coolant leaking out then you can assume the metal assembly is good.
 

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Here are some part numbers.

The actual EGR cooler.12644798
Really no reason to replace that. Soak it in some dish soap. Should be good to go. Just don’t ruin the seal.
If you do find coolant in intake good chance it’s from that part.

The cover for said cooler: 12656015.
The electronic vacuum actuator thing: 55566051
The diaphragm valve thingy: 12647007

As for seals you are just SOL. Permatex ultra red if you can’t salvage old ones. Don’t use the copper / exhaust stuff.
 

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This might come in handy.

Also I have had the P06DC code for quite some time. I don't know for sure but I am guessing since it can't control the oil pressure it just runs full pressure at all RPMs. I assumed the valve in question dumps some of the oil back to tank to reduce oil pressure and load on the engine for efficiencies sake.
 

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If it was my car I'd look into the p06dc since it has a a stored history and has apparently threw the code after 3 failures.

I do believe it is a generic code used on cars with this oil flow valve.

I'm guessing that solenoid typically has a max of 10 ohms of resistance at the highest temperature it is rated to. It possibly could be going a few ohms over causing it to drop more voltage than the ECM wants to see. Thus the over voltage code.

I'm also guessing that the voltage/current is directly proportional to oil flow so it probably won't shut the car off to protect the engine. Low voltage/current code might be a different story.

It doesn't control pressure just how much oil is flowing depending on various engine conditions.

I'd ohm it at ambient and after the engine is at operating temperature. Be nice if we knew what the specs are.

It's not a costly part.

 

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Forgot to ask. Given its mileage has the timing belt been done prior to the voltage code? It looks like this thing is located behind the crank pulley and could possibly get damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Forgot to ask. Given its mileage has the timing belt been done prior to the voltage code? It looks like this thing is located behind the crank pulley and could possibly get damaged.
Great question. Yes, timing belt, fuel pump and associated were changed almost a year ago. These codes after the TB change.
 
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