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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2014 cruze with the 1.4 turbo and find I don't get much engine temperature in cold weather. When the temps get close to -20c I find that my car will not heat up at all until I start driving. The gauge will never go over the 1/4 range. If I slow down for a street light I can see the temps drop. When the temps outside gets close to -30c it will not even get close to 1/4. I even had a day last week when it got to -40c and after 30 minutes of driving the engine temps did not register at all. I have never had any problems like this on an other vehicle before. Can tis be normal for these small engines. Thanks in advanced.
 

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Yes very normal.. The 1.4 is so small and doesn't make much heat.. A member on here "Xtream" has a thread named "does your Cruze take forever to warm up" jump in there and buy the Amsoil product that he is talking about it will help your car warm up faster and might get you some more heat on those cold days..


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I have never seen anything below -5C personally so I dont notice any changes in temp gauge, though obviously coming up on -5C it will start taking more and more time to heat up. Tiny engine = low heat production. Sadly, normal apparently
 

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I mean outside of the grill, the black plastic part in front of the car. Not behind the plastic part, but in front of it. That plastic we called as a mask (translated) here. It has always been done in that way here in Northern Europe. It helps the car engine warming faster and to keep the warmth when driving. Not so much the wind to the engine compartment. I've put couple of links here into some threads earlier for commercially made ones to show how it looks, but those are really easy to cut from something, plastic, imitation leather etc. Cardboard has also been used, but that gets wet quite easily. Fixing to the grill I've done ones with some old hooks from seat covers and rubber band, but it's also easy to use a imagination for something else. Now in my Cruze I still have hooks from the manufacturer of the cover.
Using that kind of cover You need to be carefull still to not overheat the engine. Use only when there's cold below freezing point and follow the engine temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
supposed to be nice this weekend so I will look into making something for it. I think I still have some fake leather I can use. THanks again.
 

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Yep, tiny engine, little heat.

As Bullet suggested, a grille block does help some. I used some black vinyl (same kind used for vehicle wraps) and just put a piece over the opening in the grille above the licence plate. Made a small but noticeable difference in warm-up times.

There are lots of threads on the forum about this topic. Other things that help are to turn the fan speed down slightly, turn the temp setting down slightly, and use the recirc function as much as possible without getting too much moisture inside the car.

-40C? Which part of this frozen land are you reporting from? Is that thermometer temperature or wind chill?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm from the Sudbury Ontario area. No wind chill. I worked outside in that.

Before bought this car I did do some reading but did not see any post about this problem but it was also summer time. I may have looked at other options if I knew this. Thanks for the advice
 

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Thats only, what.....about -25f.....nothin to it, we just had -18f night before last.
I got good heat......finally......shortly before hipothermia set in.

Rob
 

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Thats only, what.....about -25f.....nothin to it, we just had -18f night before last.
-40C is equal to -40F. That's BLOOOOOOODY cold, especially to be working in it for any length of time.

The only time I've ever been exposed to -40C was in cold testing chambers... metal tools freeze instantly to your skin if you touch them after letting them sit, I had to keep my tools in my coat unless I was able to complete the entire job with gloves on.
 

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Yep, you got it.....-40 is -40.....gotta work on my calculating skills.

Frankly, when it dips below -25f I think it becomes just a number......miserable is miserable.
In 1982 we had a -26f day.....I replaced a clutch on a Mac.....outside......became hypothermic after six hours outside.
Didn't know it though......untill I started to thaw out and found my center section saturated.......with urine.....I'd been pissing myself out there and never knew it.

Evil experience....I'm a bit more cautious in my old age......do that again and I'd be a Robsicle.

Rob
 

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It would be nice if a block heater was an option instead of the oil pan heater (especially when using full synthetic). I had to start my 1.4L at -38C & -40C last week, and it did not like that at all! A block heater would make a real difference under the hood, since the oil pan heater doesn't radiate any noticable heat into the engine bay.
 

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It would be nice if a block heater was an option instead of the oil pan heater (especially when using full synthetic). I had to start my 1.4L at -38C & -40C last week, and it did not like that at all! A block heater would make a real difference under the hood, since the oil pan heater doesn't radiate any noticable heat into the engine bay.
I second that... I actually thought I was getting a block heater with my car. The salesman was rattling off all the options I could choose from when I ordered the car and he said "block" heater instead of oil pan heater.

Believe it or not, an oil pan heater is more beneficial than a block heater when it comes to ease of cold starting. Keeping the oil warm also keeps the lower part of the block much higher than ambient. Keeping the oil warm not only makes sure the oil pump can actually pump it and lubricate the engine (drastically reducing start-up wear), but keeping the crank warm makes sure the oil already in the bearings is thin enough to let the crank spin freely making it FAR easier for your ice-cold and energy depleted battery to turn the engine over.

A block heater, on the other hand, will barely warm the oil at all. It will keep the crank warm and get you heat in the car sooner, but the oil pump will just cavitate and pump mostly air instead of oil.

Check out this Esso video. True, they are talking about choosing the correct lubricants, but it's a great visual for people to see none the less. They show the results of several oils flowing in -35C conditions. The reality is, an oil pan heater that keeps the oil at a much higher than ambient temp will keep the oil in a much more fluid state, regardless of the oil grade, and make cold starts much easier:

esso engine oil winter conditions part 1 - YouTube

Part two is a wrapup:

esso engine oil winter conditions part 2 - YouTube
 

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The main cooling for the engine comes from the lower intake down low under the main grill and this will have the main benefit for warming if covered. The center grill should be enough to give a little bit of cooling to stop overheating as covering the lot gives zero air and the engine may actually overheat. Before you say that coming from a warmer climate I wouldn't understand remember we have to keep our engines from overheating and know which part of the cooling system works the best.
 

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Coldest I've seen this year has been -20C.

I have a cold air intake and no heater. The engine does get warm, but 1/4 temp is the max when you start getting around -10C. You can still get up to full operating temperature on the highway if you are over 2K RPMs, but as soon as you get off it will dip. Try not to heat the car until 1/4. Don't worry about it reaching full operating temperature; it usually maintains a modest amount of heat at 1/4.
 
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