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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2018 diesel cruze hatch with 22k miles and I've been having this odd issue lately when I start my car after not driving it for 6+ hours where a loud rattle comes from the engine bay. Its not throwing me any codes and the engine starts and runs fine. It just rattle for the fist couple seconds of start up from a cold start (typically sitting over night or when I start my car after leaving work). It doesn't do it when the engine is up to temp and then shut off and turned back on.

Has anyone else encountered this issue and know what the cause is?
 

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I own a 2017 Cruze and a 2018 Gmc Terrain both lh7's. The cruze has only made this noise a handful of times. The Terrain does it alot and it depends on the ambient air temperature. To me it sounds like the starter is hanging up. There doesn't seam to be any information on this issue.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I own a 2017 Cruze and a 2018 Gmc Terrain both lh7's. The cruze has only made this noise a handful of times. The Terrain it depends on the ambient air temperature. To me it sounds like the starter is hanging up. There doesn't seam to be any information on this issue.

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Yeah I know, it sucks that is seems I'm the only one that's having this issue. I'm going to try recording it and bringing to the dealership to see what their opinion is on it if they can even figure out what it is. It literally only happens when the car is started after not running for a long period of time.
 

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I have an engine clatter that happens on occasion. It seems like the pilot injection isn't happy. Clatters a little bit like an older diesel....

I pulled into the smog test place last week and restarted the car and it made the clatter ... and the woman doing the test said "that sounds horrible". She was shocked and didn't believe me at first when I said it was a diesel. I turned it off and restarted again and it went away...

in every case If I turn the engine off and restart it goes away.

Since it didn't happen for the first 25k miles, my first suspicion is that it is a sticky EGR valve. I could clean it. But I bought a new one to swap in and will clean the other and put it on the shelf.

Jeff
 

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To me it doesn't sound like a combustion related knock. It sounds more metallic, like a something related to the timing set or the starter hanging up. The noise is coming from that side of the motor.

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Sound like something different from what I am hearing - but I am only listening to the rattle from inside the vehicle - I haven't opened the hood to listen....

jeff
 

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I had a rattle sound, like detonation on a gas engine, at light throttle and when I took off. I cleaned my plugged MAP sensor and it went away. I initially thought it may be some tuning issues but when I cleaned the MAP sensor it fixed it.
 

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My car now has a minor, annoying rattle when started and it's conveniently appeared right after the warranty expired.
 

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Mine honestly sounds like a heat shield is rattling a little bit loose. I need to see if I can hear it when the engine is hot.

My BMW K100RS had a terrible, awful heat shield rattle on the muffler right around 2,400-2,500 RPM that made that bike sound disgusting. It was right at cruising speed. BMW had some sort of recall that was long ago expired, but they still sold a kit to replace some fasteners and put stainless steel washers or something on it. I just replaced the stock muffler with something welded on and it sounded a lot better.

 

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This is good to know root cause. Thanks for following up.

My car very likely had the same issue. My daughter had driven it for a year in a small college town with many very short trips.

I still think my egr valve needed to be checked too...

The "clatter" that I experienced would go away if I turned off the car and restarted it....

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mine honestly sounds like a heat shield is rattling a little bit loose. I need to see if I can hear it when the engine is hot.

My BMW K100RS had a terrible, awful heat shield rattle on the muffler right around 2,400-2,500 RPM that made that bike sound disgusting. It was right at cruising speed. BMW had some sort of recall that was long ago expired, but they still sold a kit to replace some fasteners and put stainless steel washers or something on it. I just replaced the stock muffler with something welded on and it sounded a lot better.

After listening to it multiple times and getting out and trying to rattle my heat shield, this is the conclusion I've come to. I haven't had any engine lights come on and it only seems to do it during the summer time when the metal has expanded a bit from the heat outside.
 

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If it is a cam chain noise that is the culprit - the cam chain tensioner can be driven by oil pressure. So varying ambient temps or oil condition might give varying results.

jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If it is a cam chain noise that is the culprit - the cam chain tensioner can be driven by oil pressure. So varying ambient temps or oil condition might give varying results.

jeff
Welp, you got me double guessing myself now, so I’m just gonna take it into the shop and have it looked at. It’s definitely one or the other for sure.
 

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How about this for a rattle? I notice this appeared (unsourced) on the Wikipedia page of the MDE/LH7 engine info:

View attachment 293300
That's not good news. I wonder if this issue has been more of a problem in Europe? I have not heard of the timing chain failing before. Has anyone else? I hope they address it in the 3.0 Duramax. It's the same design.

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Lots of banter about it on the Opel/Vauxhall forums, though "never addressed by the manufacturer" seems a bit of a stretch.

Seems they have a special warranty coverage to 100,000 miles for it that includes a new re-designed gasket, should the problem arise. Of course there's probably no such coverage stateside (LH7 is not included on the list of engines that receive the coverage.)

Pretty good info here: Vauxhall Astra k 1.6cdti loud rattle - Vauxhall Astra K Forums, but I'll admit I didn't read it all. The meat really starts on page 9 if you want to skip ahead.
 

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Lots of banter about it on the Opel/Vauxhall forums, though "never addressed by the manufacturer" seems a bit of a stretch.

Seems they have a special warranty coverage to 100,000 miles for it that includes a new re-designed gasket, should the problem arise. Of course there's probably no such coverage stateside (LH7 is not included on the list of engines that receive the coverage.)

Pretty good info here: Vauxhall Astra k 1.6cdti loud rattle - Vauxhall Astra K Forums, but I'll admit I didn't read it all. The meat really starts on page 9 if you want to skip ahead.
So how do we force GM to cover our cars the same way?

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That's not good news. I wonder if this issue has been more of a problem in Europe? I have not heard of the timing chain failing before. Has anyone else? I hope they address it in the 3.0 Duramax. It's the same design.
I was apprehensive about this in the engine but I went ahead and bought the car.

The timing chain is buried at the back of the engine so dampen sound by having it mated to the transmission case. So, the future problem is that if/when a timing chain is needing replaced, the job now involves dropping the engine out of the car. It isn't like timing chains on OHC engines are ever a great thing to do because you still have to take apart the entire front end of the engine in most cars, so timing chains in OHV engines are definitely easier (and those almost never stretch or break because they are short and stout). Timing belts are usually easy in most engines, but V engines can get harder.

Anyways, replacing the timing chain with this engine means removing the engine. That's a big ask for when cars start to get older and have lots of miles. Want to guess and say this job starts at $2,500? $3,500? Higher? I can guarantee there will be at least a few vehicles (Cruze, Equinox, Terrain) that suffer premature timing chain failure and the cost of the repair means the vehicle is sent to the scrap yard despite being otherwise functional and probably useful for more years.

For the 3.0 Duramax, the calculation in trucks is a bit different with higher costs and value of the vehicle. The other problem the 3.0 has is the oil pump drive belt that is rated for 150,000 miles, and it's on the back of the engine - you have to drop the transmission to change it.

The engine designer said the oil pump drive belt on those is really a non-issue because the 150,000 mile inspection interval is claimed to be when GM drove test vehicles, took them apart, and found absolutely no wear or other problems with the belts. It was just an interval they put on there to be comfortable saying that's when you might, rarely, possibly need to replace the belt. I wonder if anyone is going to actually do that, other than people who end up dropping the transmission for some other reason and throw that easy repair in there to just do it while things are taken apart. It's like throwing a $100 water pump into a timing belt job because you're taking it all apart anyway, or throwing a new clutch on a manual transmission if you have it all apart for anything.
 
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