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Torque plates on mind were very poorly plated, those things that hold the pads, those pad clips would trap road salt, expand and lock the pads. Not only in the rear discs, but the fronts as well. With the caliper guide pins, somebody must have just stuck those in about a 1/4" if at all. Cleaned those off and loaded them with silicone grease, even the boots, helps keep road salt out.

As well as those boots on the piston, last thing put on, I filled the boots with silicone, this helps keep out road salt, pistons are ceramic, but the calipers are iron, rust gets in there to keep the pistons from returning. Also painted the torque plates with anti-seize, the only thing I leaned over the years that works for awhile, tip of the pads that contact those clips also got a good coating of anti-seize, just there, not on the pads. See shops install new pads with a hammer, this is a job for your baby fingers. Also painted the calipers with anti-seize, as well as the hubs where the rotors fit on. Put together dry, raw steel, if you don't with road salt, can't even remove the tire let along the rotor.

If they would only add about 0.5% nickel to the iron, wouldn't be nearly the problem. Use to do this with sheet metal, 1948 was the last year for this, would get surface rust, but no rust through threw. But if they did this, no reason to buy a new vehicle, and today replacement parts, can only use the word, completely outrageous. Ha, even saw some of my stuff that cost us a buck to manufacture on the dealers shelf for 150 bucks.

Not only in automotive, but everywhere. After a long drive, have to get out ans stretch my old legs, at a gas station or rest area, do a quick walk around holding the back of my hand to each rotor or drum, downshift to slow down, if I feel excessive heat, know I have problems.

Like Robby, checking the brakes is always a spring time job. And the only people that do this job right, is us.
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