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Replacing Rear wheel Stud for 1.4 LTZ Cruze

9598 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  NickD
Read about HOW TO ... do this in various threads.

Thought I would Sum Up my experience.

  1. Stud Sizes are L1 = M12 x 1,5 x 51 mm total length - Includes a L3 = 15.5 mm shoulder length
  2. Stud size are L1 = M12 x 1.5 mm x 49 total length - Includes a L3 = 13 mm shoulder length
  3. L2 = ~12.2 mm (can someone confirm ..?)
  4. Wheel (lug) nuts are M12 x 1.5 mm as these where on steelies they also had the tread on the outside for the standard wheels covers

Rim specs for 1.4 Cruze - Torque is recommend 100 lbs - I prefer 90 ( this is a personal choice)
215/60R166.5Jx16 ET395x105M12 x 1.556.5
225/50R177Jx17 ET405x105M12 x 1.556.5
225/45R188.5Jx18 ET405x105M12 x 1.556.5

How to replace Stud.

  1. Buy parts before hand - saves time and effort
  2. Remove Wheel and Wheel (lug) nuts
  3. Note : Drum Dust cover has a countersunk 6 x 20 mm(14.2 THD) holding bolt - requires a special tool for removal or drill this out.
  4. Remove dust cover (I used this opportunity top inspect brake pads and with air gun gently blow out dust)
  5. Gentle tap out broken stud ... Mine can out easily
  6. Replace with correct length stud.
  7. To pull Stud into Hub I used some Spring Washers (as spaces) then a wheel nut and tighten until flush and firmly embedded.
  8. Replace Dust cover
  9. Remember to insert and tighten 6 mm countersunk bolt
  10. Replace wheel - I use some anti-seizure paste on studs
  11. Tighten Wheel (lug) nuts to correct torque - My torque wrench is set to 90 Lbs
  12. Replace wheel covers and tighten - do not over tighten - I use a 19 mm socket and hand tighten.

Tools used

  1. Jack and Jack stands to support car.
  2. Electrical Impact wrench to loosed and remove wheel nuts - 19 mm long Socket
  3. Torque wrench
  4. Drill
  5. Assorted drill bits to remove 6 mm holding screw
  6. Assorted tools - screwdrivers and pliers
  7. Compressor and air gun could / also have used air impact wrench
  8. Assorted spring and normal washers and spare Wheel (lug) Nut
  9. Anti-seizure paste

Total time replace stud was less than 40 mim - took me longer to write this post. - excluding time for 2 nd trip to exchange incorrect sized wheel stud.
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19 mm socket is 0.74803, darn close to 0.750" that has been the long time standard for lug nuts, or 3/4". Don't ask me why spark plugs and tires use both English and metric measurements, always been this way. Well maybe not on my 1930 Olds.

Two key reasons to replace a hub stub, most common is idiotic shops that use a 600 ft.-lb impact wrench to tighten them. Second is road salt. Even worse than trying to remove the lug nuts is that the wheel itself is solidly rusted to the hub.

Ha, my brother-in-law came over with his brand new 82 T-Bird to put on mud flaps, Cruze is the same way, selling a brand new vehicle that requires the GM name, splash shield, actually stone shields, if you don't, your brand new vehicle will look like it was fired upon with a 12 gauge shot gun.

Got off the lug nuts on his car, but in no way could I remove the tire, rusted on solid. Since it was a brand new car, said, take it back to your dealer. They couldn't do it either, had to replace the entire rear axle with new wheels and tires on it.

Anti-seize sure helps, but plating would be far more lasting, dey don't do dis.

Rust can also get into the splines of that lug nut causing it to spin, even replacing it with a new one doesn't help, inside of the hub is rounded off. Got by with older clunkers, by using flat washers and a lug nut to hold it in straight, and tack welding the rear of the stud to the hub. But first had to remove the yoke first, not a nice way to spend a Saturday.

Least they are not advertising a vehicle is your second highest investment, ha, loses half of its value the instant you drive it off the lot! See most ads today pushing HP, how much HP do you need when they are dropping the speed limits down to 10 mph?

What was your reason for having to replace a stud?
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Hi - reason for replacing stud was that thread had been damaged due to a being badly cross threaded (our mistake - learning experience (sounds better than "stupidity")) and final broke. :wub:
Ha, tried to find a reason how an oil pan drain plug is cross threaded. On an old throwaway away one was to put the plug in my 560 ft-lb impact wrench and drive it in at a slight angle. Guess you could do this with a lug nut as well.

Finger starting doesn't work for me for cross threating.
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