Rear Brakes
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Ohhh, now that's a neat one.....I don't know the span on the Cruze rear pistons though.......heck, I'd buy it just cause its cool.....likely fits one of my cars (except the Cruze.....eco...rear drums)
With any luck another member familiar with the size will pop up.
Rob
Rear disc brakes, ha, not even my dealer knew these were adjusted by working the parking brake. Already have that ancient tool for screwing in the caliper pistons, Cruze had to change this, easy to make such a tool, but needed to keep this thing on the road. So just used a pair of long nose pliers. Two opposing notches on the piston face.
These brakes use the brake lever to activate a ratcheting mechanism to rotate that piston out. Periphery of the piston must be clean and helps to lubricate with brake fluid first so it can be screwed in.
A rubber bushing at the rear is suppose to keep road salt out, but it shortly dries up, this is an age old problem with GM rear disc calipers, that salt permanently binds that screw to the piston, and no way to turn it out, if you do, will never ratchet properly again, only choice is to replace it with a new one.
Using those metal clips on the pad brackets also was a bad idea, a trap for road salt that expands those clips so the pads are bonded hard and will not return to their home position causing over heating and destruction of the rotor.
Has anyone worked on these before, with rear disk calipers, try 40 years, with drums, try 62 years. ABS, also over 30 years, and they lie when they say they do not interfere with normal braking, a transistor shorts out or a valve sticks closed, you get no brakes at all.
These brakes use the brake lever to activate a ratcheting mechanism to rotate that piston out. Periphery of the piston must be clean and helps to lubricate with brake fluid first so it can be screwed in.
A rubber bushing at the rear is suppose to keep road salt out, but it shortly dries up, this is an age old problem with GM rear disc calipers, that salt permanently binds that screw to the piston, and no way to turn it out, if you do, will never ratchet properly again, only choice is to replace it with a new one.
Using those metal clips on the pad brackets also was a bad idea, a trap for road salt that expands those clips so the pads are bonded hard and will not return to their home position causing over heating and destruction of the rotor.
Has anyone worked on these before, with rear disk calipers, try 40 years, with drums, try 62 years. ABS, also over 30 years, and they lie when they say they do not interfere with normal braking, a transistor shorts out or a valve sticks closed, you get no brakes at all.
You might be able to have Autozone "borrow" one of those when you have to do your brakes. They do rent out a variety of tools at no charge as long as you return them.
Made in Taiwan, do not use an impact wrench. A good high quality impact wrench can be adjusted to be a lot more kinder than a hand wrench. To me, this is another way of saying this is a piece of crap.
I only buy good tools, many well over 45-50 years old that provided years of good service, like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7317A-Dis...816833&sr=8-1&keywords=otc+brake+caliper+tool
Math says, this tool will more than pay for itself with only one use, then you will have it forever. With a clean piston, and a good screw, was very easy to turn. How many miles on these brakes, and do you live in a road salt area?
I only buy good tools, many well over 45-50 years old that provided years of good service, like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7317A-Dis...816833&sr=8-1&keywords=otc+brake+caliper+tool
Math says, this tool will more than pay for itself with only one use, then you will have it forever. With a clean piston, and a good screw, was very easy to turn. How many miles on these brakes, and do you live in a road salt area?
143K miles and plenty of road salt.
Fear not....even when grungy on the outside with corrosion, the piston (assuming the boot is not split, a very rare occurance), will retract with the tool just fine.......I've never had one fight me yet (loooooong time).
Generally you spend more time cleaning corrosion from the areas the pad ears ride within and the caliper slide pins and bores.
Rob
Generally you spend more time cleaning corrosion from the areas the pad ears ride within and the caliper slide pins and bores.
Rob
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Is this only for the Diesel cruze? I own gm vehicles all my life and most had rear disc and never need a tool to screw the piston in. Just pushed it in the same way as the front. I believe the parking brake is inside the disk and not using the actual brake disk you stop with.
This applies to any rear disc brake system that does not use a 'Top Hat' type parking brake.
The 'Top Hat' system uses a small set of brake shoes that contact a drum cast into the brake rotor that act as the parking brake.
All rear disc systems that use the caliper as the parking brake in addition to being the road brake, require a mechanical method to retract the caliper piston, usually a tool that engages cutouts in the piston allowing you to screw it back down the park brake apply screw (an internal part.....what the park brake lever on the caliper is attached to.)
Rob
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