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Hey guys,

So after reading up on everything I need to know about the trifecta tune, I noticed that most people have the tune on their eco cruze...

I own a 2012 cruze lt, so the car is heavier and stock is slower than the eco ( 0-60 ) . I have read that with the trifecta eco's are getting a bit under 7 seconds ( tuned only ) and was wondering if anyone who owns an lt which has a pretty slow 0-60 stock could chime in here and tell me how much of a difference did the trifecta tune make, even better if it was dyno'ed...

Thanks.
 

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Can't comment on specific times but it's noticeably quicker. You won't break 6 seconds that much I can tell you.
 

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Can't comment on specific times but it's noticeably quicker. You won't break 6 seconds that much I can tell you.
In my ECO 1st gear is not noticeable between tunes. 2nd gear 3500 range is when you can tell the difference. There seems to be (Dora the explorer long pause) lag up to that point.


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In my ECO 1st gear is not noticeable between tunes. 2nd gear 3500 range is when you can tell the difference. There seems to be (Dora the explorer long pause) lag up to that point.


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How bout highway power?
 

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Going up the gears it's noticeable by a lot between the tunes but a downshift feels like it's holding back power for a few seconds before it starts to pull. 6th gear @ 60 you can feel the car pull slightly more if you turn cc off in the middle of accelerating.
 

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I have the heaviest model (2012 ltz) and can tell you it made a huge difference. It has been too rainy to time a 0-60 since the tires just keep spinning. I was doubtful but the tune is by far the best investment for this car hands down.
 

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I have the heaviest model (2012 ltz) and can tell you it made a huge difference. It has been too rainy to time a 0-60 since the tires just keep spinning. I was doubtful but the tune is by far the best investment for this car hands down.
Yes, no regrets and I understand why people say the car should have been like this from the factory for at least 2LT and LTZ standpoint. If I don't grind 2nd gear, I spin the tires enough to flicker the traction control light. I data logged with T/c and stabilitrac on and off as well as a full on no lift shift and part throttle run. I wouldn't be mad if they found more power to send me on a dial in tune.
 

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Just noted, they say you have to use 91 octane fuel. Not making any mechanical modifications. Only thing to play with is injector and ignition timing, specs state about 6 more HP. With some questions about passing strict emission laws if you have this and voiding your warranty.

Just the act of using a higher octane fuel increases spark advance due to the anti-knock sensors, a fair comparison is not available. Increasing the compression ratio would also help, but would need a stronger crankshaft, rods, and pistons.

If you really want to more than double your HP, trade your Cruze off for a Caddy CTS.
 

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Just noted, they say you have to use 91 octane fuel. Not making any mechanical modifications. Only thing to play with is injector and ignition timing, specs state about 6 more HP. With some questions about passing strict emission laws if you have this and voiding your warranty.
Boost and torque limits...?
 

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If you like playing with fire, going way back, any guy that played with more turbo burst blew their engine. If not this, their drivetrain or both.
The v tuner and trifecta tunes are safe levels. Others I can't speak for as average person looks at hp and Tq numbers not thinking of longevity.


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Yes, no regrets and I understand why people say the car should have been like this from the factory for at least 2LT and LTZ standpoint. If I don't grind 2nd gear, I spin the tires enough to flicker the traction control light. I data logged with T/c and stabilitrac on and off as well as a full on no lift shift and part throttle run. I wouldn't be mad if they found more power to send me on a dial in tune.
They said I had no need for a retune I'm dialed in. I pulled the + cable of the battery to redo my steering wheel dip and the car seems to respond to the tune more. Wish I knew that sooner. I may data log again just to be safe.

If they said less fuel cost per mile, would be interested.
Less fuel used per mile after you stop flooring it everywhere you go. The tune makes 3k and up too fun to not rev to at least 4.

Considering I own a 6 spd manual I would say eco 6 spd vs lt 6 spd...
Next question is what do you want for trim options and how detrimental is mpg? 2LT has a manual option if you order it and all the options possible over the 1LT and Eco trims. 2LT will be heavier than the 1LT and ECO. ECO actually weighs less than the LS. Best bet is find someone who has tuned LT and ECO. I can't speak for the non ECO as I haven't driven manual LT past 1st gear.






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Yes, no regrets and I understand why people say the car should have been like this from the factory for at least 2LT and LTZ standpoint. If I don't grind 2nd gear, I spin the tires enough to flicker the traction control light. I data logged with T/c and stabilitrac on and off as well as a full on no lift shift and part throttle run. I wouldn't be mad if they found more power to send me on a dial in tune.
If you want to save your trans and completely get rid of the second gear grind, there are a few things you can do. Now I don't know exactly what combination of these mods would remove it if you're trying to save some money, but all of these combined fixed it.

This list is ordered by my opinion of what does the most:
1. Clutch line. Over the Top Performance sells a stainless line in the Sonic section of their webstore. Not sure if it fits the Cruze, you should probably email them and ask. Removes the stupid clutch diaphragm that can cause the clutch to not fully engage (why GM????).
2. Motor Mount (maybe trans mount as well). Prevents the engine from moving around so much. I like the OTTP mounts since they are made of machined aluminum and have solid rubber as the core. Much nicer for daily driving. TurboTech sells poly ones if you plan to do nothing but track/autocross it.
3. New trans fluid. I think most people run Amsoil Synchromesh, but I could be wrong. It's what I use and it works well under all weather conditions (well... all weather for Florida that is lol)
4. Shifter cable clamp and shifter bushings. ZZP and BNR sell them and they help make the shifts crisper and more accurate. (Really GM? Rubber bushings for the shifter??? Ridiculous)

All of those things combined helped completely fix it for me :)

EDIT: Didn't realize this was from 2014 sorry lol. I'll keep this post up in case anyone wants to read it though.
 
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