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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

The upper radiator hose on my 2012 1.4L (109K miles) has a hole in it where it looks like it was rubbing on a wiring harness (this is about 3 in down the hose from the water outlet). For the life of me I cannot find out how to reach the bottom clamp? Does this require removal of the bumper cover, remove batter box or what??

Thank you
 

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I haven't done this, but I think a pair of remote clamp pliers would be a benefit. A resisted these for many years, but finally found a pair at sears years ago with rewards dollars.

I think you can get something of reasonable quality for $30-$40. Well worth it. Walmart.com has something for $12, but I don't know if these would last for the first clamp.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1q6HVe8Iw0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1q6HVe8Iw0
 

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Thanks for the photo's.

In your first picture what is the black ear that's covering the top end of the hose clamp? Is that part of the body frame? The second shot is that from the underside with just the small splash shield removed ? The one that's on the underside of the bumper across the full length? Not with the bumper off.

It looks like a remote pliers may fit based on the second picture, as it appears that the black ear of the frame is not touching the top edge of the hose clamp.

fish the cable up from the bottom. Or use a dremel or hack saw to cut the clamp. I've done that before on cars with METAL radiator fittings. Not sure if it's worth the risk on a plastic tank.

You could pull the bumper, look for fog lights threads on this forum, but I'm not sure that's going to give you the clearance you need between the clamp and the radiator.

How about a bent angle snap ring pliers that can be squeezed to tighten the jaws..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is part of the bumper frame and 1st pic was taken from front of car with bumper cover and headlight removed 2nd is from bottom. I was able to get the clamp to rotate up so I think a pair of 90deg needle nose from the back is going to work
 

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Wow. I know that part of the engine compartment is tight, but that's just crazy to have the clamp rotated in that location. You have me thinking to take a look tonight when I wash the car, is this just one case of the clamp being in a stupid spot, or are all the lower clamps at this location..

Yikes, bumper cover off to change a hose.. I've always said the cooling system on these cars are going to be very painful to maintain as the car ages. Way too many connections and hoses, with some being behind the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I manged to get that clamp of using a hammer to drive a long flat head screwdriver under the clamp to get it loose miracle I did not break the plastic port it connects to. I but on a screw hose clamp that I can get to by just removing the headlight and using a long screwdriver/socket wrench.

Been an ordeal overall! Car overheated and just shut off while daughter was driving and managed to limp it home a few miles with coolant added and a few quarts of oil in case the oil got baked. Overall got the hose replaced, changed plugs (they were way out of gap 035 and 040 - would the overheating cause additional gap creep?) and of course an oil change.
 

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I looked at my placement of that clamp on the 1.4L Automatic last night. It appeared that my clamp is slightly rotated from yours, and I think I could get on it with a set of hose clamp pliers. I didn't dig them out and try, because the engine was hot. I have two set's of pliers for these style clamps.

The first is a set that looks like a normal pliers, the the head where the clamp goes is round and rotates. The pliers also lock closed, which helps. The other is the remote cable operated pair.

I hope you don't overheat the head. If you baked the oil bad enough I hope the head gasket/head doesn't leak on you. Good Luck hope that fixed things.
 

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I would suggest getting the Torque app for Android and a Bluetooth reader. $5 for the app, and about $20 for the dongle on amazon. Take a look at monitoring the digital coolant temperature as reported by the engine computer. Tracking this, might be able to help you determine if the engine overheated to the point of always running hot.

If it's sealed well these 1.4L should run about 219-221F. When the termostat opens at 221 and the car has been driven, not stop and go traffic you should see coolant temperature drop to 117 maybe 116F. That's a good tight system, Your seeing the cold coolant being pulled in when charting coolant temperature.

Stable around 220F might be ok, but also could be a low pressure situation where coolant is boiling.

If I recall correctly Autozone has the coolant pressure tester pump and adapters as part of their free loan a tool program. Pumping up at the bottle should hold 15-20 psi, as the Cruze cap is a 20 PSI relief.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I use Torque and in the past the car has been running around 212F at 72 MPH on the highway on a 30 mile run. Well keep an eye on it with new hose. In the week prior to the hose giving out the car had been bogging down going up hills - it would down shift 6 to 5 and then stutter and the app would show misfires across all cylinders. Last night in a 20 mile drive not a single miss fire and no actual or pending faults codes found.

Going to run some Techron through it and add 4 oz of Sea Foam to the oil.

Car has been a PIA overall:
2 valve cover replacements
2 throttle bodies replaced
1 manifold (check value blew out)
1 fuel rail/injectors
1 Water Outlet
and only 108K miles

I have an 06 Trailblazer with 206K and have cleaned the TB once, replaced power steering lines, a fan clutch, and a water pump.
 

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I've found that in a pinch, channel locks can work. From the picture, I think it might be able to get in there an rotate the clamp to a better position for the right tool.

I used to use the screw-type clamps until someone pointed out that there's no "spring" to them to accommodate expansion/contraction. The spring-type keeps a constant pressure while while things change. Perhaps a wise move when dealing with plastic.
 
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