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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thinking ahead, winter is not too far here in Canada, so I shoot out my concern : considering that a CTD is built a lot differently than any other gasoline or old diesel generation car, is it safe to perform a rust proofing under neath the car? Thanks :)
 

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Seems to me that the owner's manual contains language regarding rustproofing that says 'none is required and none is recommended'.

There was a time when some folks were using a product called Fluid Film but no CTD that I'm aware of.
 
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The key is with what and how its done....some things are actually worse than leaving it alone.
 
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Ha, from the Book of Nick, Chapter 1, Verse 1:

"From rust its made, and to rust, it shall return"

That's the key problem with our vehicles, if they added a bit of nickel to the iron and galvanized it, would last a heck of a lot longer. Use to do this in pre-1949 vehicles, but quit doing this, hurt new car sales. Even found an old tin can in the ditch that was exposed to many years of salt, still looked like new. And tin cans are throwaway, but have a FDA that wants to prevent food poisoning.

Iron and steel is made from is not found in nature, but ferrous oxide is, but alloys were discovered to prevent it from switching back to ferrous oxide to delay oxidation. Calcium chloride sure doesn't help, acts like an accelerator. Aluminum is not found in nature either, but aluminum oxide sure is, and without special alloys will return back to aluminum oxide.

Throwaway aluminum foil is far superior to any aluminum you will find in your vehicle, use the cheapest crap. Solvent based paints did offer better protection, EPA banned these, all water based primers and paints are exclusively use.

In the last 67 years, key reason for dumping a vehicle, was oxidation. Just got rid of a "good runner" last week due to severe oxidation. Occurs from the inside out.

Ha, been saying this for years, if you start off with a piece of sh!t, no matter how well you design it, machine it, form it, cover it with pretty colors, its still a piece of sh!t.

Cure to making these pieces of sh!t for safety is to make them absorb energy in a progressive fashion, so don't drive them into a tree, the unibody is the largest throwaway part in today's vehicles.

If you think you are paying a fortune for these pieces of sh!t, add in the cost of insurance and the effects of your gas tax dollar buying road salt. We are paying a lot more for these things than you think.
 

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Mine was krown'ed by professional brand new. Going with fluid film myself this year. We have all the equipment at work because we fluid film everything. Our service pickups are approaching 15 years old have just had exterior surface rust touched up. The kind that doesn't come back if done right because none of them are rusting from the inside out like 99% of rusty vehicles on the road. Frames are showing some age but not anywhere near as bad as if you had done nothing.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that done properly and sprayed inside of all body panels, it absolutely works and is worth the effort. Will it keep your vehicle rust free forever here? No but if you want to get more then 10 years out of your car before it's a complete rust bucket it's a necessity. Of course GM discourages it in the manual! They want to sell new cars. Just like the transmission fluid being a lifetime fill. Give me a break.
 

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Yeah, have to undercoat and rustproof your vehicles. Absolutely insane if you don't unless you live in a low humidity area. Cars here already have rocker panels rusting out after 5 years. There's trucks that are 5 years old with box sides rusting. All of these vehicles would still look great if they were undercoated from new like mine.
 

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Had my 2013 gasoline cruze rustproofed when I bought her. It came with a 10 year 100k mile warranty. Yes I know GM has the 70k warranty which is nice but here in the salt belt I thought rustproofing to be a good idea at the time. But then again a lot of car parts now are plastic. Plus it might help a tad on resale value too.
 

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Where I live you resale value stays way up if you can prove its been rustproofed since new.

Not hard to prove either, you can tell just by looking under a vehicle that wasn't rustproofed since new. Even one winter here is enough to start the insatiable rust problems.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I installed the hitch on my CTD I've noticed the bumper back support is aluminum and not metal like I thought, so I don't see the point to make additional access holes into the rear bumper in order to rustproof the rear end. Also door panels and rocker panels i will spray it myself, just under neat the car will be done by a 3rd party. What chemical is Krown using or some other recommended rust proof sprays are best for our CTD? Maybe GM has a better stuff at their parts and accessories counter?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 

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Krown is awesome, you can buy their stuff to spray yourself. However for the $140 they charge to do the whole car, if just let them do it all.

Fluid film is excellent but pricey. Our department of transportation uses it exclusively because of how well it protects the salt trucks. Basically anything you spray in needs to be thin and it can't be runny because it will run off.

Stay away from rust check, sorry guys but every car I see that's been rust checked since new is on it's way to a crusher with the body rotting off it. I sprayed my snow blower with it so that there would be a light haze over it for storage and all it did was run off and across my garage floor. Don't use used oil either, rots out bushings.
 

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Stay away from rust check, sorry guys but every car I see that's been rust checked since new is on it's way to a crusher with the body rotting off it. I sprayed my snow blower with it so that there would be a light haze over it for storage and all it did was run off and across my garage floor. Don't use used oil either, rots out bushings.
I had my Cobalt done at a Rust Check shop when I first got it and was quite happy with it.
 

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Where I live you resale value stays way up if you can prove its been rustproofed since new.

Not hard to prove either, you can tell just by looking under a vehicle that wasn't rustproofed since new. Even one winter here is enough to start the insatiable rust problems.
Mine was rust proofed before I drove it off the lot. The dealer didn't do it there but they had some local place rust proof it and added the cost to the car. I think it cost me $380? and I have the receipt in the glove box.
 

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I had my Cobalt done at a Rust Check shop when I first got it and was quite happy with it.
Oh it's nice while it's new. But it doesn't do what it's supposed to. I have a 2001 focus at my shop with rust check stickers every year and there's nothing left of it. So rotten we could barely get it on the hoist.
 

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I decided to bite the bullet and buy my own fluid film spray kit like the one we have at work. I hate going into work to do stuff if can be avoided. I got 5 gallons of the stuff with the kit which includes a nice air spray gun, and all the nozzles and tips needed to do it right. I'll try to snap some pictures or maybe make a little video in the DIY if I am not too covered in the stuff lol.

I'm going to spray my wife's 07' Civic too. It's never too late, even if rust has begun it can put it into remission. Oh and my Honda 928WAS snow blower will get the treatment too :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Any pics yet? Where did you buy the kit?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
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Any pics yet? Where did you buy the kit?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
No. waiting for the right combo of weather/ability to pressure wash the night before. I got mine from Kell Sport Products google it. Also google a coupon code as it worked and saved me 40 bucks. I upgraded to the pro gun and all attachments to go with it.
 

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Free*rustproofing seminar at Kory's!

*Free only to participants with a case of Canadian beer.
 
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I spray my cars down with wd-40. I buy a gallon in usa home depot for $21. Engine bay, electrical connectors, cables, underbody, calipers, etc. trick is to do it in the hot sun so it soaks in to the metal. Also do not use the car for 24 hours, and do not spray the exhaust, manifold or heat shields. I do this in the fall in the northeast usa.
 
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