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You won't have to live with it. You'll have to fix it. If you live in an emissions County. If not then live with it.

Most often it's the convertor. And oem is the only way to fix it. So don't bother wasting your money on aftermarket or refurbished.

Could be o2 sensors. Good idea to replace them both anyways.

I had a cavalier that would trigger the code. For whatever reason I never figured out. The motor was diluting the oil with gas. A fresh oil change took care of the light for a few weeks.
 

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Sounds like the seller played you good. They reset the OBD codes that are all the emissions stuff that sometimes takes a good hour of driving for the ECU to set "ready"codes and report that everything is functioning properly.

The emissions testing places look for this - if you show up with fresh codes reset and the ECU hasn't had enough driving time for everything to run the self diagnostics, the OBD will report to the emissions people that it isn't ready to say everything is good and well. The emissions people will tell you to come back next week.

My cousin has this issue with a 2003 Suburban that the LS V-8 has a wicked piston slap when it's cold. After a while the knock sensor eventually throws a CEL that never goes away. To pass emissions for registration he has to warm the engine up, reset the codes, drive it for about an hour, and then go straight to the emissions check station to get it read as everything being good. Within a day or two of cold starts the piston slap will trigger another CEL, and he leaves it alone until the next emissions check comes around.

Whomever sold you the car probably reset everything and sold the car to you knowing the CEL was going to come back.
 

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Sounds like the seller played you good. They reset the OBD codes that are all the emissions stuff that sometimes takes a good hour of driving for the ECU to set "ready"codes and report that everything is functioning properly.

The emissions testing places look for this - if you show up with fresh codes reset and the ECU hasn't had enough driving time for everything to run the self diagnostics, the OBD will report to the emissions people that it isn't ready to say everything is good and well. The emissions people will tell you to come back next week.

My cousin has this issue with a 2003 Suburban that the LS V-8 has a wicked piston slap when it's cold. After a while the knock sensor eventually throws a CEL that never goes away. To pass emissions for registration he has to warm the engine up, reset the codes, drive it for about an hour, and then go straight to the emissions check station to get it read as everything being good. Within a day or two of cold starts the piston slap will trigger another CEL, and he leaves it alone until the next emissions check comes around.

Whomever sold you the car probably reset everything and sold the car to you knowing the CEL was going to come back.
That’s why I always bring a scan tool and check the last time codes were reset and if the monitors are ready.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Just bought a used 2015 Cruze LS with a 6 speed and the 1.8. 79,000 miles. Got a good price for it too. Everything looked good, even took it to my mechanic before buying it. Drove it off the lot and down the street and CE light popped on. P420 catalytic converter efficiency. Took it in and cleared the code today. What I’m reading is that this could literally be anything from catalytic converter to intake manifold problem. Is this generally a feature I’m going to have to live with? Love the car other than this
ed1faunce
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 

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I'd like to know what tool is used to check last time codes were reset?

They all give you emissions readiness. I don't know about last reset. If the emissions isn't ready. That's your sign it was recently reset. Or possibly a battery swap.
 

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I'd like to know what tool is used to check last time codes were reset?

They all give you emissions readiness. I don't know about last reset. If the emissions isn't ready. That's your sign it was recently reset. Or possibly a battery swap.
I’d have to check my model but I have a Bosch scanner. Cost around $350 years ago. Checks Monitor readiness, real time data, last date of code reset, bidirectional function to actuate injector, coils, relays and certain other things. Can also read and reset transmission, ABS and SRS codes. Not every car is supported with all features but the scanner overall is great to have for what it cost me.

but you are correct of course. Monitors not being ready is a good sign of a code reset, battery died, or battery replaced.
 
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