My name is Dave and my fiancé owns a 2012 Chevy Cruz. She has had it for 10 months and has been nothing but problems for the last six. I need some insight on code p0303. I have a misfire on cylinder three and having trouble finding out what’s causing it. I just change the spark plugs so it shouldn’t be that. I’ve tried adding fuel injector/system cleaner and it helps for a day or so but then goes back to running rough. My girl Stepdad said to try spraying carb cleaner on the intake while it’s running to see if it makes it run smoother because he thought there was a crack or leak in the intake but that didn’t work. I’m thinking it might just be a bad injector sense the fuel cleaner seems to work for a day or so. Should I try a new injectors or does anyone have any insight?
Welcome Aboard!
A code
P0303 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wire
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Running out of fuel
Poor compression
Defective computer
Read more at:
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0303 Cylinder 3 Three Misfire Detected
Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze
here.
This is a cut and paste from a similar thread so it may be out of order for you:
#16-NA-015: Engine Stall or Stumble - Replace Coil Connector - (Jan 21, 2016)
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10112283-9999.pdf
Standard Motor Products S1380 Standard Pigtails & Socke
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Pull the ECM connector and look for corrosion. If you have any read this:
Burning up Coil pack
Blown Coil, Misfire problem SOLVED!!!
Coil blow out
or
Pull off the spark plugs boot and inspect the spring. It should have a resistor pellet integrated into. Measure the resistance of the spring from one end, to the end of the resistor pellet(looks like a tiny fuse or capsule usually). You should have somewhere between 800-1200ohms resistance. If you just have a plain spring, or if the resistance is below 800 or so, that's why you're blowing out coils. (Courtesy of Ma v e n)
And lastly:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10112283-9999.pdf
Tips to ensure no misfires occur:
Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.
Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)
Set gap with the black portion of this tool.
To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE
IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.
Measure the gap with feeler gauges.
Throw this away.
Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.
Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.
If the plugs look bad, consider these:
-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.
-FR7BHX-S (Ruthenium HX plugs)
Read
Hesitation Gone! for more info on the plugs.
A good replacement coil is the
MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coilpack 8236
How-To: Remove and Replace the Coil Pack and Spark Plugs.
While you are in there, if you have a
cheap endoscope, look at the pistons. This can also tell you many things.
Cheap compression tester