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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
!00% more brightness to me is twice as bright, but any review I have read, more like 25%, any honest experience with these on this board?

Second factor is life, some claimed only 2-3 months, not very good for a pair of bulbs where my local Carquest store wants $49.99 a pair. Home Depot, 40 miles from me is a more reasonable $32,50 a pair, average ebay price is around 36 bucks.

Already getting at least 25% extra light with Sylvania Xtravisiions, and last at least 8 years, 12 bucks a pair at my Fleet Farm store. They also have Siverstar Ultras at $44.95 a pair with 50% extra brightness, bit their life is very short, would be lucky to get a year out of them.

What happened to honesty in advertizing? And specifications. Lumens is one, have a meter for this.
 

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A relay harness will make the bulbs brighter. I use plain old Philips 9008/H13 bulbs with a relay harness. Bulb life is about a year.

Spend the money once on a harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Major problem is the voltage regulator, not really seeing that much voltage drop across the stock harness. In the subzero winter months like right now, getting 15.1 volts. In the summer with all the leaves on the trees, no moon, and hot, only getting 13.3 volts.

Guess I will stick with my Xtravisions. Or use my motorhome, that has the old four headlamp system, and all four are on. Six bucks a head lamp, and includes a brand new lens. Do have both brights with dim, and brights only. use just just the brights with dims, completely interchangeable. So if a dim goes out, can switch them to get more life. Bright only doesn't care about the dim.

Still feel this automotive stuff is going backwards.
 

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I looked at the phillips bulbs at the local farm & fleet when I was going to buy my Xtravisions, could not justify the extra cost. I paid $12 a bulb at walmart for the sylvania Xtravisions, Farm & fleet wanted $39.99 for the pair of philips bulbs.

Just like on my previous car the Xtravisions made a huge improvement in the headlights. Strangely I no longer get brighted by 1 out of 20 cars either.
 

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I looked at the phillips bulbs at the local farm & fleet when I was going to buy my Xtravisions, could not justify the extra cost. I paid $12 a bulb at walmart for the sylvania Xtravisions, Farm & fleet wanted $39.99 for the pair of philips bulbs.

Just like on my previous car the Xtravisions made a huge improvement in the headlights. Strangely I no longer get brighted by 1 out of 20 cars either.
i was gonna give you grief over your prices, but the xtreme powers are $45+ on amazon.com, back in Oct i paid $33 on amazon.com...quite the price increase.
 

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Major problem is the voltage regulator, not really seeing that much voltage drop across the stock harness. In the subzero winter months like right now, getting 15.1 volts. In the summer with all the leaves on the trees, no moon, and hot, only getting 13.3 volts.
Is that at the headlight connector, or on the dashboard readout? IIRC we saw 0.4 volt drop at the end of the factory headlight harness. That's worth a few hundred lumens in light output. That's per Daniel Stern, who knows a thing or two about lighting: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Most positive point in a vehicle's electrical system, is the positive terminal of the battery. And that's not the connector to the battery, the battery terminal itself. Same with the negative battery terminal, but the most negative point.

With the engine at idle, everything off except the head lamps, measured the voltage drop between the positive terminal of the battery and the lead going into the dim lamp socket. recall I read something like 0.07 volts. This includes the connector to the battery, to the fuse box, through the fuse, and the drop across the relay contacts.

Then the same from the negative terminal to the wire leading into the common wire lamp socket, that was around 0.04V. So the total drop was around 0.11 volts, not bad.

Voltage regulator has a negative temperature coefficient, about -13mv/*C. So the warmer the batter gets, the lower the battery voltage.

Living in an area with a temperature range of -35 to 42*C, that a temperature change of 77*C that translates to a battery voltage change of over a volt. This makes the largest change in light output. Battery voltage should be 14.5 volts at 25*C. Heat of the engine under the hood does add to the ambient temperature for even lower readings.

I did look at a package of Siverstar Ultras compared to Xtravisions. Bulb size, position of the filament, number of turns, and specified wattage was all the same. Only pronounced difference I noted was the Ultras had a slight blue tint. Does this add another 20% to the brightness? Then Phillips with 70% more brightness?

Does a tiny shop vacuum with a hair thin line cord running at 120VAC really output 3.3 HP? Kind of question these specifications.
 

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So your car doesn't have a significant voltage drop. Good.

That blue tint hurts light output by filtering out the other colors except blue. They work well on dry roads, and poorly during inclement weather. Steer clear of blue-tinted bulbs.
 

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Those blue tint bulbs will also destroy your H13 connector. I had the honor of having to replace mine, after just 5 months of use.
Another reason to get a separate headlight harness: The female H13 connector, the one that's attached to the factory headlight harness, has an issue of going bad. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. That's a symptom of the H13 bulb, not a Chevy/GM/Ford/Chrysler issue. When my drivers side female connector on my harness went out, soldering on another connector was a simple issue since the whole headlight harness could come out of the car. That's much harder to do if the factory connector goes out, as they occasionally do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That connector where you push the bulb into? Has female terminals on the inside and if you wiggle the bulb can spread the tabs for a poor connection. Has to be pushed straight in.

Didn't take one apart of yet, but if those female spades use an insulation piercing tab, that only makes contact to a couple of strands or can even be bent upon insertion, could be the problem also. Since that piecing tab is of a different material than the copper wire, a dissimilar metal problem and corrosion will occur causing problems.

Stripped insulation with folding tabs provide a far superior connection, but still a contact type of connection. Soldering is the best for molecular contact.

Just saying how they are made is the problem.

Ha, been saying this for the last fifty some years, the best connector is no connector. Only reason why they are used is for convenience. But rather inconvenient when they go bad and even hazardous.

When the buck was backed with gold in this country, gold being the only non-corrosive element known to us and fixed at 35 bucks an ounce, we could gold plate terminals for a lifetime of protection.

But when the buck was no longer backed with gold, the buck became worthless, and the price of gold skyrocketed. So now we have all kinds of problems and a **** of a lot inflation to boot. Government needs more bucks, just switch on the printing presses kind of thing.
 
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