[MyShibbyEco]

Been having a consistent blue smoke at start up that lasts 30 seconds and smells like rich fuel or slight oil burning. It does this almost every time as long as the engine isn't full temp. If it sits for 30 minutes it'll do it again. Occasionally, when coming to a quick stop (borderline emergency braking), then trying to do a quick acceleration (nothing crazy, just more than typical) there will be a lot of smoke and a very bad burning smell (not sure if it's oil or smoked clutch smell but the amount of smoke makes me think fuel/oil), combined with the car chugging a couple times before catching itself and actually accelerating.

There are no codes, no lights or dash messages, and it doesn't appear to be burning oil or losing any from leaks. There is coolant in the overflow tank, although the smell is definitely not a coolant smell, more of a burning fuel/oil smell. Scanner says boost and MAF rate are within what I've always seen during normal driving. MPG is still good at 35-38 combined, 43+ on highway.

I know there's been issues with turbos going out, among other things, but wondering if people have clues on where to start, what to look for, etc., before I tear into it and examine everything. I'll probably pull the catalytic converter off and see if the turbo impeller feels loose or is covered in oil, and put a bore scope down the spark plug holes to see if anything looks amiss.

 

[JLL]

I know there's been issues with turbos going out, among other things, but wondering if people have clues on where to start,

When diagnosing an issue, always repair the known issues first. Then continue diagnostics.

Also I recommend performing a compression test so you have an idea of the condition of the internals anytime your dealing with burning oil.

Do you have any trouble codes?

 

[MyShibbyEco]

When diagnosing an issue, always repair the known issues first. Then continue diagnostics.

Yes, I typically follow this methodology when fixing my vehicles. I'm in the pre-diagnostic stage while I wait until I have time to tear into it. That's why I'm asking for typical things to look for related to possibly burning oil prior to tearing into it

Also I recommend performing a compression test so you have an idea of the condition of the internals anytime your dealing with burning oil.

Good idea, will do that soon.

Do you have any trouble codes?

From my initial post:

There are no codes, no lights or dash messages

 

[Thebigzeus]

Sounds like this is a good place to start:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10070046-0335.pdf

 

[MyShibbyEco]

Thanks, but I installed the pcv reroute kit and it has a new valve cover.

 

[Thebigzeus]

How long has it been in use, the valve may need cleaned depending on which version of the kit you have.

 

[MyShibbyEco]

Installed the kit a couple months ago, version 3. Actually this all started almost exactly when I installed it. Before the install I went on a 6 hour trip, came back to a bad pcv valve that sucked a bunch of oil into the engine. Replaced the valve cover and installed the kit, and ever since it's been running really rich and smoking.

Had some time to investigate today. Checked the throttle body inlet, a lot of oil, enough to soak a paper towel. Each spark plug looks terrible from burning oil and was wet with oil. Looked at each cylinder with a bore scope, all are caked with soot and carbon. I think it's been burning oil a lot longer than I knew.

Also did a compression test, cylinder one is 20% off from the others. Done on a cold engine, all spark plugs removed, 10 second crank.

Test 1: 205, 241, 251, 237
Test 2: 210, 240, 256, 240
Test 3: 210, 243, 252, 240

Is there a definitive way to see if the turbo seals are going? I plan to take the exhaust side off to check the play in the turbine, but not sure if that's a good test on these engines.

 

[JLL]

Installed the kit a couple months ago, version 3. Actually this all started almost exactly when I installed it. Before the install I went on a 6 hour trip, came back to a bad pcv valve that sucked a bunch of oil into the engine. Replaced the valve cover and installed the kit, and ever since it's been running really rich and smoking.

Had some time to investigate today. Checked the throttle body inlet, a lot of oil, enough to soak a paper towel. Each spark plug looks terrible from burning oil and was wet with oil. Looked at each cylinder with a bore scope, all are caked with soot and carbon. I think it's been burning oil a lot longer than I knew.

Also did a compression test, cylinder one is 20% off from the others. Done on a cold engine, all spark plugs removed, 10 second crank.

Test 1: 205, 241, 251, 237
Test 2: 210, 240, 256, 240
Test 3: 210, 243, 252, 240

Is there a definitive way to see if the turbo seals are going? I plan to take the exhaust side off to check the play in the turbine, but not sure if that's a good test on these engines.

Compression variance per cylinder should be a maximum of 14 psi. The specification ProDemand lists for compression is 173 - 203 psi. There could be carbon build up on the crown of those pistons though causing higher readings.

 

[Thebigzeus]

Installed the kit a couple months ago, version 3. Actually this all started almost exactly when I installed it. Before the install I went on a 6 hour trip, came back to a bad pcv valve that sucked a bunch of oil into the engine. Replaced the valve cover and installed the kit, and ever since it's been running really rich and smoking.

Interesting, may be worth looping @XtremeRevolution in then to get his thoughts as he makes the kits.

 

[MyShibbyEco]

I don't think it's the fault of the reroute kit. It just shows the symptoms of other failing parts now that the crank case is venting correctly.

I don't think there's that much carbon to make the compression readings be 50 psi over. There's probably half a millimeter of build up. One of the pistons had the carbon flake away at the edge and I could see how thick it was. What I found interesting is the piston with the wettest spark plug read the highest. Not sure if the extra oil was doing a bit of sealing on the rings. I might spray a light amount of oil in cylinder 1 to see if it comes up and verify the rings are not sealing as well as they could.

 

[JLL]

I don't think it's the fault of the reroute kit. It just shows the symptoms of other failing parts now that the crank case is venting correctly.

I don't think there's that much carbon to make the compression readings be 50 psi over. There's probably half a millimeter of build up. One of the pistons had the carbon flake away at the edge and I could see how thick it was. What I found interesting is the piston with the wettest spark plug read the highest. Not sure if the extra oil was doing a bit of sealing on the rings. I might spray a light amount of oil in cylinder 1 to see if it comes up and verify the rings are not sealing as well as they could.

Wet spark plug? Spark plug ain't supposed to be wet. I've had carboned up spark plugs, but they've always been dry.

 

[MyShibbyEco]

The end of the plug itself wasn't wet, but the threads very much were. Just lots of carbon build up on the tips.

 

[JLL]

The end of the plug itself wasn't wet, but the threads very much were. Just lots of carbon build up on the tips.

What condition are the coil pack boots in. My plugs are dry from top to bottom.

 

[MyShibbyEco]

The boots and coils themselves are very clean, same with the journal the plugs sit in, basically untouched aluminum. The porcelain part of the plugs is also very clean, almost new. Just the spark end is really gunked up and threads have oil on them.

I still haven't had time to look at the turbo, although I did find another thread where someone's turbo was cracked and leaking oil into places so that gives me something to look for when I do take it out.

 

[JLL]

Before you go to all the trouble of taking the turbo off, I'd recommend taking a look in the upper charge pipe for oil. If there is not oil in the charge pipe, there not really a reason to take the turbo off. If oil is getting into the cylinder it's going to be entering through the intake port, not the exhaust port.

 

[MyShibbyEco]

Took the catalytic converter off to look at the backside of the turbo. Cracked housing, and it's hard to see in the picture but behind the impeller vanes is a lot of baked on and fresh oil. My guess is when sitting the car leaked oil into the turbo intake and exhaust sides, causing the rich smoke at start up. Also explains the burning smell. My initial diagnosis was taking the heat shield off the exhaust manifold, and watched smoke come out of the turbo/catalytic converter clamp that smelled like burning oil. So this one can be put to rest. Hopefully this helps anyone out in the future.