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Repost: Negative battery terminal ground wire broken at connecting tip

11665 Views 32 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Blasirl
Note: This is a repost from the Gen 1Powertrain forums as the issue is electrical wires. Apologies for the repost

I have a 2011 Chevy Cruze LT and today while cleaning the negative battery terminal with a battery brush, the ground wire that is bolted to the terminal broke off. It was very flimsy and makes me wonder how it held up all along. Can that wire be replaced without going to a mechanic and I observed it goes under the fuse box. I don’t know the exact term used for that wire, but as it is broken I am not sure I can start the car. I could not find any videos or posts where the ground wire tip broke off. Any info and part number with pointers on how to fix would be appreciated

Adding the image should make the post clearer.

I am not sure if this wire goes all the way to the alternator or is connected to the fuse at the top the battery positive terminal

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Hi,
1. you may be able to buy a large enough "eye" crimp connector to fit over and crimp onto the existing broken one. Peel back and carefully cut away the shrink wrap to reveal the existing broken connector and shop for a connector that will fit over it. Buy a crimping tool, hacking this connection may lead to ground problems. I don't think the broken connector can be removed from the wire easily and without chewing up the wire itself.
fyi - If you cut the broken connector off the ground wire, there may not be enough length to reach the battery terminal. It looks like the connector and it's strain-relief(keeps wire rigid so it doesn't drape onto battery top edge-i think) is almost 2"
2. if you can't get a good connection with the 1st method, buy an identical eye connector as the broken one. Follow the wire down to the bottom corner of fuse box. The wire(harness) is held in place by a wire tie secured to the bottom edge of the fuse box.(pic) If you release or carefully cut the plastic wire tie(mine is grey), there may be sufficient additional slack in the harness to reach the battery terminal, then you can cut off the broken connector and crimp on a new one.
I have not done this repair, offering advice after looking at my negative battery connection and "eyeballing it".

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I would carefully cut the old connector off while trying not to damage the wire too much (assuming you cannot replace the whole cable). If it is long enough, just cut the wire and restrip. I would not under any circumstance recrimp over the old terminal.
@touches @Blasirl
Yeah I should have tied the 'recrimp over a crimp' suggestion in with "hacking" but it sure doesn't read like that...my bad.
Not a permanent fix or 1st course of action, but as a last resort to get to the parts store and back before cutting the wire.
 
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Someone on the forum who has real diagnostic experience would be better at helping you with the code but...

p00b4 is "radiator coolant temp sensor circuit high".

The sensor itself is easy to replace and $12 on amazon...there are 2 temp sensors; rtc(radiator temp sensor) and etc(engine temp sensor) 2 different part numbers even though they look identical.
One plugs into the coolant outlet(etc)drivers side of the engine, the other is in the passenger side edge of radiator(rtc). each has an electrical connector. Coolant has to be drained to replace them so you don't end up with a coolant mess.

I doubt it's anything to do with the actual connector you repaired, maybe having the battery disconnected for a while, but again, wait for a diagnostic expert type member to reply.
Don't despair! I thought I was the only 1 car household, it's a pain

The ring terminal was long enough to crimp and I connected wire to the negative terminal. After installing the battery, I get a P00B4 DTC service definitions not found error code. I am just tired of having one problem after another with this Cruze and being a student the costs to buy the tools and the replacement parts are taking a hard hit on my finances. Is this a major issue? Is it due to the ring connector crimping or any wrong sizes?
 

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Perhaps older battery? Maybe was it sufficient and recharged somewhat when car was being driven but lost too much charge when it was disconnected?

But... AC sensors, and coolant sensors, and weird wipers/wiper fluid pump, and door entry beep issue all within a day or so?

Should probably retrace the ground wire steps or anything electrical work to rule out a random mistake of some kind; think 'obvious 1st'- like-all connectors connected, or is something shorted and blew fuse(s), coolant spillage into a connector, or rats ate my fusebox...(sorry, you can see acorns under my fusebox in the pic), then move on from there.
 

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You can check for blown fuses on the items that don't work in the fuse box, the fuse locations are listed in the box cover. There is a fuse puller in the box or use fingers. Get some replacements 1st, in case one(fuse) gets lost or falls into an unreachable space...
Check for loose connections only on the things you worked on 1st, then move on from there.
When you removed the battery, could have inadvertently caused a short but prob would have noticed that.
Replace it? If it's pretty new and checks out ok...idk but if it's 4 years old maybe check walmart price, I've had good luck with them.
 

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Test them. If you don't want to remove them, at least test for continuity.
So prob easiest way to test the coolant sensors while installed would be to buy a spare sensor connector w pigtail attached and connect multimeter to the wires? Have to find that connector, dealer parts dept may be easiest. Maybe amazon.
Morning cold engine here in the northeast at about 40 degrees, warm engine 200-225 approx.
my sensors are new but I'm interested in the test experience
 
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