Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

Rear Wheel Stud

3677 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  sheleb1
I have a 2011 LT with drum rear breaks. Was putting on winter tires last night & one of the nuts kept turning on the stud as I was trying to tighten to 100 ft. lbs. torque. I noticed that it was the stud that was starting to pull out, instead if the threads stripping. So I dialed the wrench down to about 95 ft. lbs. & it finally clicked off. My question is: Am I okay to just leave it as is? Or should I replace the stud? Or is it the drum that I might need to replace? Or both? Thanks in advance. Bill
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

· Registered
1,524 Posts
Stud pulling out? Aren't studs put in from the back side of the drum, where there is a big fat lip on it. If so, the stud shouldn't pull further out, unless it wasn't seated all the way to begin with. Either that, or the stud is stretching somehow...

If it were me, I'd take it apart and look closer at things. Maybe just replace all the studs, they can't be that expensive, or even that hard to replace, unless the Cruze has some odd design that I've never seen on a car. (I don't have drum on my cruze, so I've never actually seen a cruze rear hub/stud setup)

· Premium Member
5,470 Posts
Stud can't pull has a flanged head on the backside.

If the stud really is drawn out you were seeing it stretch prior to breaking.

I'm kinda wondering about the accuracy of your torque wrench....100 ft.lbs. sounds like a high number but it really isn't for this dimension stud.....well within its stretch point which is probably in the 150 range.

Anyways, if it is stretched, get a new stud and nut.
Remove the wheel and drum, orient the hub so the stud can be driven out without tangling with any of the brake hardware (wheel cylinder etc.)
As long as you can swing a hammer accuratly, drive the stud inwards.....a few good wacks does the trick.
Place the new stud in the hub, matching the serrations that the old stud left behind.....a bit of oil on the serrations helps.

Put a flat washer on the stud and install the lug nut (a standard nut required) backwards, chamfer facing out and draw the stud into the hub about a half turn.
Remove the nut and washer, install the brake drum, put the flat washer and reversed nut back on the stud.....install a couple of the lug nuts to secure the drum.....hand tight plus a bit of arm.
Firmly set the park brake to keep everything from spinning and tighten the nut on the new stud......this will take a fair amount of arm since you are drawing it back into the hub.
When the flange bottoms, you will feel a change in resistance to'll fight you.

Release the brake, remove the bolts and drum and look into the backside of the hub for a fully seated flange.
If all appears well, reassemble the whole shootin match.....retorque the wheel a couple times over the next 100 miles to verify the stud is fully seated.

BTW......It took longer to write this than it takes to do it.


· Registered
1,383 Posts
I realize this is a discussion on the rear drum stud removal. I remember a few years ago when a member Schipi, (sp?) had issues with the front rotors and clearance to pull the new stud in.

I believe he actually went through the work of pulling the front hub off. For those of us that don't have a grinder to modify the stud backside, is there an easy trick to the front stud replacement? I know sometimes there's a shorter one that can be used if avalible. Just interested if you've seen the front done in the shop, and how it was done.

The book is 100 ft/lbs, yet the original poster isn't the first one to snap studs. Maybe setting the wrench for 80-90 is a little less likely to have problems?
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.