Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I don't know why I thought it would be a good idea.... But I was taking the screws off the engine fuse box. Two came off fine. 1 came out a bit and now won't go either in or out.

Now I have the following popping up like crazy and having horrible rough idle

-radiator coolant sensor circuit is high
  • please service ABS
  • please service power steering.
Frick what do I do!?!?

Update: radiator fan is now cranking to 100%. The other two temp sensors I was going to replace. But the radiator one is fine. abs and power steering keeping flashing at me non stop. Clearly I think the relays around making contact but that **** screw is just stuck there. Not loose it's firm but won't go either up nor down :(
 

· Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm confused. Why were you taking off the fuse box? What problem were you originally trying to fix? I'm assuming you disconnected the negative battery cable before doing anything?
I really don't see why that matters..... But to satisfy your question yes I disconnected the entire battery. I was trying to access the wiring to trace the trunk latch which was replaced with a new relay and new switch but was still randomly opening. I was trying to see any issues with it connecting to the box itself. The top two screws came off till loose. The last on came half way off the. Just got stuck there and now won't move up nor down just twists in spot.

Removing the battery terminal has nothing to do with me having issues with the fuse box not fully connecting with the wiring due to a screw.
 

· The Nuclear Option
Joined
·
5,870 Posts
Removing the battery terminal has nothing to do with me having issues with the fuse box not fully connecting with the wiring due to a screw.
You had mentioned in your original post that you had error messages appearing in the DIC. Not knowing your level of mechanical inclination, I thought that there might be a possibility that you did not break the circuit at the battery causing an electrical short.

As far as the bolt is concerned try using a drill or impact driver on the bolt and the gentle pry on the upper fuse block to separate it from the lower part of the fuse block. There is a video on YouTube showing how in comes apart.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well somewhat success. I carefully decided to remove it. The 2 of 3 popped off as expected. Found this one to have stripped the plastic that was to hold the bolt into place. So the bolt was just spinning. Now go check everything and see if I can get it on tight without it.


As for the circuit at the battery yes I checked that just in case everything there is intact as well .

Thanks
 

· Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was yes. I'm Canadian and the thing is I just moved back home to my home city. I had an excellent mechanic which to by the end I was asking him specific things to do and he never did diagnostics. So when I left he highly suggested just becoming a self taught mechanic. Scam artists and refusing of aftermarket parts and partial country bans of some parts are some of those reasons. My issue was over the past few months random things were happening. For example trunk would randomly open. Replaced trigger sealed it replaced relay all that still does it. Abs and power steering warnings coming on. Yet I had zero issue using them then randomly would shut off. Tested these and still found no issues. Didn't know what else to do so decided why don't I check it's actual connections to these relays and fuses by checking if the wires are fully engaged. That's when this happened. And as soon as I did it all of those things started happening again. I'm not sure maybe in the past mechanic work they didn't put it all the way in or something? I'm not entirely sure. All I know is I'm happy at least the fuse box is intact. May just now test it all while I'm at it and know why it was off. May have a post in the future one of these issues keeps arising after I reassemble everything. Plus I'm a electronics geek. And thought hey I want to learn in detail some of this car electrical stuff.

To put a long story short.... This car gave me ptsd from an ex gf for 2 years. I'm literally stripping this thing mostly inside to refresh it so it seems like a different car to stop my ptsd in its tracks (I hope) some of that is just simple electrical work.

Haven't really checked the Haynes manual yet but since I may have to bolt that one part on manually since the plastic stripped. Is there a recommended inch lbs? Threads seem fine it was just literally spinning that bottom bolt in circles arouunnd and around and round.
 

· Administrator
2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
Joined
·
14,161 Posts
My issue was over the past few months random things were happening. For example trunk would randomly open. Replaced trigger sealed it replaced relay all that still does it. Abs and power steering warnings coming on. Yet I had zero issue using them then randomly would shut off. Tested these and still found no issues. Didn't know what else to do so decided why don't I check it's actual connections to these relays and fuses by checking if the wires are fully engaged.

That's when this happened. And as soon as I did it all of those things started happening again. I'm not sure maybe in the past mechanic work they didn't put it all the way in or something? I'm not entirely sure. All I know is I'm happy at least the fuse box is intact. May just now test it all while I'm at it and know why it was off. May have a post in the future one of these issues keeps arising after I reassemble everything. Plus I'm a electronics geek. And thought hey I want to learn in detail some of this car electrical stuff.

Haven't really checked the Haynes manual yet but since I may have to bolt that one part on manually since the plastic stripped. Is there a recommended inch lbs? Threads seem fine it was just literally spinning that bottom bolt in circles arouunnd and around and round.
I do not know the torque needed but I will look around.


TSB #14311
Service Bulletin - NHTSA SB-10057574-8899
Extra stuff:
How-To: Installation of the Big 3 Cruze Kit
Clean the Terminals
Cruze Battery Upgrade Options
 

· Registered
2014 Cruze LS
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi .. my name is Tom and i am having the same issue as you. I was trying to install oem fog lights, but one bolt did not want to come out and was just turning in it’s place. I took it to an auto electric shop and they managed to connect the fog light wiring in to the fuse box and manage to secure the bolt back into place. Now I am having issues with the wiper motor not working and a check engine light for p00b4 turned on. Has anyone else come across this???
 

· Registered
2013, LS manual 6
Joined
·
6 Posts
I don't know why I thought it would be a good idea.... But I was taking the screws off the engine fuse box. Two came off fine. 1 came out a bit and now won't go either in or out.

Now I have the following popping up like crazy and having horrible rough idle

-radiator coolant sensor circuit is high
  • please service ABS
  • please service power steering.
Frick what do I do!?!?

Update: radiator fan is now cranking to 100%. The other two temp sensors I was going to replace. But the radiator one is fine. abs and power steering keeping flashing at me non stop. Clearly I think the relays around making contact but that **** screw is just stuck there. Not loose it's firm but won't go either up nor down :(
Had same problem. Those 3 bolts tighten the X1,2,3 pin connectors tightly. If not, they can vibrate loose and not pass signals causing BCM/ECM comm issues. I replaced my nut and stripped bolt with a threaded rod, nuts, lock tight and lock washers. Crude fix, but works. Why the bolt on X2 pin got stripped and loose, probably past mechanics tinkering. Don't know if this helps. Hope this gives some insight.
 

· The Nuclear Option
Joined
·
5,870 Posts
Had same problem. Those 3 bolts tighten the X1,2,3 pin connectors tightly. If not, they can vibrate loose and not pass signals causing BCM/ECM comm issues. I replaced my nut and stripped bolt with a threaded rod, nuts, lock tight and lock washers. Crude fix, but works. Why the bolt on X2 pin got stripped and loose, probably past mechanics tinkering. Don't know if this helps. Hope this gives some insight.
Thanks for the reference information but the OP hasn't been seen since 01/2021.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top