Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First off, if you do not have a monitor like a Scangauge II, you will not be able to see this. Also, the odds that it will happen to you are VERY LOW, but it is possible. It happened to me the first time at 115K miles,

For those of you with a monitor - DO NOT shut your car off during this "Pre-Regen" period. It will cause a DPF Full message and send you to the dealer. My theory is that it's heating up the exhaust but it's not yet hot enough to start burning off the soot, and the extra fuel will be mistaken by the sensors as extra soot. I had my grams of soot go from 22-35 immediately once and this is why. 32 Grams is the threshold to force a manual regen which at this time can only be done by a dealership. Also, if you drive too far with the "DPF Full" and "Reduced Power" message, it is possible to ruin the DPF.

Here's a video. The "Pre-Regen" is before a regen is indicated by a 1 on the gauge, but when the MAP is below 14, or the boost is negative.

https://youtu.be/ehMoYrpVmD0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,972 Posts
i thought you said you had to interupt the regen 3x to get the cel

cuz that would be insanely retarded to get a cel for one interruption when the driver doesnt even know theyre interrupting something.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i thought you said you had to interupt the regen 3x to get the cel
No - I said I have interrupted it (at least) 3 times with no ill effect. As long as the regen is fully in progress and/or not restarted, but not in the "Pre-regen" status, you are fine. Thanks for asking about that - it's a very good point.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MRO1791

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
i thought you said you had to interupt the regen 3x to get the cel

cuz that would be insanely retarded to get a cel for one interruption when the driver doesnt even know theyre interrupting something.
No - I said I have interrupted it (at least) 3 times with no ill effect. As long as the regen is fully in progress and/or not restarted, but not in the "Pre-regen" status, you are fine. Thanks for asking about that - it's a very good point.

I just went went through my 1st Regen today, but @diesel is correct, there appears to be a "pre-Regen" that lasts for about a minute where the MAP drops below 14 on the Scan Gauge ( at least mine did) before the actual Regen starts ( #1 on my Scan Gauge 2) . This could be the point at which the DPF is getting flooded with fuel and the the DPF is heating up because once the actual Regen starts ( #1 in the gauge) , the Soot Mass starts to drop pretty quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
I just went went through my 1st Regen today, but @diesel is correct, there appears to be a "pre-Regen" that lasts for about a minute where the MAP drops below 14 on the Scan Gauge ( at least mine did) before the actual Regen starts ( #1 on my Scan Gauge 2) . This could be the point at which the DPF is getting flooded with fuel and the the DPF is heating up because once the actual Regen starts ( #1 in the gauge) , the Soot Mass starts to drop pretty quickly.

Bump for for update to this thread: Since I @GlennGlenn get the frequent regens at less than 60 miles between regens since firmware reflash at dealer two months ago, I've become somewhat "quite" familiar with regens, seeing two-three a day. Dealer says this is normal and to be expected.

Just before a regen, you will see the Map go below / less than 14 on the SC2. This is the period when you do not want to turn off your CTD. It's not in pre-regen long, perhaps two minutes or less, but it is setting the system up for the actual regen which is indicated on the SC2 as #1. If you interrupt the pre-regen , you'll get a #3 on the sc2 and this is not good. Interrupting the #1 is fine as the car will just start regen mode once it gets to temp. You do not want to unterript the preregen that is just before the SC2 goes to #1.
 
  • Like
Reactions: diesel

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bump for for update to this thread: Since I @GlennGlenn get the frequent regens at less than 60 miles between regens since firmware reflash at dealer two months ago, I've become somewhat "quite" familiar with regens, seeing two-three a day. Dealer says this is normal and to be expected.

Just before a regen, you will see the Map go below / less than 14 on the SC2. This is the period when you do not want to turn off your CTD. It's not in pre-regen long, perhaps two minutes or less, but it is setting the system up for the actual regen which is indicated on the SC2 as #1. If you interrupt the pre-regen , you'll get a #3 on the sc2 and this is not good. Interrupting the #1 is fine as the car will just start regen mode once it gets to temp. You do not want to unterript the preregen that is just before the SC2 goes to #1.
It's during this 2 minute period that the "keep driving" message should come on. Maybe they will address this on the new one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
@diesel , it appears that from my DIC and the Scan Gauge 2 that during the pre-regen period , two things are happening: 1. The DPF is at temp or getting to temp in anticipation of a regen and 2. The fuel system is dumping fuel into dpf for ignition and burn off of soot. This is illustrated by the MAP going below 14 for at least in my case about 1-2 minutes and The DIC showing less than 99 mpg when you're OFF the throttle ( illustrating that there is fuel being dumped into the DPF and thus your car is using fuel / dumping fuel into dpf while off the throttle). Interestingly, I also observed that mine will not do any regen or go into regen if the rpms are lower than 1500. I even tried to see if regen would occur in neutral and it would not.

Regen or pre-regen will not occur IF the vehicle is not up to normal operating temp, which for me is just below or just /before the half-way point on the engine temp gauge. If I start the car and soot is at 22 Soot Mass , the pre-regen and regen will not start until the car temp is near the 1/2 hash mark on the engine temp gauge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I appreciate the information guys.

I am at 96k and actually had my DEF pump fail but was unable to replace it immediately and drove about 400 miles (code P21 DD). During that time, I picked up a P2463 code and I was hoping that after replacing the DEF fluid pump I would be able to run enough DEF through to clean my filter back up.

Unfortunately, I am now about 250 miles since replacing the pump and I still have a P2463 code and will likely have to replace the DPF sensor. I am unsure if I am going to replace this myself or take it to the dealership because I don't know if they are going to need to manually cycle the fluid afterwards or not.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@diesel , it appears that from my DIC and the Scan Gauge 2 that during the pre-regen period , two things are happening: 1. The DPF is at temp or getting to temp in anticipation of a regen and 2. The fuel system is dumping fuel into dpf for ignition and burn off of soot. This is illustrated by the MAP going below 14 for at least in my case about 1-2 minutes and The DIC showing less than 99 mpg when you're OFF the throttle ( illustrating that there is fuel being dumped into the DPF and thus your car is using fuel / dumping fuel into dpf while off the throttle). Interestingly, I also observed that mine will not do any regen or go into regen if the rpms are lower than 1500. I even tried to see if regen would occur in neutral and it would not.

Regen or pre-regen will not occur IF the vehicle is not up to normal operating temp, which for me is just below or just /before the half-way point on the engine temp gauge. If I start the car and soot is at 22 Soot Mass , the pre-regen and regen will not start until the car temp is near the 1/2 hash mark on the engine temp gauge.
I've observed similar behavior, however you can do a regen without driving, i.e. in neutral

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201-...-discussion/132874-regen-without-driving.html



I appreciate the information guys.

I am at 96k and actually had my DEF pump fail but was unable to replace it immediately and drove about 400 miles (code P21 DD). During that time, I picked up a P2463 code and I was hoping that after replacing the DEF fluid pump I would be able to run enough DEF through to clean my filter back up.

Unfortunately, I am now about 250 miles since replacing the pump and I still have a P2463 code and will likely have to replace the DPF sensor. I am unsure if I am going to replace this myself or take it to the dealership because I don't know if they are going to need to manually cycle the fluid afterwards or not.
Sounds like you need a manual regen. Not related to the heater issue. Coincidental. You most likely do not need a sensor replacement. (This is assuming I am correct in assuming that P2463 is the high soot accumulation in the DPF)
 
  • Like
Reactions: MRO1791

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
You're right @diesel, it is the high soot accumulation. I decided to buy and replace the sensor myself. I'll try the manual Regen first though. I am hoping to avoid the dealers but if it doesn't correct, I will go get the computer work done.

I think I've driven about 500 miles in reduced engine power mode so I am beginning to worry about whether I am going to begin getting restrictions on speed soon. Haha keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks again everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,972 Posts
You're right @diesel, it is the high soot accumulation. I decided to buy and replace the sensor myself. I'll try the manual Regen first though. I am hoping to avoid the dealers but if it doesn't correct, I will go get the computer work done.

I think I've driven about 500 miles in reduced engine power mode so I am beginning to worry about whether I am going to begin getting restrictions on speed soon. Haha keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks again everyone!
more of gambler than me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Bought in late June 2015,now have 7135 miles on it.
Have averaged 42 mpg.
Don't know if it has regenerated or not.
All I get is that the fluid is good.
My question is
How do I tell if it has or is going to regenerate?

Don at 85 yrs old

Didn't want to reply but ask a quesion
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You're right @diesel, it is the high soot accumulation. I decided to buy and replace the sensor myself. I'll try the manual Regen first though. I am hoping to avoid the dealers but if it doesn't correct, I will go get the computer work done.

I think I've driven about 500 miles in reduced engine power mode so I am beginning to worry about whether I am going to begin getting restrictions on speed soon. Haha keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks again everyone!
I would not worry about the speed restriction as much as ruining the DPF!! Too much soot form ignoring the code= no longer able to manually regen = new DPF required

Bought in late June 2015,now have 7135 miles on it.
Have averaged 42 mpg.
Don't know if it has regenerated or not.
All I get is that the fluid is good.
My question is
How do I tell if it has or is going to regenerate?

Don at 85 yrs old

Didn't want to reply but ask a quesion
Hi Don, welcome to the forum. Without a Scangauge, there's really no certain way to tell. You can tell if you interrupted a regen because your fans will stay on after you shut the car off nad it will smell like melting plastic. That's the only surefire way to know your car is doing a regen. Or, of course, being unlucky enough to shut your car off during the pre-regen I mentioned.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MRO1791

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Noticed something interesting today..

On my way to work I completed 99% of a regen before turning the car off, was at 5grams. After work I stopped for fuel maybe 10 mins into my trip which was enough to get up to operating temp and resume a regen (RGN = 1). I turned the car off again during the regen at 4grams. When I started the car and immediately noticed the soot jumped to 8grams! So it seems it doesn't necessarily have to be in a "pre-regen" mode for the soot to jump as I clearly burned off a gram and the SC reported active regen. Luckily I was far enough away from the max before a manual regen.

Wish I could have gotten that on video ... Guess I'll be watching more closely if/when I interrupt a regen.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MRO1791

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,652 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Noticed something interesting today..

On my way to work I completed 99% of a regen before turning the car off, was at 5grams. After work I stopped for fuel maybe 10 mins into my trip which was enough to get up to operating temp and resume a regen (RGN = 1). I turned the car off again during the regen at 4grams. When I started the car and immediately noticed the soot jumped to 8grams! So it seems it doesn't necessarily have to be in a "pre-regen" mode for the soot to jump as I clearly burned off a gram and the SC reported active regen. Luckily I was far enough away from the max before a manual regen.

Wish I could have gotten that on video ... Guess I'll be watching more closely if/when I interrupt a regen.
Thanks for reporting this. I will add that I've seen 8 grams happen pretty quickly after i complete a regen at 3 grams.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MRO1791

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,143 Posts
This may not be of any use, but in my Australian CTD when the car is in regen it idles 100rpm higher when stopped and in drive. I have the keep driving light in mine and it only came on for the second time since 2012 last week, so the regen is fairly invisible most of the time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MRO1791

·
Registered
Joined
·
738 Posts
This may not be of any use, but in my Australian CTD when the car is in regen it idles 100rpm higher when stopped and in drive. I have the keep driving light in mine and it only came on for the second time since 2012 last week, so the regen is fairly invisible most of the time.
I've been wondering that myself. I've had mine since October 16 and put about 40k on it. I have not yet seen the DPF DIC warning. I do about 100 miles a day on the freeway though, but I was off work two weeks and figured I would see it while driving around town. Never did pop up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,143 Posts
I've been wondering that myself. I've had mine since October 16 and put about 40k on it. I have not yet seen the DPF lamp. I do about 100 miles a day on the freeway though, but I was off work two weeks and figured I would see it while driving around town. Never did pop up.
90+% of my driving is in city streets and as I said the light has only come on twice. I just went to a freer road and kept it in a lower gear till the light went out. It took about 10-15 minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,972 Posts
I've been wondering that myself. I've had mine since October 16 and put about 40k on it. I have not yet seen the DPF lamp. I do about 100 miles a day on the freeway though, but I was off work two weeks and figured I would see it while driving around town. Never did pop up.
youre quoting a person that drives a completely different car than yours

him posting aboot a f150 would be as helpful as posting aboot his car in relation to yours.

your car does not have a dpf lamp, thats why youve never seen it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,143 Posts
There must be some sort of warning that you need to keep driving, surely? It makes no sense to just let the DPF get blocked without letting the driver know.
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top