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-Inspect your plug connector for any visual signs of corrosion or water. If none, then apply dielectric grease to keep the connector waterproof. The drivers side connector is directly in front of the windshield fluid reservoir and it is possible for the connector to get wet if one is not careful when adding fluid. Although the connector is supposed to be waterproof, parts do fail.

-Inspect the inside of the headlamp for moisture. If none visible be sure to carefully check for remnants such as dried up water spots on the lens or the reflector. Water evaporates with heat so if moisture is present inside the headlamps it could be collecting on the glass of the bulb causing premature failure with repeated cycles. Ensure that the rubber boot on the back of the headlamp is properly secure. If the outer ring is not exactly flush, any misalignment may be causing some unwanted moisture inside.

-Check your wire harness for any fraying or bent wires. Road vibration of partially severed wires can alter the voltage input causing spikes.

Out of curiosity, what brand were the original bulbs that failed? Were they the OE Sylvanias? I ask this because if they were cheap off brand bulbs than I'm not surprised that they would fail. This is of course assuming you were not the original owner.

Another factor to consider is that since our cars use the low beams as DRLs, this will greatly reduce their life. Yes the low beam is ran at a lower voltage but the filament is still being lit thus its life will be lesser than that of one who only turns on when its night time. This is accelerated for those aftermarket halogens that run at higher wattage. Their life expectancy is already far shorter than that of a standard halogen. Run them day & night and they will die a quick death.

Worst case scenario is that the alternator could be failing causing voltage spikes.
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