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Actually, the experience the OP is having lines up with the first diagnostic step to determine if the negative cable has high resistance.

The very first service bulletin, back when dealers were trying to reproduce the concern, instructed the tech to first turn on the radio and then add electrical loads......the first being, apply the brake pedal.
This not only triggered the brake lamps (through the BCM) but also triggered the brake vacuum pump on the turbo versions.
The combination made a fairly strong electrical surge and, since the radio is most intolerant of voltage variation, it would often blank out.....sometimes even losing the clock memory.
The instructions said to continue adding load with the radio turned on......turn on the A/C, blower on high, turn steering back and forth rapidly (EPS).....open and close windows......anything that increased current flow getting back to the battery ground.

Often, if the planets were correctly lined up, the humidity and temperature were just right, and the car was facing 15 degrees West of due North, and the mechanic had purchassed a lottery ticket with the last 37 minutes, the failure could be reproduced and negative cable replacement was then recommended.

Yep, seems like fun speculation but this finally evolved to the 'Just replace the cable as a first step if the customer complaint is the radio (or more) is flashing onand off.

OP?.......start with negative cable replacement.....10 year warranty part.

Rob
 
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