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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 Cruze LS stock radio issues... the unit has power, lights up, but wont let me turn it on or use any other function. I slipped in a cd to see if it would play, now i'm stuck listing to the frozen soundtrack. (Guess I can thank my three year old). Any ideas how to fix this?
 

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You can try pulling the fuse for the radio - or disconnecting the battery. Failing that, I hope you're under 36K miles - then you can make it a dealer problem.
 

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My radio was acting that way too, to keep it simple, replace both the negative battery cable and the ignition relay in the center of the underhood fuse relay box.

Won't get into how to test these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I ended up pulling the radio fuse and it was still acting up. I just serviced my car and shut the hood and now my radio works. I don't know if it had a loose connection or what the deal was but I'm glad to get rid of Elsa and Onna.
 

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Check the ground straps to see if any of them have loosened .
Also there is a TSB for the + and - Cables from the Battery ...
 

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This is how my radio was behaving. Could step on the clutch, switch the ignition to off, but definitely not lock, open and close the driver's door, switch on the ignition to run, ease off the clutch to start the engine again, and the radio was okay for awhile.

Call this erratic operation. In testing the ignition relay on the bench with a ten amp load on it and repeatedly energizing the relay solenoid, the voltage drop was different each time across the relay contacts. Should be less than 0.05 volts, jumping all over the place.

Cut the case open, carbon build up on the contacts, used a relay burnishing tool to clean them up, but replaced it with a Panasonic relay with a 75 ampere contact rating. Need a very sharp voltage rise to reset all those computers in these things.

Corrosion where the cable inserts into the negative battery terminal clamp came a few weeks later. with the ignition on, running the blower motor at maximum that junction was dropping 2.1 volts. Pulled the cable, dipped it in a solder pot, than recrimped the terminal, dropped that voltage to a few millivolts under the same load. DIC voltage display also was crazy.

Figured if this happened to me, can happen to anyone. While I was at checked all the relay contacts, also all the positive voltage connections.
 

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Its the job of engineering to compose a specification sheet for each component used, with full specifications and a dimensioned drawing of the component, and even an approved vendors list.

Get an ambitious purchasing agent, will find the component from someone else for a unit price a quarter of a cent cheaper and brag he is saving the company money,

This is when the consumer has problems, good guess on this relay, made it passed the 36 month warranty period, but sure didn't make it past that 36K mile bit.
 
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