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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, first post.

I purchased a 2011 eco manual trans car with ~100k early this year to commute in. Over the past 6 months I have put about 10k on with no real problems other than a slight pulsation of torque under load (never really figured that one out).

Anyway, last week I got a plethora of DTCs starting with lean left bank (don't remember number). Some searching led me to a faulty PCV valve. I replaced the valve cover, and also found that the check valve in the IM was missing, so I replaced that as well.

Last night after getting everything back together, I have
P098: IAT sensor 2 circuit high voltage
P0236: Turbocharger boost sensor performance
P0237: Turbocharger boost sensor circuit low voltage
P2227: Barometric pressure sensor performance

pins 2, 3 on the IAT connector both have 4.5V, which seems normal to me, and the live data shows ~80F.
Barometric and MAP both show ~28 inHg

What am I missing?
This is my first attempt to repair an OBDII vehicle. Your help is appreciated. I'm starting to pull my hair out here.:$#angry:
 

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Is it possible that I fried the ECU by not disconnecting the battery during this work? I didn't think that there would be any voltage on these wires with the key off
 

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Did you replace the sensors as well?
I know that after replacing barometric pressure sensor, at least, there is a learning process that has to be done through diagnostic software.
 

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Since it's an "older" car, there is a condition called fretting. Basically there's microscopic corrosion on the terminals of connectors. This makes ECU readings off the charts and pop a code. I remember when the G6 came out we had that problem on the BCM connectors. There was a TSB about this. The solution GM came up with was to disconnect the connector, clean "gently" the terminals with a soft bristle brush, add some dielectric grease and reconnect the whole thing. It worked wonder. So maybe there was fretting when you had to disconnect those sensors. Have a look with a magnifying glass, it looks like the terminals have been coated with salt. Maybe someone here can print/give out the TSB#.

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P0098 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 2. "ECM detects that the IAT sensor 2 signal is greater than 390 Hz, warmer that 150C (302F), for more than 5 seconds.

It looks to be part of the MAF.

All I can suggest is make sure everything is ok, the connector is good, etc. Otherwise, replace that multi-function sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update:

The IM came without the barometer installed. Since I had foolishly removed the sensors from the old manifold beforehand, I did not know which was the Baro and which was the MAP. So, after a few iterations of trial and error, I got the sensors installed in the correct locations, and this seems to have solved the problem. Long story short, the ECU does not like the sensors to be reversed!

Hopefully this was the only problem
 

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Interesting. The way the book make it sound, this couldn't be anything like sensor in the wrong place. Nor would I expect the connectors to be exchangeable between the two sensor.

But can't argue with success!
 

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bbelster, what is the part number of the new induction manifold?Is it new?
I need to replace mine as well, along with the valve cover.
How do we know that the new parts won't brake in the future?
 

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How do we know that the new parts won't brake in the future?
If it has been updated than they probably fixed the initial flaw or at least improved on it. If parts worked forever, we'd be driving around in Model Ts.

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I agree that parts won't work forever. But design flaw is one thing and normal wear over time is another.
Especially if i have to pay over $1800 for these parts, i want to make sure that they will last as expected
 

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I agree with you on that.

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