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Please Help!! Went from randomly dying to now No starting**FIXED**
Edited to Add that replacing the Coil Pack fixed the car*
2013 Cruze 1.4 Auto 130k
backstory: I bought the car about 2-3months ago. It’s had the codes P0171,,P0420,,P0496 since I bought the car. The only issues Iv had is rough starts after refueling. Until about 2 weeks ago I was driving and it died an would not restart, it would just crank but after letting it sit for 5-10min it would start back up. I ordered a new vapor canister purge valve solenoid but before I installed it. I drove the car down the road 1mile to the store an on the way back it died an would not restart no matter how long I let it sit, so I pushed it home and installed the new vapor canister purge valve solenoid but it still will not start, just cranks an will not start.
2013 Cruze 1.4 Auto 130k
backstory: I bought the car about 2-3months ago. It’s had the codes P0171,,P0420,,P0496 since I bought the car. The only issues Iv had is rough starts after refueling. Until about 2 weeks ago I was driving and it died an would not restart, it would just crank but after letting it sit for 5-10min it would start back up. I ordered a new vapor canister purge valve solenoid but before I installed it. I drove the car down the road 1mile to the store an on the way back it died an would not restart no matter how long I let it sit, so I pushed it home and installed the new vapor canister purge valve solenoid but it still will not start, just cranks an will not start.
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Hello,
What codes is it giving you as of now? Did your repairs fix the codes it already had set?
What codes is it giving you as of now? Did your repairs fix the codes it already had set?
On my code reader the P0420, & P0496 say Permanent on them, I can’t clear them. I can clear the P0171 but it comes right back. The car died on me Friday night and would not restart, it just cranks. I installed the new Vapor canister purge solenoid Saturday morning but the car still will not start.Hello,
What codes is it giving you as of now? Did your repairs fix the codes it already had set?
(Before this it would always restart after letting it sit for 5-10min)
i would focus on the pcv first and foremost, this engine has 3(one in the intake, valve cover and a corrugated plastic vacuum hose that has a pcv diaphram) a good sign of a bad pcv in intake is when a lot of oil is present, the valve cover has a noticeable hiss but you would need it running and it wouldn't stop the car from starting unless it was massive. check all vacuum lines as well. as always, ensure spark and fuel is present. wouldn't hurt to inspect your throttle body as well but this normally just throws you into limp but i have run into ones that seized so bad it prevented air from entering the engine.
Do you have fuel pressure? If you can check that. Codes are for cat and evap so I dont see those keeping it from starting unless liquid fuel was getting by. Check the fuses for ign and fuel pump in the engine bay.
Iv got a cheap code reader an if it’s ready right it shows the fuel pressure around 56psi when the key is in the ON position (i think I saw 75psi once)Do you have fuel pressure? If you can check that. Codes are for cat and evap so I dont see those keeping it from starting unless liquid fuel was getting by. Check the fuses for ign and fuel pump in the engine bay.
Can you verify the coil is getting 12v and is firing plugs? 56psi is ok for FP. Can you also check fuse for fuel injectors.
I checked the fuses for the injectors and they were good, Iv got a cheaper scan tool (launch Creader 4001) an it says ignition- spark. Does that mean it’s firing plugs?Can you verify the coil is getting 12v and is firing plugs? 56psi is ok for FP. Can you also check fuse for fuel injectors.
i also tried spraying starting fluid in the intake and no change,
if your unsure how to check this just pull the coil and plugs. check the plug condition and gap, have a buddy crank while you check for spark the old school way. insert a plug into the coil and aim it some metal/ground. Ignition coil wiring schematics there's wiring schematics here if you have a voltmeter. test A/ (1st pin towards the front of the car) for 12v and B (next pin) for ground.I checked the fuses for the injectors and they were good, Iv got a cheaper scan tool (launch Creader 4001) an it says ignition- spark. Does that mean it’s firing plugs?
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Well the battery went dead from trying to start it so many times so I took the battery to O’Reillys to have them test an charge it overnight, when I reinstalled the battery, I was able to start the car and it idled for about 15min before dying, now the car won’t start again, I let it sit for over an hour an just tried again and nothing… it just cranks again. I’m getting a multi meter to check the coil wires like you suggested tomorrow evening.
Well after disconnecting battery for a period of time it allowed the car to start. Thats new information. I usually use an autel scan tool and pro demand software that lets me diag and search helpful articles. Just for the sake of getting the same result unhook your battery for an hour or 2 and then reconnect and try starting.
Okay thank you, I’ll let you know what happens in a few hours.
When I got it to idle yesterday for 15min. I pulled the little plastic cover than clips on over the valve cover an can’t hear that pcv sucking air. And I covered the hole with my finger an couldn’t feel anything an there was no change in how it ran when I covered it
at any moment did you see "calc" on the information screen near the odo display? was the idle smooth? the valve cover is one of 3 pcv valves but if that isn't blown the others are most likely fine since it likes to blow out when the intake one fails. still best to confirm and rule everything out.When I got it to idle yesterday for 15min. I pulled the little plastic cover than clips on over the valve cover an can’t hear that pcv sucking air. And I covered the hole with my finger an couldn’t feel anything an there was no change in how it ran when I covered it
when i bought mine it was still running with intake and valve cover pcv blown and shot plugs among many other issues including a bad tps in the throttle body.
to me this def sounds likes a Air/Fuel ratio issue. you either have a massive air leak or the car is flooding fuel on startup which the reset may have reverted to default to get it to run. if you get it to no start again try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if it starts. also spraying some brake cleaner or use a bit of propane near where the intake meets the head.
No Iv never seen “Calc” on the screen, I unplugged the battery on my lunch break today and it’s still unplugged. When I get home this evening I’ll try an start it an mess with the MAF. If I can get started again I’ll take pics of all the live readings of the A/F, etc, on my code reader so y’all can see if any Of the readings are”off”at any moment did you see "calc" on the information screen near the odo display? was the idle smooth? the valve cover is one of 3 pcv valves but if that isn't blown the others are most likely fine since it likes to blow out when the intake one fails. still best to confirm and rule everything out.
when i bought mine it was still running with intake and valve cover pcv blown and shot plugs among many other issues including a bad tps in the throttle body.
to me this def sounds likes a Air/Fuel ratio issue. you either have a massive air leak or the car is flooding fuel on startup which the reset may have reverted to default to get it to run. if you get it to no start again try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if it starts. also spraying some brake cleaner or use a bit of propane near where the intake meets the head.
again thank y’all so much for yours replies and help so far.
okay I just reconnected the battery after leaving it unhooked over night and it won’t start. I then unplugged the MAF an still wouldn’t startat any moment did you see "calc" on the information screen near the odo display? was the idle smooth? the valve cover is one of 3 pcv valves but if that isn't blown the others are most likely fine since it likes to blow out when the intake one fails. still best to confirm and rule everything out.
when i bought mine it was still running with intake and valve cover pcv blown and shot plugs among many other issues including a bad tps in the throttle body.
to me this def sounds likes a Air/Fuel ratio issue. you either have a massive air leak or the car is flooding fuel on startup which the reset may have reverted to default to get it to run. if you get it to no start again try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if it starts. also spraying some brake cleaner or use a bit of propane near where the intake meets the head.
UPDATE— okay so I put the old Vapor Canister Purge solenoid back on and it started but only ran for 12min before dying again.
When you unhook the lines and stuff is there any liquid fuel?
.When you unhook the lines and stuff is there any liquid fuel?
The lines that connect the the vapor canister purge solenoid?
No there’s nothing that comes out of them when I unhook them.
I was thinking about your problem earlier and it reminded me of a similar one I ran into rebuilding my engine. There is a relay in the underhood junction box that is wierd. It will allow your car
to start and run then die and do a crank/no start condition. I replaced it and car would stay on and start everytime after. I foumd a tsb and thats what led me to check it out.
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to start and run then die and do a crank/no start condition. I replaced it and car would stay on and start everytime after. I foumd a tsb and thats what led me to check it out.
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