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I may be overlooking a thread that discusses this but I was curious if anyone has just vented the pcv line to dead end into a catch can with an air filter coming off the manifold that runs to connection before the turbo with that brittle black hose and then just capping off the connection point on the turbo? I ask because ive already done the v1 or v2 bypass. Whichever one uses the throttle body spacer and this thing is still pushing quite a bit of oil. compression tests were perfect and the pistons still look brand new at 160k. boost pressure holds so im not thinking the turbo is bad. But I'm not sure if that's what just killed my throttle body sensor or not but given my fuel trims and my iat's I can tell the intercooler is plugged up again after I cleaned it out when I did the bypass. im getting temps from 140* up to 185* at times after the intercooler. I have hp tuners so the scanner is how im noticing the out of whack fuel trims. Sometimes pulling 10-14%, im gathering from all the ingested oil messing up the afr. if anyone has any input or advice on this it would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance!
 

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2013 Cruze 1LT
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Do you see a larger than normal streak in the turbo inlet? If not, I am not sure how venting the oil to catch can/plugging it would help here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don’t think it’s really larger than normal. I just can’t seem to figure out where else all the oil is coming from. there is virtually no oil coming in the pcv bypass port on the throttle body spacer. I’m not blowing smoke so I feel as if the turbo seals are good? I don’t know the ins and outs fully of this engine bc I’m mainly mixed up in LS motors but is it normal for it to plug up the intercooler every 10-20k? I did a full cleaning back then and changed all the turbo oil lines and what not and now it has the sludge all around the inlet of the intercooler again so with my high iat’s and negative trims my assumption is it’s plugged back up. I ordered a new one that arrives Thursday but I’m just tryig to track down the culprit. Whether it was coincidence from the oil or not my throttle body became erratic and since the tps is part of it I replaced the whole thing and the problem is fixed but as usual there was oil in the throttle body but it must have been pooling enough that it actually leaked out of the bottom of the charge tube at the throttle body and had a decent amount lying on the transmission. I wouldn’t say I drive it extremely hard. I have it tuned to only push 18# of boost and rev out at 6k. thanks for your input.
 

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2013 Cruze 1LT
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Well there’s only two places the intercooler could get oil from (you already know this) turbo bearing or pcv system. Are you using a quality oil? I wonder if a cheaper grade would atomize into the air more than a high quality one and stick to the intake parts as it moves the air through. My charge pipe always has some at the bottom when I remove it from the throttle body as does the throttle body itself. I have heard its pretty normal for boosted engines.
 

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2015 Cruze LT 1.4, aka Yuffie, aka RecklessRed
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I have bed suggesting this recently to quite a few people. If you suspect that the pcv is about to go, just use the retrofit thingy that is popular. It doesn't cost much, and while you have the manifold off, if you are wrench-handy enough to do a such, you port the intake manifold as well. As for the corrugated line, I snipped it out, used the fittings on both ends, and replaced with a nice thick rubber hose. It only costs a couple of bucks. Maybe like an hour of your time. Essentially my proverbial 2 cents is to just eliminate the issue before it becomes one you have to fix. I'd say like, less than 100 bucks total to fix the issue that looming before things break, or wait until it does then bandaid it with new parts (it will break again). Taking care of it asap will save you from having to purchase a new valve cover at the very least on top of doing the permanent fixes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well there’s only two places the intercooler could get oil from (you already know this) turbo bearing or pcv system. Are you using a quality oil? I wonder if a cheaper grade would atomize into the air more than a high quality one and stick to the intake parts as it moves the air through. My charge pipe always has some at the bottom when I remove it from the throttle body as does the throttle body itself. I have heard its pretty normal for boosted engines.
that's where im kind of at a loss. as for oil I was using 5-30 full synthetic mobil 1. I did come across someone saying pennzoil platinum has an additive that prevents it from "vaporizing" as much so I just switched to that the other day. 5-30 as well. im assuming the tps was coincidental because I do have 160k on it. good call on bringing up the oil point tho. ive always used mobil 1. but I never knew much of the atomization issue until the other day.
 

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I recently had switched to the highest grade pennzoil, seems like good oil. Unfortunately the dealer put ac delco in when they re sealed the pan. Oh well... again next oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have bed suggesting this recently to quite a few people. If you suspect that the pcv is about to go, just use the retrofit thingy that is popular. It doesn't cost much, and while you have the manifold off, if you are wrench-handy enough to do a such, you port the intake manifold as well. As for the corrugated line, I snipped it out, used the fittings on both ends, and replaced with a nice thick rubber hose. It only costs a couple of bucks. Maybe like an hour of your time. Essentially my proverbial 2 cents is to just eliminate the issue before it becomes one you have to fix. I'd say like, less than 100 bucks total to fix the issue that looming before things break, or wait until it does then bandaid it with new parts (it will break again). Taking care of it asap will save you from having to purchase a new valve cover at the very least on top of doing the permanent fixes.
yea I know what you mean. I went through 2 valve covers before I started researching what the deal was. I installed the cruzekits v1 kit. im currently wondering if maybe the replacement pcv he uses may have failed. I was just about to email him where he gets them so I can order one or just order it through him. Just kinda grasping at straws. Its a cheap enough part to throw at it to see. I'm like you and like to be proactive and fix things right and not wait for something to inevitably break then use bandaids. I was lazy tho when I had the intake manifold off so I didn't port it lol. is it too much of a pain to do and did it make a decent benefit? im always ripping cars apart so I could always pull it back off lol
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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The Bonami valve does need to be cleaned occasionally. It is highly unlikely it has failed. Version 3 on the other hand is a much cheaper valve and as since I do not have one, I cannot comment on the longevity of it.

@XtremeRevolution
 

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I don’t know the ins and outs fully of this engine bc I’m mainly mixed up in LS motors but is it normal for it to plug up the intercooler every 10-20k?
No

I did a full cleaning back then and changed all the turbo oil lines and what not and now it has the sludge all around the inlet of the intercooler again so with my high iat’s and negative trims my assumption is it’s plugged back up.
You actually pulled it out and rinsed out all the oil? If not, then that may be why it is still full of oil.

How-To: Charge pipe clean - up.
 

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that's where im kind of at a loss. as for oil I was using 5-30 full synthetic mobil 1. I did come across someone saying pennzoil platinum has an additive that prevents it from "vaporizing" as much so I just switched to that the other day. 5-30 as well. im assuming the tps was coincidental because I do have 160k on it. good call on bringing up the oil point tho. ive always used mobil 1. but I never knew much of the atomization issue until the other day.
Mobil 1 has a 10% volatility, so it is slightly higher. Pennzoil Platinum is at about 9%, so it's marginally better. Dexos1 is 13% maximum and API SN is 15% maximum, to put this into perspective. If you really want a low volatility oil, get AMSOIL, which is at 6.7%; signficantly lower than both. With AMSOIL, people typically top off 1/4 a quart in 10,000 miles of driving, or less. In my case, I didnt' top off at all in 15,000 miles of use. There is no additive that reduces volatility BTW; that's entirely dependent on additive and base oil qualtiy.

How much oil are you actually losing on the dipstick during a change?

You might want to review this article: https://cruzekits.com/tech-articles/f/root-causes-of-high-crankcase-pressure

@Blasirl Thanks for tagging me.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No



You actually pulled it out and rinsed out all the oil? If not, then that may be why it is still full of oil.

How-To: Charge pipe clean - up.
Yeah I actually pulled the whole system apart to clean everything. Rn gas through it until everything came out “clear”. Then I let it air out for a day or so before putting it back together. Everything was clean inside and out, at least to the best of my ability, when I put it back together. That’s why when I started to see the amount of oil on the connections and what not aggravated me.
 

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Mobil 1 has a 10% volatility, so it is slightly higher. Pennzoil Platinum is at about 9%, so it's marginally better. Dexos1 is 13% maximum and API SN is 15% maximum, to put this into perspective. If you really want a low volatility oil, get AMSOIL, which is at 6.7%; signficantly lower than both. With AMSOIL, people typically top off 1/4 a quart in 10,000 miles of driving, or less. In my case, I didnt' top off at all in 15,000 miles of use. There is no additive that reduces volatility BTW; that's entirely dependent on additive and base oil qualtiy.

How much oil are you actually losing on the dipstick during a change?

You might want to review this article: https://cruzekits.com/tech-articles/f/root-causes-of-high-crankcase-pressure

@Blasirl Thanks for tagging me.
Thanks for that info. I’ll see how this oil last does and if it doesn’t seem any better then I’ll give that amsoil a try. Interestingly enough I checked it before changing it and it still said full on the stick. But it’s clearly in other places. Lol. But I never really checked before either so it may just be gradual. My negative trims are just driving me nuts. After I added the cat less down pipe and high flow cat it wanted me to pull more fuel instead of add it so I was rather confused. I know I’m in the safe areas but I really need to just get a wideband on this thing and see what it says. I may have read the additive part incorrectly. But that is very good info on the oil and now brings me to a better understanding.
 

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Thanks for that info. I’ll see how this oil last does and if it doesn’t seem any better then I’ll give that amsoil a try. Interestingly enough I checked it before changing it and it still said full on the stick. But it’s clearly in other places. Lol. But I never really checked before either so it may just be gradual. My negative trims are just driving me nuts. After I added the cat less down pipe and high flow cat it wanted me to pull more fuel instead of add it so I was rather confused. I know I’m in the safe areas but I really need to just get a wideband on this thing and see what it says. I may have read the additive part incorrectly. But that is very good info on the oil and now brings me to a better understanding.
Negative fuel trims would likely be an exhaust leak (double check that vband clamp, they tend to break), an injector issue, or an air intake skewing the airflow pattern over the MAF.

Let me know if you'd like to run AMSOIL and I can get an order in for you.

Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk
 
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