I'm initially intend to fix it, it is my work commuter. Has been very reliable rig for my 40 miles a day work commute. I'm going to start taking it apart this weekend to see what panels, brackets and stuff I'll need to order.
It is already a rebuilt titled vehicle, so I only had liability on it. I bought it in 2020 for $7500 with 53k miles on it, it now has 83k miles.I would not report it. Even if you have good comp insurance they will usually write it up as $4K in damages and then salvage title it. Then repairing will be very expensive with junk yard parts and DIY labor not accepted by state. Everything must be new and shop installed at shop labor rates with special inspection at end. Trying to pass the cost to the insurance company can backfire quickly and hurt you financially long term, nevermind the risk of higher rates. It usually takes a year to get an R title and it wont be eligible for ridesharing and will lose thousands in value. That damage is limited to parts that can be replaced in a weekend for under $300 if you nab a junkyard donor. It would be much worse if you hit hard enough to tweak the subframe. The strut would likely be trashed and wheel ripped off long before the subframe would be doneso.
I'd absolutely repair it and keep rolling. I'd buy it as is in a heartbeat if you dont want to. Good luck.
Yes, I'm trying to source major chassis parts, I'm sure I'm gonna need lots of small parts that are damaged underneath as I start taking it apart. Check engine light came on together with service DPF system immediately after the crash.Like boathook said, I’d buy that in a heartbeat as is, along with probably a ton of people here. If it’s just cosmetic, (probably trans cooler and other misc things too), you should patch her up if that is within your means
No more tunes available when I got this unit. The Trifeta tune I have is using all factory hardware to give it a wee bit more oomph. Has worked well besides the turbo lag from the get go.Thought it was deleted?
That is just the fan itself, I need the WHOLE shroud in addition.The ACDelco 1581771 (OEM part# 13338843) is in-stock on RockAuto, but it doesn't show up in the catalog for the 2014 Diesel, and I had to search for it by part number. Around $400 with shipping.
That's the exact codes I get. I did install the temp sensor, that was easy peasy. Found these blind passengers in one of the underneath noise insulator panels after hearing bunch of tiny tiny squeaks.The grille shutter motor without the actual shutters will still cause a P059F/P069E code, because the motor senses the position for open and closed shutters. I've seen 2 methods for deleting the shutters over the years. 1 involves a resistor wired in place of the actual motor. The other involves fabricating stops to attach to the motor, which imitate the position of the open and closed shutter positions.
Ambient Temp Sensor attaches to the back of the driver-side fog light bezel.