Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
41 - 60 of 76 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
I'm guessing you know how to shorten the link I posted above to search, but here's the website I used. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market. I think you'll find more than just that one seller.

Is the car still drive-able during this whole time, or do you have it parked?

There's Pam's Automotive, I think they are in Northfield. If I recall correctly their parts have a lifetime warranty included with the sale.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Yeah, I did a search of the entire Midwest and there is nothing with that few of miles on it. The closest one was 6K and I think I would rather buy new at that point.

The car is drivable, but it gets garbage mileage and will eventually cost me money to drive it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
My Car was also built in July of 2012, but wasent put into service until August of 2012, so my warranty is good until August of this year 2017, Why would your car not be exactly the same as mine!! obviously there is an error in their system and I don't get why your just accepting a 4 year warranty when the rest of the cruze world gets 5 years!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
So I decided to call Chevrolet about this and here is what they said. The build date was early 2011 and the actual wheels on the road date was 06/2011, so that makes the expiration date 6/2016 or 5 years after wheels on the road date. It makes sense, but still kind of makes me mad.

Now onto the good news. I found a place in IL that has a 400 mile turbo off a 2016 Buick Encore that is going to be delivered on Thursday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Nope, my car is an extremely early 2012. The date that was hand written was the handover date to the dealership that sold it to the dealership I bought it from. Like I said the date was handwritten and said "contribution date", which I wasn't sure what that meant. I got clarification from GM that it was a handover date and not a build date. They told me the previous owner ordered/had it built extremely early. I actually questioned the dates, myself. The fact it was built very early in 2011 and had an on the road date of mid year, but was a 2012 really didn't add up. I'm aware that model years will come before the calendar year, but didn't realize it could be that early. I always thought October.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Thank you EricSmit. Not sure if I was relaying what you just said properly, but that is what I was told. As I said, I didn't realize they hit the showroom that early in the year. I always thought it was a little later in the year.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,012 Posts
The warranty is good from the delivery date, not the day it got to the dealer. You've got 5 years from original date of purchase.
Maybe. It's 5 years from the in-service date. Assuming that they sold you a new car and not a demo, I'd expect that to be the date you bought it.

I do think this is something worth discussing with the Chevy Customer account folk. Because unless it was sold as used or a demo, something funny is going on (perhaps fraudulent) and they left you with the short end of the stick.

Right now, it looks like everyone is just going by "what the computer says" and not sure as anyone with authority has looked at the transaction.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,372 Posts
Maybe. It's 5 years from the in-service date. Assuming that they sold you a new car and not a demo, I'd expect that to be the date you bought it.

I do think this is something worth discussing with the Chevy Customer account folk. Because unless it was sold as used or a demo, something funny is going on (perhaps fraudulent) and they left you with the short end of the stick.

Right now, it looks like everyone is just going by "what the computer says" and not sure as anyone with authority has looked at the transaction.
You even get full warranty on a demo or retired DRAC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Maybe. It's 5 years from the in-service date. Assuming that they sold you a new car and not a demo, I'd expect that to be the date you bought it.

I do think this is something worth discussing with the Chevy Customer account folk. Because unless it was sold as used or a demo, something funny is going on (perhaps fraudulent) and they left you with the short end of the stick.

Right now, it looks like everyone is just going by "what the computer says" and not sure as anyone with authority has looked at the transaction.
I did call them and walk through everything. I even challenged their dates and based off of what they were saying it does make sense. At the end of the call when they asked if there was anything else they could do I threw out "well, unless you would like to help a life long GM owner out by extending my warranty, there's nothing else" To which I got a laugh and a firm no. At least I tried.

No biggie. I didn't feel like being on the phone any longer than I had to and I lucked out with a turbo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
What's the warranty and price of your low mileage turbo? Looks good so you can visually tell the difference in play with the wastegate actuator pin? Between the old one and new one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Warranty is 6 months. Which is plenty of time to see if it even builds boost. It was $340 shipped to the door from IL. I have not wiggled the pin around, but I will do that as soon as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
Here's a video showing partial turbo removal. I'm not sure that I'd split the turbo from the exhaust manifold like that. Taking the dead one out fine, installing the new one, I would think you might have leaks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vi3-Fcsekns

Chiltons online seems to mention that the coolant lines that are on the back of the turbo are quick connects like a fuel line to fuel filter.

These are cut in the pictures above. They are the lines that have the insulation on them. It maybe easier to un thread for removal, but to insert it might be easier to thread the fittings into the turbo, and quick connect the lines in.

The old line is on the turbo, you could play with that to see if a fuel line quick disconnect might disconnect what's left of the lines from the old fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Thanks for the video. I have a feeling I am going to just disconnect everything and pull it out as a single assembly. The other thing I thought about doing is reaching out to some friends in the auto industry to get a print out of the book removal process. Worst case I buy a Chiltons/Haynes. It will at least give me a general understanding of what needs to take place.

On a side note, my wife just told me the brakes need to be replaced. What I heard was we need to upgrade to the bigger brakes that are outlined in this post (http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/12-g...n/156505-bigger-brakes-cruze-under-400-a.html). I wonder what else can be done while I am at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
Ask your wife or kids for their library card.. Go under resources on the library web page, and log into Chiltons online. You can access it from your home wifi. This is for people with library cards from the Twin Cities Metro area.

Full procedure is there. I think you can get by without the special tool that holds the coolant line that attaches to the turbo. I guess they are scared of you kinking the line.

It's one of the metal lines that the yard cut on your new turbo.. So either they were grabbing quick, or it's a pain to get at that fitting.
 
41 - 60 of 76 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top