[Boathook36]

I would not report it. Even if you have good comp insurance they will usually write it up as $4K in damages and then salvage title it. Then repairing will be very expensive with junk yard parts and DIY labor not accepted by state. Everything must be new and shop installed at shop labor rates with special inspection at end. Trying to pass the cost to the insurance company can backfire quickly and hurt you financially long term, nevermind the risk of higher rates. It usually takes a year to get an R title and it wont be eligible for ridesharing and will lose thousands in value. That damage is limited to parts that can be replaced in a weekend for under $300 if you nab a junkyard donor. It would be much worse if you hit hard enough to tweak the subframe. The strut would likely be trashed and wheel ripped off long before the subframe would be doneso.

I'd absolutely repair it and keep rolling. I'd buy it as is in a heartbeat if you dont want to. Good luck.

 

[Boathook36]

The shroud is overrated. Id just mount the bare fan on aluminum bar stock. You'll get a code without any fan but no code or overheating as long as its there. Heck you could just set it off to the side and let it point up at the hood.

I pulled the fuse for the fan and drove the car for months in the hottest weather we get without any issue. It was August in PA so 95 degree F days with the AC blasting. Diesels don't really need a fan. The only area the gets noticeably hot is the heat from the AC system, and even then only if you're parked and idle for a very long time.

(When the fan controller fuse is pulled the ECM seems to cut the AC clutch output, so the compressor clutch was jumpered. We really hated the fan cycling on high all night right outside our bedroom window).

 

[Boathook36]

The grille shutter motor without the actual shutters will still cause a P059F/P069E code, because the motor senses the position for open and closed shutters. I've seen 2 methods for deleting the shutters over the years. 1 involves a resistor wired in place of the actual motor. The other involves fabricating stops to attach to the motor, which imitate the position of the open and closed shutter positions.

My shutters had been replaced recently but the pin crushed down inside the plug. It broke as soon as I tried to straighten the pin. I then sliced open the plastic casing and wired further back with a poor connection. It worked for a few weeks and its intermittent currently. I found out that the harness was cut and shorted out above the headlight when the MAP sensor stopped working. It shares the fuse with the shutters.

I took the motor off the shutter assembly to cut it open and it now lives up by the battery tray. I marked the open and closed positions with a sharpie line. When the car starts the shutters cycle from open to close and you can see the center spinning. If its unplugged or the fuse is broken you get the P069F "Fuel Pump Requested Illumination" code. If it is missing the hard stops it jams up and you get P059F "Active Grill Air Shutter "A" Performance/ Stuck Off". I found that giving the motor rotor a little twist with screwdriver a few degrees is enough for the code to clear and the stepper motor is happy again. If you don't hit the temperature threshold or restart the car it will stay clear. It seems to cycle without jamming up and throwing the code at least half the time. It was enough to get it through the state inspection last year.

We just bought a second diesel Cruze so I'm looking forward to getting accurate test results before my next state inspection due in December. My hacked up unit is very fragile and flakes out often. My hunch is that a 1.5K resistor between the high voltage and the signal line will trick it into a positive condition and prevent any future codes. If anyone else has done this before I'd love to hear the details.