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Radio Controls Stopped Working

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I bought my 2012 Cruze new in 2012, and last summer I ran into a strange issue with the radio controls in my vehicle. For a week or so the radio controls would flicker on and off, sometimes staying on for several minutes, others just briefly. After that week the controls completely stopped working (they do not illuminate at night, no response to any buttons). My air conditioning and heat still work, along with traction control and shifter. The radio itself is stuck on, but fortunately the steering wheel controls work so I can mute, adjust the volume, and switch between my presets.

I checked the fuse in the interior fuse panel, there are no burnt out fuses. I removed the bezel and the control panel and the wires were all in tact (not burned, not obviously frayed). I picked up a new radio control panel from the dealership, but it wasn't being detected either. I traced the connection in the harness back to the radio unit itself and everything was connected properly. I'm not sure what went wrong, but the dealership said it likely isn't covered under my extended warranty and quoted me a minimum of $280 for diagnostics (2 hours minimum at $140/hr shop rate). Has anyone else experienced issues with the radio controls dying out of the blue? I believe all the updates have been applied to the software, and the other controls seem to work just fine.
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With low voltage starting and power on reset, radio in my 2012 was the very first thing to act up, ain't a radio, but a computer. And why they are using flashram in these things is well beyond my degree of comprehension, but also can be a problem if the code was corrupted. PROM would not have this problem.

If let go, problems increase to getting codes, namely from the BCM, the ECU seems to be the most solid, but if that is left unattended, engine won't start. Ha, when mine got this bad, I did manage to start it, by removing the key, opening the driver's door, did start on the third try, was 40 miles from home, time to do something.

Switched on the blower to full speed, 20 amp load, engine off, got my VOM and checked for voltage drops, both negative and positive battery cables were bad, dropping a total of around 2.1 volts. Drilled out the crimps on the battery terminals, copper on the inside was corroded and bare, soldered those in.

With my scope on the output of the ignition relay, not a clean pulse, jagged, so popper off the cover and cleaned the contacts. This ended all these problems, replaced that made in China ignition relay with a Panasonic.

We use to make great relays in this country, now we don't make anything.
 

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Can't even bench test these things any more, data link sends a code to the radio to turn it on, very similar to the remote on your garage door opener. Claim they do this for a thief deterrence to protect you from this, only your dealer has the tools to check that code.

Just like the computer you are typing on, can be a software or a hardware problem, so you try to reinstall the software to learn if this solve the problem, again, only your dealer can do this, called a reflash. Luck is have a low voltage or a power on reset problem, this you can doing something about, anything else, take it to your dealer.

Its not a radio, its a computer, with firmware stored in flashram.
 

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Not only GM, dey all do dis. Why are you using all those separate warning beepers, already have a radio with speakers, use this instead. Most expensive thing is the box you put this stuff in, use the same box. Has an audio amplifier and speakers, feed this signals into this.

Only problem with this money saving technology, when you lost your radio, lose everything, OnStar, XM, MP3 player, warning signals, hands free calls, programming, etc., oh, and the radio itself.

Not only the radio, use to have separate modules for cruise, AT control, ignition modules, and even the alternator voltage regulator, now all jammed in that ECU box. Instead of paying a couple bucks for an ignition module, have to replace the entire ECU.

Sure a round about way to find that radio code, breadboard the entire vehicles electronic system, also should have a logic analyzer that cost practically as much as a new vehicle to read those codes. Oh, that breadboard is only good for one radio.

Ha, would be easier to hack into the GM service web site to get that code. Also have to be extremely careful when working with EEPROM, stored in flashram, slightest amount of ESD, will delete it.

Love my wife, but like everybody else, new is better, LOL. Why I like this old stuff, easy to work on and cheap, other three vehicles, any radio will work, hundreds to choose from. Suspecting problems with the fuel regulator on my Supra, 30 bucks for a new one. Easy to replace, with this new stuff, mounted with the fuel pump, have to drop the tank, buy all that other stuff you don't need and lay our around 250 bucks!

All brass cooling system parts, can be cleaned with acid and repaired with a propane torch, new stuff, throw it away and pay $$$$ for new ones. Ha, not only the radio, but just about everything thing.

Ha, lost count on the number of times I was told by my dealers to trade if off for a new one. Would work for a little while, but then told to trade it off again.
 
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