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Rip Cruze Diesel due to deer

6K views 41 replies 11 participants last post by  Rebooter 
#1 ·
In the middle of a freaking blizzard, a doe did like most of her kin.......didn't know where to eat, and was fecking around on roads in the middle of a whiteout blizzard, and BAM......flung it 30+ yards across 4 lane highway into the ditch opposite side. And I even have a dashcam, but the cam decided to portion up the size of the file and take a 30sec break right before I hit the dear and started recording as I turned into the center lane for my 1st emergency stop.
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#3 ·
Yikes! That might very well be fixable.
 
#4 ·
I'm initially intend to fix it, it is my work commuter. Has been very reliable rig for my 40 miles a day work commute. I'm going to start taking it apart this weekend to see what panels, brackets and stuff I'll need to order.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I would not report it. Even if you have good comp insurance they will usually write it up as $4K in damages and then salvage title it. Then repairing will be very expensive with junk yard parts and DIY labor not accepted by state. Everything must be new and shop installed at shop labor rates with special inspection at end. Trying to pass the cost to the insurance company can backfire quickly and hurt you financially long term, nevermind the risk of higher rates. It usually takes a year to get an R title and it wont be eligible for ridesharing and will lose thousands in value. That damage is limited to parts that can be replaced in a weekend for under $300 if you nab a junkyard donor. It would be much worse if you hit hard enough to tweak the subframe. The strut would likely be trashed and wheel ripped off long before the subframe would be doneso.

I'd absolutely repair it and keep rolling. I'd buy it as is in a heartbeat if you dont want to. Good luck.
 
#9 ·
I would not report it. Even if you have good comp insurance they will usually write it up as $4K in damages and then salvage title it. Then repairing will be very expensive with junk yard parts and DIY labor not accepted by state. Everything must be new and shop installed at shop labor rates with special inspection at end. Trying to pass the cost to the insurance company can backfire quickly and hurt you financially long term, nevermind the risk of higher rates. It usually takes a year to get an R title and it wont be eligible for ridesharing and will lose thousands in value. That damage is limited to parts that can be replaced in a weekend for under $300 if you nab a junkyard donor. It would be much worse if you hit hard enough to tweak the subframe. The strut would likely be trashed and wheel ripped off long before the subframe would be doneso.

I'd absolutely repair it and keep rolling. I'd buy it as is in a heartbeat if you dont want to. Good luck.
It is already a rebuilt titled vehicle, so I only had liability on it. I bought it in 2020 for $7500 with 53k miles on it, it now has 83k miles.
 
#11 ·
Yes, I'm trying to source major chassis parts, I'm sure I'm gonna need lots of small parts that are damaged underneath as I start taking it apart. Check engine light came on together with service DPF system immediately after the crash.
 
#16 ·
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Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Hood Automotive design


It smashed the condenser, inter cooler and the radiator all in one helping. And off course all the small trinkets in between of plastic parts and things. I've got a hood, fender and bumper cover. But I think radiator and intercooler and condenser might be diesel specific?
 
#24 ·
Sigh found radiator shroud and fan was crushed too.........only parts it shares it with is the equal rare Buick Verano 2.0 Turbo and $500 on national bakorder.
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#25 · (Edited)
****, boneyard or maybe oversees. Shop can’t fix the radiator huh?

Edit: 11 in stock here (rad) for $137

this fan assembly says it fits a ‘15 diesel. I’d double check the p/n though $161, usually $363

 
#30 ·
The shroud is overrated. Id just mount the bare fan on aluminum bar stock. You'll get a code without any fan but no code or overheating as long as its there. Heck you could just set it off to the side and let it point up at the hood.

I pulled the fuse for the fan and drove the car for months in the hottest weather we get without any issue. It was August in PA so 95 degree F days with the AC blasting. Diesels don't really need a fan. The only area the gets noticeably hot is the heat from the AC system, and even then only if you're parked and idle for a very long time.

(When the fan controller fuse is pulled the ECM seems to cut the AC clutch output, so the compressor clutch was jumpered. We really hated the fan cycling on high all night right outside our bedroom window).
 
#34 ·
Nice work there!
 
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