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Discussion Starter #1
I know I saw one similar post but without a resolution. It has happened to me twice now. First time, I was heading home in a rain storm and the radio began cutting out. At the time, I did not associate it with any particular activity of the car. I thought maybe water was getting into the fuse box. I was heading home from New England and just concentrated on getting home.

This morning, it is fairly cold (20 F) and soon after l leave the driveway, the radio goes out when I apply the brake, also when I accelerate. The running lights were on, so I turn them off. Then the radio does not go out when braking as frequently, but still happens occasionally. The voltage readout on the battery appears fine, but I still feel like the battery cannot handle the current draw because of the cold. It was fine driving home from work around 5pm when much warmer (50 F). Is a new battery (or worse, a new alternator) in my near future?
 

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Age of car and battery? This could also be a loose or bad connection or cable.
 

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There is a resolution to almost every problem. What Year/Model CRUZE do you drive. Could it be the Battery cable?
 

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Simple fix ... try not to use the brakes while listening to the stereo. No ... wait ... I mean uh ... don't use the Stereo while you're braking. LOL
 

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All this high tech stuff on cars ect these days is really great until it screws up. Your problem makes no sense what so ever. If it was a bad/loose battery cable as mentioned other problems would occur and not only when you apply the brake.
I have no idea what it could be but if you find out please let us know.
 

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Actually, the experience the OP is having lines up with the first diagnostic step to determine if the negative cable has high resistance.

The very first service bulletin, back when dealers were trying to reproduce the concern, instructed the tech to first turn on the radio and then add electrical loads......the first being, apply the brake pedal.
This not only triggered the brake lamps (through the BCM) but also triggered the brake vacuum pump on the turbo versions.
The combination made a fairly strong electrical surge and, since the radio is most intolerant of voltage variation, it would often blank out.....sometimes even losing the clock memory.
The instructions said to continue adding load with the radio turned on......turn on the A/C, blower on high, turn steering back and forth rapidly (EPS).....open and close windows......anything that increased current flow getting back to the battery ground.

Often, if the planets were correctly lined up, the humidity and temperature were just right, and the car was facing 15 degrees West of due North, and the mechanic had purchassed a lottery ticket with the last 37 minutes, the failure could be reproduced and negative cable replacement was then recommended.

Yep, seems like fun speculation but this finally evolved to the 'Just replace the cable as a first step if the customer complaint is the radio (or more) is flashing onand off.

OP?.......start with negative cable replacement.....10 year warranty part.

Rob
 

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All this high tech stuff on cars ect these days is really great until it screws up. Your problem makes no sense what so ever. If it was a bad/loose battery cable as mentioned other problems would occur and not only when you apply the brake.
I have no idea what it could be but if you find out please let us know.
These could be the first symptoms of a systemic electrical issue. The ABS system draws a lot of power even when not actively pulsing the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Rob,
Interesting recommendation about the cable, but seems like a worthwhile effort. I am quickly growing to dislike the electronics on this car. Check engine light has been on twice in less than a year that I've had it. It's a 2012, and I have no idea how old the battery is. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks Rob,
Interesting recommendation about the cable, but seems like a worthwhile effort. I am quickly growing to dislike the electronics on this car. Check engine light has been on twice in less than a year that I've had it. It's a 2012, and I have no idea how old the battery is. Thanks again.
Get that cable replaced. Then go from there on the electronics. What were the two CELs?
 

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All this high tech stuff on cars ect these days is really great until it screws up. Your problem makes no sense what so ever. If it was a bad/loose battery cable as mentioned other problems would occur and not only when you apply the brake.
I have no idea what it could be but if you find out please let us know.
Ironically this is a simple electrical problem that would affect a "less techy" car just the same.
 
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