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The downside of oz, fleece and efi live ..they lock their files and the ecu.. I guess for proprietary reasons. My tuner had to physically open and unlock the ecu, return it to stock with a oem file, and then built it from there. Now my ecu is wide open and can be tweaked all I want. If there are only three or four tuners in the world that can tune these, he is definitely one of them. and I think he could easily do it with a non deleted car too he just needs to actually put one on the dyno. Like I stated in the above post if you live in MD it would be interesting to see what he could do to a stock one.
So he stole the fleece tune and made some random changes. I see.

If that’s okay with you well.... You be you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
nope snipesy... if you read what I wrote. He returned it to stock and built the file from there. He looked at theirs said it was okay but was heavy on the bottom end. Due to what I am doing with the car I don't need all the power at the bottom like they had it. It's good for seat of the pants 0-60 but when the slowest track speed is maybe 35 their tune doesn't make sense for me. He built if from scratch from the stock oem file, there apparently is a database of stock tunes out there.
He actually takes the ecu out of the car and writes directly to it on the bench in the hex code or whatever it is called. It's stacks of numbers, you gotta know what your doing because it is the base programming for the car not some shell. It's not anything like you're thinking that can be copied and pasted.
 

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nope snipesy... if you read what I wrote. He returned it to stock and built the file from there. He looked at theirs said it was okay but was heavy on the bottom end. Due to what I am doing with the car I don't need all the power at the bottom like they had it. It's good for seat of the pants 0-60 but when the slowest track speed is maybe 35 their tune doesn't make sense for me. He built if from scratch from the stock oem file, there apparently is a database of stock tunes out there.
He actually takes the ecu out of the car and writes directly to it on the bench in the hex code or whatever it is called. It's stacks of numbers, you gotta know what your doing because it is the base programming for the car not some shell. It's not anything like you're thinking that can be copied and pasted.
Unplug the MAF sensor. Turn key on. And tell me how many seconds it takes for the CEL to turn on after the initial self test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
summit point in two days... I'm excited to see how the car does now that I have a trans cooler, coil overs, and custom tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Turned a 1.41 time at summit point I think that is good for my car but not sure. My friend brought his c6 corvette and turned a 1.35 best for the weekend. It was like a yoyo with him. If we started close I would be right on him in the turns or pulling away while in the turns....but... then he would power out and pull away on the straights.
Biggest fix from the weekend gotta bleed all my brakes, I thought I could get away from issues as I just did them last fall. Guess I was wrong. Made it almost all the way through the weekend before squishyness started becoming an issue at the end of a 110 straight with pretty much a hard right 180 degree turn. I kept having to move my initial braking marker further and further back. I may look into putting the ATS calipers and the redrilling rotors for the increased size just to bleed more heat or at least spread it out more. I will also be adding brake duct cooling as there is a clear path from where my fog lights should be to the inside of the wheel wells.
 

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Turned a 1.41 time at summit point I think that is good for my car but not sure. My friend brought his c6 corvette and turned a 1.35 best for the weekend. It was like a yoyo with him. If we started close I would be right on him in the turns or pulling away while in the turns....but... then he would power out and pull away on the straights.
Biggest fix from the weekend gotta bleed all my brakes, I thought I could get away from issues as I just did them last fall. Guess I was wrong. Made it almost all the way through the weekend before squishyness started becoming an issue at the end of a 110 straight with pretty much a hard right 180 degree turn. I kept having to move my initial braking marker further and further back. I may look into putting the ATS calipers and the redrilling rotors for the increased size just to bleed more heat or at least spread it out more. I will also be adding brake duct cooling as there is a clear path from where my fog lights should be to the inside of the wheel wells.
If I recall the caddie brembo calipers will run bolt in with impala police cruiser rotors
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
you may be right pandrad. there is a brake upgrade post that is pretty lengthy. I am reading through it now. That is where i saw the cady reference, but I havn't found the impala rotors yet. Also sent to zzp site and saw the larger kit for cruzes have caddy calipers but they are out of stock otherwise I would have just bought the kit.
 

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You wouldn't need to re-drill ATS rotors, they have the same bolt-pattern.
 

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You wouldn't need to re-drill ATS rotors, they have the same bolt-pattern.
If o recall the problem was the ATS rotors didn’t center right on our cars caliper wise so the police impala rotors did with no drilling. I wish I could find the brembo wrote up
 

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If o recall the problem was the ATS rotors didn’t center right on our cars caliper wise so the police impala rotors did with no drilling. I wish I could find the brembo wrote up
Right, but with ATS Brembos they should, right?

We've got pretty big brakes as it is, I'm not sure more rotor on the stock single-piston sliding caliper would really be beneficial, aside from just weighing more rotationally.
 

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Right, but with ATS Brembos they should, right?

We've got pretty big brakes as it is, I'm not sure more rotor on the stock single-piston sliding caliper would really be beneficial, aside from just weighing more rotationally.
From the write up I recall could be wrong, that the brembo caddie calipers need to be used with the police interceptor impala rotors to be perfectly centered on the caliper and without drilling a rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Finally had a chance to pull off brakes. They are the prostop z23. They actually did pretty good on brake fade only started to show a little toward the end of the day, but only made it through 4 track days total. the inside actually wore a little ramped on the pads as found one of the caliper slides was sticking. I would use them again if I needed something quick and avaliable, I will probably stock a pair when I go to the track for a complete meltdown fix. Replacing all fluid with motol as I did find some moisture in the fluid after only the two weekends.

That being said I am going to try the hawk hp plus pads not looking for more wear resistance but I would like a little less fade over time. I hopefully will be able to meet up with my friend at VIR that has some temperature tell paint. the pads should be good up to 700. If I find I'm going over that I will probably switch to a different compound I was just trying to keep pads that are reasonable if I need to move the car on the street say to the alignment shop or something.. trailering everywhere can be a pain.
Also just got done with the first side putting on brake duct cooling.. put it in the what did I do to my cruze today.. I got the fog light bezels for my car and am just putting it through those for now. If somebody has a better idea how to fit it to front of car let me know. Ran the ducting under the car through suprisingly open space to the wheel well and put a 3 inch hole through that and zip tied the .... out of it to the side of the A arm, will probably get some metal straps when I go to the store tomorrow. Checked to make sure no rubbing all the way to both stops. cut just a little bit out of the dust shield and bolted the bracket to the caliper bracket bolt. I thought I would have issues with the axle but its not even close to rubbing the tire or axle.
291862
 

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Finally had a chance to pull off brakes. They are the prostop z23. They actually did pretty good on brake fade only started to show a little toward the end of the day, but only made it through 4 track days total. the inside actually wore a little ramped on the pads as found one of the caliper slides was sticking. I would use them again if I needed something quick and avaliable, I will probably stock a pair when I go to the track for a complete meltdown fix. Replacing all fluid with motol as I did find some moisture in the fluid after only the two weekends.

That being said I am going to try the hawk hp plus pads not looking for more wear resistance but I would like a little less fade over time. I hopefully will be able to meet up with my friend at VIR that has some temperature tell paint. the pads should be good up to 700. If I find I'm going over that I will probably switch to a different compound I was just trying to keep pads that are reasonable if I need to move the car on the street say to the alignment shop or something.. trailering everywhere can be a pain.
Also just got done with the first side putting on brake duct cooling.. put it in the what did I do to my cruze today.. I got the fog light bezels for my car and am just putting it through those for now. If somebody has a better idea how to fit it to front of car let me know. Ran the ducting under the car through suprisingly open space to the wheel well and put a 3 inch hole through that and zip tied the .... out of it to the side of the A arm, will probably get some metal straps when I go to the store tomorrow. Checked to make sure no rubbing all the way to both stops. cut just a little bit out of the dust shield and bolted the bracket to the caliper bracket bolt. I thought I would have issues with the axle but its not even close to rubbing the tire or axle. View attachment 291862
Hawk does not make brake pads for the diesel, i’ve called them and they only make it for the gasoline cruise. The only option for performance brake pads other than what you have are Porterfield r4-s.

the duct you did is exactly how I was thinking of doing mine. However ATM I’m thinking of putting in off road LED cubes there for better lighting.

291866
 

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I also forgot to mention, those brake ducts won’t do much without seal plates. Yah they will take a good bit of fab but they will truly force air into the rotor where it’s needed.

 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Hawk does not make brake pads for the diesel, i’ve called them and they only make it for the gasoline cruise. The only option for performance brake pads other than what you have are Porterfield r4-s.

the duct you did is exactly how I was thinking of doing mine. However ATM I’m thinking of putting in off road LED cubes there for better lighting.

View attachment 291866
That's odd that they say they don't I just installed the first side of hawk hp plus and it fits fine as far as I can tell.. maybe I'm missing something? I will post the part number when I get a chance. I found a page that list a bunch of race compounds available in hawk.. will post that too.
Yep I realize I won't get optimum cooling without some serious fab work. I got the end of the duct plate only about and inch from the rotor.. anything is better.. I feel like I was close to fade point so this might be just enough to keep the temps from going over .. from experience it is not a good feeling when you go over....effort goes way up and stopping goes way down. Also I was thinking if anybody knows some kind of decoupling material that would be suitable for the back of the pads it would help with temperature in the fluid. I found a site for it but nothing for our cars.. they used titanium plates to help disapate heat.
 

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I presume you're not running the OE wheels, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Diesel OE wheels everything fits.. as long as it sits back far enough as the calipers it's fine.

For those of you wondering here is the part number for 2014 Diesel Hawk HP plus pads.. HB706 N.714

This info can be found on Hawks own webpage at:

do your year make model sub model=ltz and then notes= diesel. I know weird but it is under ltz then diesel that's probably why no one can find it. including hawk tech themselves?..lol

avaliable in that list are all the below for front and rear.

performance ceramic
DTC-30
hps 5.0
HPS
DTC-60
HP+
DTC-70

grab the part number and then go shopping at other sites.. Their website is usually higher.

if anybody has a hard time finding it let me know.
 
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