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Hi,
1. you may be able to buy a large enough "eye" crimp connector to fit over and crimp onto the existing broken one. Peel back and carefully cut away the shrink wrap to reveal the existing broken connector and shop for a connector that will fit over it. Buy a crimping tool, hacking this connection may lead to ground problems. I don't think the broken connector can be removed from the wire easily and without chewing up the wire itself.
fyi - If you cut the broken connector off the ground wire, there may not be enough length to reach the battery terminal. It looks like the connector and it's strain-relief(keeps wire rigid so it doesn't drape onto battery top edge-i think) is almost 2"
2. if you can't get a good connection with the 1st method, buy an identical eye connector as the broken one. Follow the wire down to the bottom corner of fuse box. The wire(harness) is held in place by a wire tie secured to the bottom edge of the fuse box.(pic) If you release or carefully cut the plastic wire tie(mine is grey), there may be sufficient additional slack in the harness to reach the battery terminal, then you can cut off the broken connector and crimp on a new one.
I have not done this repair, offering advice after looking at my negative battery connection and "eyeballing it".

View attachment 285624

Thank you for a detailed step by step help and I very much appreciate it. Like you said and as others have also chimed in, I will try out a ring type or eye terminal similar to the broken one. The gauge size is what I am debating between 12-10 AWG and 22-18 AWG and is it okay to replace with a larger size than the broken connector? Would it be fine to buy a similar size gauge wire ( gauge equal to the terminal connector) to crimp in case the length is too short. The length was another factor I was doubting and your pic on where the wire leads to helps a lot.

That's what I would do

Yes I am going to get a ring terminal and try out crimping like @12ecofamilycar suggested

 

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One thought I had on this was to look for a wire that already has a terminal on it. You might need to buy something more complex and just cut off that piece. For example, I've seen some battery cables that had a small (eg, 12 gauge) wire with terminal already spliced into the cable. You could cut that section off and splice it onto the end of you broken wire and avoid dealing with crimping.

If you try to put a 22-18 gauge terminal on that wire, it may be too small. That wire is more like 12 gauge from what I can see.

My usual advice on this is to solder all connections, including the crimps. That's a sure way to avoid corrosion later affecting the crimp, or the crimp coming undone.

If you cannot solder, maybe you have a friend who can do it in exchange for a 12-pack of his/her favorite beverage.

Doug

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That's a great idea, unfortunately the auto parts stores near my place namely O'reillys and Advance auto parts do not carry a simple 12 Gauge ring terminal and had no clue about battery cables with terminals attached. I have ordered 12 AWG ring terminals from Amazon and being my only vehicle, I am stuck waiting at home for these parts to arrive with the auto shops above ruled out. Like you said the stock wire seemed to have the connector already attached to the wire. I do have a 16 AWG fork connector but no sure if I can use them on this wire and if it can carry the required amps.

I would carefully cut the old connector off while trying not to damage the wire too much (assuming you cannot replace the whole cable). If it is long enough, just cut the wire and restrip. I would not under any circumstance recrimp over the old terminal.

Yes sir, I have cut the connector and have stripped the wire and like you said if it is long enough I would just crimp them.

Attaching some pictures for any reference

This was the connector type and ring terminal just sort of disintegrated and came apart.

@touches @Blasirl
Yeah I should have tied the 'recrimp over a crimp' suggestion in with "hacking" but it sure doesn't read like that...my bad.
Not a permanent fix or 1st course of action, but as a last resort to get to the parts store and back before cutting the wire.

No problem at all, and your picture helped me a lot and any guidelines in this forum is a learning experience

 

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The ring terminal was long enough to crimp and I connected wire to the negative terminal. After installing the battery, I get a P00B4 DTC service definitions not found error code. I am just tired of having one problem after another with this Cruze and being a student the costs to buy the tools and the replacement parts are taking a hard hit on my finances. Is this a major issue? Is it due to the ring connector crimping or any wrong sizes?

 

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Someone on the forum who has real diagnostic experience would be better at helping you with the code but...

p00b4 is "radiator coolant temp sensor circuit high".

The sensor itself is easy to replace and $12 on amazon...there are 2 temp sensors; rtc(radiator temp sensor) and etc(engine temp sensor) 2 different part numbers even though they look identical.
One plugs into the coolant outlet(etc)drivers side of the engine, the other is in the passenger side edge of radiator(rtc). each has an electrical connector. Coolant has to be drained to replace them so you don't end up with a coolant mess.

I doubt it's anything to do with the actual connector you repaired, maybe having the battery disconnected for a while, but again, wait for a diagnostic expert type member to reply.
Don't despair! I thought I was the only 1 car household, it's a pain

Thank again for giving pointers on the parts, this has been a nightmare month, I replaced the valve gasket and installed the PCV V3 fix kit, changed the MAF Sensor, replaced the spark plugs,, negative battery cable terminal. Now these problems again!

I went to an auto shop to get a scan and they came up with the following codes:

P00B4

• DTC Descriptor DTC P00B3 00 - Radiator Coolant Temperature (RCT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
• DTC Descriptor DTC P00B4 00 - Radiator Coolant Temperature (RCT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

P0532

• DTC P0530 03 - AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
• DTC P0530 07 - AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage
• DTC P0532 00 - AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
• DTC P0533 00 - AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage

I just noticed my windshield wipers do not work and the windshield washer fluid does not blow as well. I am not getting a beep sound when I lock the doors of my car using the key.

 

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Causes for this code may include:

Defective radiator or other coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
Dirty/plugged sensor pickup
Sensor O-ring/Gasket leaking
Broken or damaged wiring harness
Fuse ECM issue
Pin/connector problem (corrosion, melting, broken lock tab etc.)

Read more at: P00B4 Radiator Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit High

Both temp sensors:

or

or

Should I replace the sensors even if I don't see the AC Off due to High temp error message? Are the windshield wipers and no beeping sound when locked tied to this or is it another electrical problem I need to check?

 

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Perhaps older battery? Maybe was it sufficient and recharged somewhat when car was being driven but lost too much charge when it was disconnected?

But... AC sensors, and coolant sensors, and weird wipers/wiper fluid pump, and door entry beep issue all within a day or so?

Should probably retrace the ground wire steps or anything electrical work to rule out a random mistake of some kind; think 'obvious 1st'- like-all connectors connected, or is something shorted and blew fuse(s), coolant spillage into a connector, or rats ate my fusebox...(sorry, you can see acorns under my fusebox in the pic), then move on from there.

Exactly that was my first thought, all these problems within a day and the windshield and horn beeping seems weird. My battery was dead and had to be recharged, it was tested today and came out okay. I will retrace the steps to the wires, but how do I check for shorted and blown fuses? Where can I find the wiper fluid pump and wiper motor to check for loose connections?

Should I as well get a new battery? I have ordered the sensors from Amazon after seeing your post, but I am still unsure as my wipers and door sensors being off!

 

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Hi, just checking in, any luck with your wipers, washer pump, entry beep?

Hello, firstly my apologies as I had to get back to work using the local bus and Uber and could not focus on my car. Your post on backtracking was a godsend and lifesaver. Today I did exactly like you mentioned and found a loose bolt in the engine fuse box!!. I tightened it and the fuse location chart given by @Blasirl was of immense help as I could track the wiper fuse location. I unplugged and blew off some dust and plugged them back in and started the car. To my wonderful surprise the wipers started working along with the washer fluid and the beeps returned and importantly the check engine light disappeared. I test drove before I could rush in and post it here and so far I didn't get the lights back on. The two sensors I ordered from Amazon and also heeding your advice I got a set of fuses as well have not been used. I may change the sensors but will defer it as I have had enough of time spent on this car and have to catch up with work. Only the power seat seems to be working erratically and it no longer raises up or down. I don't see it as much of a hindrance but will look into it at a later time. But more importantly thank you so very much for being there and helping me to get back on this vehicle. thanks to you, @Blasirl,@plano-doug and others who commented and without this forum I would have been lost for options to think and work. Thank you all once again

 

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There are at least two recent threads on fixing the seat. I will see if I can find them.

EDIT:

Here is one and it refers to another in it.

2011 LTZ Power Seat Issue

My wife's Cruze recently developed an issue with the drivers side front power seat. The base front lift has quit working. It sounds like the motor is working and it just clicks like a cam gear is broken. The bases rear lift works fine and forward/back is working fine. Before I pull the seat...

www.cruzetalk.com

There are at least two recent threads on fixing the seat. I will see if I can find them.

EDIT:

Here is one and it refers to another in it.

2011 LTZ Power Seat Issue

My wife's Cruze recently developed an issue with the drivers side front power seat. The base front lift has quit working. It sounds like the motor is working and it just clicks like a cam gear is broken. The bases rear lift works fine and forward/back is working fine. Before I pull the seat...

www.cruzetalk.com

Thank you once again @Blasirl . I saw the video about checking for the fuse, is that a circuit breaker fuse type? I am not sure if a standard fuse can be swapped in its place. From the threads I could not understand from the first reading on what to check, but I will go through again and try out the methods that have been posted

 

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From the video, I blew up the pic and got some part numbers.

View attachment 285733

The 8-character (13898717) doesn't come up at the two GM parts sites I checked, but Google finds it at Amazon and eBay.

The Buss p/n on Google hits the same Amazon and eBay pages

The description says it's a breaker, but the mechanics of that are not clear - I don't see a lever. Perhaps the end pops out when it's thrown?

Or maybe it's the kind that times out and resets itself.

HTH.

Doug

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I searched in Amazon like '14V 25A fuse' and got a mini circuit breaker type, not sure if it has the same mechanics though

 

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Fuse....# 6 Part # 19116527
2011 Chevrolet Cruze 1LT 4DR BLOCK-I/P JUNCTION

Or this 25A Mini ATM Automotive Circuit Breaker Blade Fuse 14VDC Car Boat Van | eBay
View attachment 285749

Oh this is amazing find, How did you come across these diagrams? Thank you very much, I'll look into these