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Discussion Starter · #321 ·
So I haven't checked in on this in a while, whats the cost for getting a decent running turbo on the 1.8L totaling so far?
It just depends on how crazy you want to get with it. When it was the stock engine with the T04E, it cost me around $1300. Largest expense was HPTuners and a Wideband.
In it's current state, I'd guesstimate I have around 5,500 - 6k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #322 ·
 

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2012 Cruze LTZ 1989 StarQuest 2004 TrialBlazer EXT
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I enjoy your vids but family first man. Gotta take care of the other half the toys will be there waiting . Tinker when you find a minute or just need a breath. Hope she gets well soon.
 
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2015 Chevrolet Cruze LT 1.4L Turbo
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It just depends on how crazy you want to get with it. When it was the stock engine with the T04E, it cost me around $1300. Largest expense was HPTuners and a Wideband.
In it's current state, I'd guesstimate I have around 5,500 - 6k.
$5,500 - $6,000, what a bargain ;)
Can't wait to see your COTM submission BTW!
 
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2016 Holden Cruze 1.8 | GT2560R Turbo | 6T45 AT |
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Loved ones first! Hope all goes well with that situation :)
Im at about 8k USD deep into my build and I have none of the fancy forged pistons etc that you have :/ Youve done a great job DIYing and keeping costs low!
 

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Discussion Starter · #326 ·
Loved ones first! Hope all goes well with that situation :)
Im at about 8k USD deep into my build and I have none of the fancy forged pistons etc that you have :/ Youve done a great job DIYing and keeping costs low!
Family definitely first!
Did you do the work yourself or pay someone? Thank you. It's fun tinkering with cars, and at least giving it my best at the DIY aspects of the build.
 

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Family definitely first!
Did you do the work yourself or pay someone? Thank you. It's fun tinkering with cars, and at least giving it my best at the DIY aspects of the build.
I had the fabrication of the manifold/ic piping/exhaust done by somebody else, all the other stuff I’ve done myself. I didn’t want the headache of having any of that stuff having to be redone because of my poor welding skills as it’s my only car. It’s down atm though as a bad expansion joint cover in a carpark flicked up and caught my exhaust and put a hole in the oil pan :/
 

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I had the fabrication of the manifold/ic piping/exhaust done by somebody else, all the other stuff I’ve done myself. I didn’t want the headache of having any of that stuff having to be redone because of my poor welding skills as it’s my only car. It’s down atm though as a bad expansion joint cover in a carpark flicked up and caught my exhaust and put a hole in the oil pan :/
That sucks. Was it a city owned thing? If so get an estimate or use your receipt and go to the street department. Make some noise and see what happens. It has worked in the past.
 

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That sucks. Was it a city owned thing? If so get an estimate or use your receipt and go to the street department. Make some noise and see what happens. It has worked in the past.
No it was privately owned, they've been cooperative so far this type of thing falls under public liability here in Aus. They said if the car is of legal ground clearance (100mm) there will be no issues.
 

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No it was privately owned, they've been cooperative so far this type of thing falls under public liability here in Aus. They said if the car is of legal ground clearance (100mm) there will be no issues.
Are you lowered?
 

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Discussion Starter · #332 ·
I had the fabrication of the manifold/ic piping/exhaust done by somebody else, all the other stuff I’ve done myself. I didn’t want the headache of having any of that stuff having to be redone because of my poor welding skills as it’s my only car. It’s down atm though as a bad expansion joint cover in a carpark flicked up and caught my exhaust and put a hole in the oil pan :/
Dang, must have got pretty banged up. Hope you get it back on the road soon.
 

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Been watching this build and all the videos and this has pushed me to start planning my own 1.8L build. I do have some questions though....

@Crewz The rods you used, are those from the 1.6L Corsa VXR by chance? I got tech specs from GM in regards to the motor and for the most part everything seems like those H Beam forged rods are a perfect match, but I'm having difficulty getting the stock center to center specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #334 ·
Been watching this build and all the videos and this has pushed me to start planning my own 1.8L build. I do have some questions though....

@Crewz The rods you used, are those from the 1.6L Corsa VXR by chance? I got tech specs from GM in regards to the motor and for the most part everything seems like those H Beam forged rods are a perfect match, but I'm having difficulty getting the stock center to center specs.
Nice! Welcome to the 1.8 build gang.

They're 1.6 Corsa VXR rods. 19mm on the small end. I went with these at the time and got them for a steal at $200.
Center to center length: 129.75mm
Big end diameter:46mm
Small end diameter: 19mm
Big end width: 21.8mm
Small end width: 19.9mm

https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/?track... Search for "Compatible for Opel Vauxhall Corsa VXR Z16LER Z16 1.6 Conrods Con Rod Connecting Rod"

Once I get the block back from machining and toss them in, I'll see if they're perhaps the same distance down in the hole. They seem just a smidge shorter to help with lower the CR for boost. However, they've installed nicely on the crank, but you will have to get different bearings because the tangs are on opposite sides vs the same side like on the stock rods.

I don't plan to push the engine more than 600 crank hp, and 8k rpm. From what I've seen from the 1.6 VXR dyno videos, that are basically the same block, they tend to like to rev high 8,200+
 

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I was looking at those and there was also a set of I Beams I found for about 300. Good to know and thanks for the videos. Also family is definitely first. I'm dealing with some family stuff myself or this this would be done already. :cautious:
 

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Discussion Starter · #336 ·
I was looking at those and there was also a set of I Beams I found for about 300. Good to know and thanks for the videos. Also family is definitely first. I'm dealing with some family stuff myself or this this would be done already. :cautious:
Sorry to hear that. That's life for ya. I'll be back to working on the car as soon as the engine gets out the machine shop. Definitely could use a day a week where I don't think about anything, aside from accomplishing my goal with this car before getting back to reality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #337 ·
Hey gang! Been a hot minute since I've uploaded or talked about the car. With this down time I have be doing a lot of thinking, planing, and collecting of parts.

The engine is still at the machine shop, but it'll be ready any day now. Some of things I've having done to the block to shoot for a 500+whp goal is I ordered a set of ARP head studs for a dodge neon SRT-4.

Same length, but they're 1mm larger in diameter, so I'm having the machine shop enlarge the taps to accommodate for that. So that should solve any issue with keeping the head from wanting to lift. The stock MLS gasket should work great here. One of the other things I'm doing is installing some ARP main studs. I dropped them off with the machine shop. We'll see if they work, but should only need a line hone afterwards. Same thread pitch as the stock units. If for some reason they're a little on the tall side, I'll start working on designing some billet aluminum caps.

I thought about getting a A16LET intake from overseas, but I think I'll end up fabricating a custom intake. 1) so it's on the transmission side 2) allowing the charge pipe to be shorter 3) I plan on utilizing a LSJ turbo throttle body, which is larger and has the same connector. I found some stock from ZZP that comes off their GM production engine stock.

I plan on modeling the custom intake around Racer X's 1.4 design, but adapting it for the 1.8.
https://racerxfabrication.com/sonic/intake/intake-manifold

I'm rethinking the turbo intake as I'm not a fan of the cone "hot air" intakes designs on the market. I do however like RacerX's cold air design
https://racerxfabrication.com/sonic/air-intake/cold-air-intake

Rather than keeping the stock 2.75 intake size, I will be stepping up to a 3.5" with a bell mouth at the opening, inside the cold air box, which will also allow me to use a K&N square style intake. (Take a look at the link above's photos for what I'm going for).

As you guys know, my issue last time around was overlooking the PCV setup. So I got a catch can from Motion Raceworks which will just attach to the PCV from the cam cover. https://www.motionraceworks.com/products/motion-raceworks-top-loader-billet-catch-can-single-12-an-port-32-103

Speaking of cam covers, I ordered a cast aluminum cover relatively cheap so I have piece of mind and don't have to worry about the cover melting. Also, If I need additional PCV, I could always weld on an additional bung. We'll see how it holds up to leaks. May end up using some silicon sealer in the corners. Luckily this thing is already painted black. Not a fan of bare aluminum cam covers.

In a previous video, I installed a DW300c fuel pump and purchased some 1200cc Siemens Deka injectors, which are a great brand. Only issue is there is almost zero characterization data for them aside from minimum pulse width and dead time. Not very helpful with HP Tuners and will make tuning a pain because I would be tuning around a bandaid. So I ordered some Injector Dynamics 1050x injectors.
http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id1050-xds/
Our cars run at 58psi and these will flow more than enough for my horsepower goals. Not to mention they already have the characterization already in Excel spread sheets I can just past into HP Tuners.

Last not least, I'm "making" a custom fuel rail. I purchased dash 8 blank stock for cheap that I will have to machine for the injectors and new manifold.

For fuel pressure regulation I ordered a Radium FPR
http://www.radiumauto.com/DMR-Direct-Mount-Regulator-P1951.aspx And their fuel damper http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse-Damper-Inline-Kits-P751.aspx

I will be cutting the stock 3/8 hard line and will be adapting it to dash 8 with a fuel return. Chevy Cruzes come stock with a returnees system. Something I've learned along the way is that the PTFE return line should be conductive to prevent a static charge from building up and arcing through the line causing fuel leaks and / or fire. So this is one part of the build where I'm not skimping, or going the eBay route for fittings. I've purchased some Fragola PTFE line and Earl's fittings. I'm not too thrilled about having to drop the tank again, lol, but it's a necessary evil to convert it to a return style system in order for the fuel pressure to rise 1 psi per 1 psi of boost.

I of course will be documenting and making how to videos along the way. All I have for now, but looking forward to completing this project within the next couple of months.
 

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Hey @Crewz, i was exposed to your project just a few days ago, I just finished putting PEC rods and Wossner pistons in my corsa, oversized pistons at 79.5mm. Its my first backyard engine re/build.
I used the Athena MLS head gasket, as it is a partner company of Wossner and PEC, and is highly recommended. Thats my experience with this engine's little 1.6 brother.

To the point, for an intake, definitely use an aftermarket one, or a modified 1.6 one, IMO the throttle body has to be cut off and reattached at least at an angle like the RacerX manifold you showed, or at 90 to the engine like the Edelbrock Victor X manifolds, which is ideal, since its proven to work well, better than the stock Corsa intake, again IMO.

PEC rods are pretty affordable, hence why I got them, also always ask for VAT off if you buy in the UK as a foreigner.
https://wgmotorparts.co.uk/pec-stee...hall-opel-corsa-d-vxr-1-6t-16v-z16ler-models/

Great idea on the ARP SRT4 head studs, that should work, since this block has plenty meat around the threads, and the thread is M10x1.25 IIRC, so a 1mm oversize is nothing, you could probably go 1/2"(12.7mm) big boy studs just for the fun of it. But im not sure if the head has enough meat on her.

Main crankshaft bearing caps... yeah, theyre not the stoutest, custom caps will probably not hurt at the power youre aiming at.
King Bearings make main bearings for this engine, amazingly they all just fit and had perfect clearance, plastigage is awesome btw.
Main bearings: MB5519AM
Always use new bearings. These, I believe, are the bi-metal soft bearings, like the stock ones, which means junk in your oil will embed into them and will not scratch your crank, or at least somewhat protect it, easily replaceable and cheap.

Good luck with the rail, seems like a sure way of making big power with plenty of fuel. Not much to say about that, since I dont know any of the products youre using, except that they seem to be of high quality and American made. Hell yeah brother!

I saw you got an M32, make sure its the later model with the revised bearing cover and bigger bearings. it should have a long galley sticking out of the casting towards the FL tire.

What about flywheel and clutch? Single mass with a twin disc?

Good luck with your build bro, youre doing great, i saw the oil pump refurb video and was like, ****, i only cleaned the gears and didnt actually open any of the M18 plugs.
Those are 18mm btw, next time you need one of those copper seals:
Amazon.com: COPPER CRUSH WASHERS ID 18mm / 6 PACK: Automotive
So an M18 or 18mm banjo will thread in.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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Hey gang! Been a hot minute since I've uploaded or talked about the car. With this down time I have be doing a lot of thinking, planing, and collecting of parts.

The engine is still at the machine shop, but it'll be ready any day now. Some of things I've having done to the block to shoot for a 500+whp goal is I ordered a set of ARP head studs for a dodge neon SRT-4.

Same length, but they're 1mm larger in diameter, so I'm having the machine shop enlarge the taps to accommodate for that. So that should solve any issue with keeping the head from wanting to lift. The stock MLS gasket should work great here. One of the other things I'm doing is installing some ARP main studs. I dropped them off with the machine shop. We'll see if they work, but should only need a line hone afterwards. Same thread pitch as the stock units. If for some reason they're a little on the tall side, I'll start working on designing some billet aluminum caps.

I thought about getting a A16LET intake from overseas, but I think I'll end up fabricating a custom intake. 1) so it's on the transmission side 2) allowing the charge pipe to be shorter 3) I plan on utilizing a LSJ turbo throttle body, which is larger and has the same connector. I found some stock from ZZP that comes off their GM production engine stock.

I plan on modeling the custom intake around Racer X's 1.4 design, but adapting it for the 1.8.
https://racerxfabrication.com/sonic/intake/intake-manifold

I'm rethinking the turbo intake as I'm not a fan of the cone "hot air" intakes designs on the market. I do however like RacerX's cold air design
https://racerxfabrication.com/sonic/air-intake/cold-air-intake

Rather than keeping the stock 2.75 intake size, I will be stepping up to a 3.5" with a bell mouth at the opening, inside the cold air box, which will also allow me to use a K&N square style intake. (Take a look at the link above's photos for what I'm going for).

As you guys know, my issue last time around was overlooking the PCV setup. So I got a catch can from Motion Raceworks which will just attach to the PCV from the cam cover. https://www.motionraceworks.com/products/motion-raceworks-top-loader-billet-catch-can-single-12-an-port-32-103

Speaking of cam covers, I ordered a cast aluminum cover relatively cheap so I have piece of mind and don't have to worry about the cover melting. Also, If I need additional PCV, I could always weld on an additional bung. We'll see how it holds up to leaks. May end up using some silicon sealer in the corners. Luckily this thing is already painted black. Not a fan of bare aluminum cam covers.

In a previous video, I installed a DW300c fuel pump and purchased some 1200cc Siemens Deka injectors, which are a great brand. Only issue is there is almost zero characterization data for them aside from minimum pulse width and dead time. Not very helpful with HP Tuners and will make tuning a pain because I would be tuning around a bandaid. So I ordered some Injector Dynamics 1050x injectors.
http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id1050-xds/
Our cars run at 58psi and these will flow more than enough for my horsepower goals. Not to mention they already have the characterization already in Excel spread sheets I can just past into HP Tuners.

Last not least, I'm "making" a custom fuel rail. I purchased dash 8 blank stock for cheap that I will have to machine for the injectors and new manifold.

For fuel pressure regulation I ordered a Radium FPR
http://www.radiumauto.com/DMR-Direct-Mount-Regulator-P1951.aspx And their fuel damper http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse-Damper-Inline-Kits-P751.aspx

I will be cutting the stock 3/8 hard line and will be adapting it to dash 8 with a fuel return. Chevy Cruzes come stock with a returnees system. Something I've learned along the way is that the PTFE return line should be conductive to prevent a static charge from building up and arcing through the line causing fuel leaks and / or fire. So this is one part of the build where I'm not skimping, or going the eBay route for fittings. I've purchased some Fragola PTFE line and Earl's fittings. I'm not too thrilled about having to drop the tank again, lol, but it's a necessary evil to convert it to a return style system in order for the fuel pressure to rise 1 psi per 1 psi of boost.

I of course will be documenting and making how to videos along the way. All I have for now, but looking forward to completing this project within the next couple of months.
I have a Racer-X manifold I could loan you for a short period if you deem it necessary to actually see one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #340 ·
Hey @Crewz, i was exposed to your project just a few days ago, I just finished putting PEC rods and Wossner pistons in my corsa, oversized pistons at 79.5mm. Its my first backyard engine re/build.
I used the Athena MLS head gasket, as it is a partner company of Wossner and PEC, and is highly recommended. Thats my experience with this engine's little 1.6 brother.

To the point, for an intake, definitely use an aftermarket one, or a modified 1.6 one, IMO the throttle body has to be cut off and reattached at least at an angle like the RacerX manifold you showed, or at 90 to the engine like the Edelbrock Victor X manifolds, which is ideal, since its proven to work well, better than the stock Corsa intake, again IMO.

PEC rods are pretty affordable, hence why I got them, also always ask for VAT off if you buy in the UK as a foreigner.
https://wgmotorparts.co.uk/pec-stee...hall-opel-corsa-d-vxr-1-6t-16v-z16ler-models/

Great idea on the ARP SRT4 head studs, that should work, since this block has plenty meat around the threads, and the thread is M10x1.25 IIRC, so a 1mm oversize is nothing, you could probably go 1/2"(12.7mm) big boy studs just for the fun of it. But im not sure if the head has enough meat on her.

Main crankshaft bearing caps... yeah, theyre not the stoutest, custom caps will probably not hurt at the power youre aiming at.
King Bearings make main bearings for this engine, amazingly they all just fit and had perfect clearance, plastigage is awesome btw.
Main bearings: MB5519AM
Always use new bearings. These, I believe, are the bi-metal soft bearings, like the stock ones, which means junk in your oil will embed into them and will not scratch your crank, or at least somewhat protect it, easily replaceable and cheap.

Good luck with the rail, seems like a sure way of making big power with plenty of fuel. Not much to say about that, since I dont know any of the products youre using, except that they seem to be of high quality and American made. Hell yeah brother!

I saw you got an M32, make sure its the later model with the revised bearing cover and bigger bearings. it should have a long galley sticking out of the casting towards the FL tire.

What about flywheel and clutch? Single mass with a twin disc?

Good luck with your build bro, youre doing great, i saw the oil pump refurb video and was like, ****, i only cleaned the gears and didnt actually open any of the M18 plugs.
Those are 18mm btw, next time you need one of those copper seals:
Amazon.com: COPPER CRUSH WASHERS ID 18mm / 6 PACK: Automotive
So an M18 or 18mm banjo will thread in.
Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like a pretty killer build. I've looked at quite a bit of the 1.6 "little brother engines" for inspiration.

I have a set of Maxpeedingrods H-beam rods with ARP studs. I should be good there. The replacement bearings I got are the same number you mentioned, King bearings. I found some rods bearing that they make as well that are for hp applications, but the tangs are on the the wrong side of one of them. Hopefully I can at least use the upper half to help take some of the force of the rod / piston being pushed down. I'll know more once the engine is back from the machine shop.
You're right about the amount of meat. I didn't want to go too crazy with over boring the threads just to be sure it'll hold just fine and the block not break around the threads. The SRT-4 guys seem to have pretty good success with the ARP rods, so I'll start there.
For the flywheel and clutch, it's a Clutch Masters single mass aluminum flywheel and a Stage 5 Spec clutch. It's unsprung and has a ton of contact area. It'll hold up to 550 ft lbs of torque, which I don't see the car reaching until it gets in the 750+bhp range. But we'll see since this is uncharted territory (at least that's been documented that I can find).
I'm basing the intake around this boost theory / engineering book I've found. It's an older book, but still holds true in many aspects. But long story short, it'll definitely be similar to a skunk2 style intake, well at least what I can fabricate.

I'll keep you guys updated both here and on the ol' YouTubes. :) Cheers.
 
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