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I am looking for suggestions. This is the one I am pretty in to... Pioneer TS-SWX251 10" Flat Subwoofer with Enclosure 800 Watts: Car Electronics

I think this is perfect for my needs, and this is what I need guidance with.
Stock radio - what connectors, parts, wires and such do I need to make this work?
What are the best mounting places for the box and amp?
Can I make the box removable with some sort of quick disconnect?
What is the best amp to maximize this speaker/box without needing a capacitor or HD battery (although I'd rather do just the battery if needed).

Any advice would be great. A parts list would be the best, or point me in the right direction.
What exactly are your needs? Where you mount this sub will significantly affect how it will sound. Where you mount the amp will significantly affect which amp you can mount. You should determine what you buy after you determine what your needs are; not before.

At such a low power draw, you won't even need 8 gauge wire. A capacitor is useless in any car audio environment, and heavy duty deep cycle batteries are reserved for systems providing in excess of 1000W RMS (not including efficiency loss).

I do not have any equipment.
I am settled on buying this box, I just need help pairing it with the right amp.
A good system revolves around all of the components being put together as a set. The sub and box you chose is the weakest link. Why exactly you settled on that specifically is beyond me.

Oh man.. I do not want to insult you in any way but that is a really bad buy. I have an MTX RT80 that I am pretty sure would blow it just hooked up on one channel.

Ok, firstly I am assuming you want a small box, secondly I am assuming you also own a Chevy Cruze, and then thirdly I am assuming you want to save some cash and still have a little bump in the trunk? If I am incorrect on either of these please let us know because it will only help us inform you and help you better. I know XR is probably going to chime in when he sees this thread so hopefully he wont take a switch to me because I may be suggesting something that will cause him to gnash his teeth but in the interest of providing you a more affordable and even better sounding solution I hope he can forgive me.

1. Rockford Fosgate R2D4-10 (R2D410) 10" Dual 4 ohm Prime Subwoofer $54.03
2. Ground Shaker CP 1 10-GRAY (cp110-gray) 10" Single Sealed Compact $49.95

I know you are thinking, hey what about shipping??? Well when I plugged in both items the shipping came out to zero so the total for that subwoofer and a far superior box (although I know XR hates them and will label it as garbage) is $103.98.

Sonix really is pretty top notch on most audio equipment when you look at those factors.

I am pretty certain you could also find those items on amazon and the prices would be somewhat comparable (if that is the way you have to purchase it for some reason). That is 45 dollars you could actually spend on a bigger or better subwoofer/box combo or apply to your amp purchase.

Now, XR, my apologies. I know you will most likely have a few better options based on your experience. I will certainly defer to your knowledge on any matter that is subwoofer or box related. I'm just using this data above to demonstrate to our friend here to look at some different options before getting too settled on the aforementioned pioneer box.

:eek:ccasion14: Cheers!!!
I label these things as garbage because they are. You get what you pay for. I charge $185 for a single sub box and $215 for a dual sub box plus shipping (which is very cheap for a custom box) for my top end boxes, and here, you get a sub and box for about half that. They will produce a rumble that resembles bass and will do so with limited reliability, both structurally and electrically.

I can't say there are better options because at that price point, there simply aren't. You provided some great options and I have nothing to bash here, nor would I as you're just trying to help and doing a great job at it. Unfortunately, not to sound like a snob, I don't get into this "very low budget" sector of car audio. In my opinion, you either do it right, or you don't do it at all until you have the funds. If you can't afford quality, you go with a smaller sub. I have a compact box design in progess with a high-excursion 8" SQ sub for those who want some SQ bass on a budget, but the sub and amp will still run $250 combined, plus another $120 for the box and whatever shipping comes out to. I've posted the kit here before. You'd expect to pay around $400 shipped for the sub, box, and amp, leaving you needing only to buy wiring. However, that's about double what the OP will be spending with a kit like this.

15,763 Posts
Ok. Good input.
What about alpine. Found a 500 watt I think its e series and matching 500 watt alpine mono amp? Of course I sacrifice some space but shouldn't be too much with only one.
Alpine makes much better equipment across the board. Their amplifiers are great, their head units are excellent, and their subwoofers are generally decent.

What I really want to know is: what are you looking for? What are your goals? How much output do you expect to achieve? There are options out there for this kind of stuff that you may not be considering that would serve your purposes much better. For example, if you value sound quality and reliability over maximum power, I would be strongly recommending an 8" Type-R sub over a 10" or 12" Type-E.

15,763 Posts
As far as goals are concerned, nice hitting, responsive, smooth and low bass. I have had 8, 10, 12" woofers and I love the response and low bass created by the 10".
I want it to bang pretty hard, but not like when I had 2x12" MTX subs in my GTP. I listen to dubstep, rap/hip hop and rock as well. I am also willing to dynamat the trunk for better quality.

This is what I've been looking at:
Alpine SWE-10S4 Type-E 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at

Alpine MRP-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at

From some of the reading I have done, these two should pair well and stay in my price range.

I don't want to go crazy on price. The Type R equivalent in the 10" is almost $200 more. Although I have heard Type Rs before and love them.
Now we're getting somewhere. I will tell you straight up that sound quality is a science, not a preference. Anyone who tells you otherwise will also have a difficult time explaining why one loudspeaker sounds different from another. I can make that distinction, which is why I can make valid recommendations that suit peoples' purposes. Not elevating myself above anyone or trying to stand on a pedestal, just explaining that I put a great deal of thought into my recommendations.

The size of subwoofer has nothing to do with how "tight" or accurate it will sound. Ask mabsmuzik on this board; he came down from the North side of Chicago and listened to my car. He never in his life believed that my 15" IDQ subwoofer would sound tighter than any 10" sub he had ever heard. It's all a function of moving mass, motor strength, and cone area. Most 12" subs are simply larger-coned versions of 10" subs that share the exact same motor structure. Given that fact, it is not difficult to see why the 10" would sound tighter and more accurate. Knowing what makes a sub sounds like it does is the key to choosing the sub that best fits your purposes.

Dynamat is overpriced garbage. Its primary purpose is a vibration absorber, and there are far cheaper and more effective products out there for that purpose. Head over to Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information and look at the CLD tiles.

For your budget, the Alpine Type-E sub will be a much better choice.

If you want to save $40, this is an excellent amplifier alternative:

Boston Acoustics GT-2125 (gt2125) GT Reference 2-Channel Amplifier

In fact, two Alpine Type-E 10" subs in a sealed box with that amplifier would be perfect.

15,763 Posts
Thanks for the deadener link. I will definitely hold off on the dynamat.
How many tiles/sqf would I need for the whole trunk? This stuff seams easy to install to, unless I'm mistaken.

Don't tempt me to get two subs - in reality, I want the box to be pretty easy to disconnect and take it out if I need more trunk, which happens because I go camping. And it would be nice to keep the sub in there for a camping trip if I can afford the room, which I won't be able to with a 40" long enclosure. :D
If you had a custom box made, you could make it happen with a box that measures 31.5" wide x 18" tall x 7.75" deep, and that includes a double thick baffle. Sure, it's wide, but it's very shallow, which leaves lots of trunk space. As for height, it's not like you'd be storing something on top of the box anyway.

That said, you can do this with just one sub too.

It's up to you. I would however recommend a box with an internal volume of 0.75-0.85 cubic feet gross volume. If you wanted me to build you one (single sub box), I could build it without bracing for $140 plus shipping. Just throwing that out there.

For the trunk, you'll probably need 12-14 CLD tiles. I think I used 4 for the trunk lid, and the rest for the trunk itself.

I've worked with Don in the past (owner of SDS). You'll need to deal with him via e-mail. If he takes too long to response, let me know and I'll shoot him an e-mail, as he responds to me very quickly.
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