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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,
I drive a 2011 Cruze LS, my first new vehicle (6th vehicle overall) with just over 50000 Km. I seem to keep running into issues past my warranty date or just in general, and I seem to be getting the run around from the dealership. I won't list everything, but I'll list some of the major ones and number them for ease of reading.

1/ Fixed - The first major issue was my car revving quite high, after a while I lost power in the acceleration and needed to replace a piston. Just 1-2 month after warranty according to the service advisor. This took the tech quite a few hours of time to troubleshoot and after having the work discounted I believe I paid over $500.00 but under $1000.00.
2/Brake maintenance package recommended - While I was travelling for work, I had my car put in for an oil change and my GF approved work/picked it up. One of the services she approved was the brakes to be cleaned. Since then (almost 2 years) I have constant squeeling in the brakes, I've had the car in a couple times since and I keep getting the run around on this one. I'm not sure how much I've paid here, but it hasn't been resolved. It is in the shop again today with another problem to be looked at, hopefully this one can be resolved as it is super embarrassing to drive around town and have everyone look as your brakes bursts everyone's eardrums.
3/Replaced under warranty after a second check - Car threw a check engine light - Hooked up the OBD and it came up with error code "P0597 Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Open DTC". I'm not 100% sure on this guy, but the service advisor noted that I am past my warranty again on this. Waiting to hear back on how this one will work.

Issues 2 and 3 are being looked at right now, both I have been quoted at $150.00+ each ($300.00+) to investigate. Now my vehicle experience is probably lacking, but I have not had as many issues as I currently am now. Not even from a Mazda I bought half submerged in a swamp and 20 years old.

I don't expect any advice, but if you have some please feel free to comment. At minimum, at least someone searching for similar problems may stumble across this post. I'll also update the post as more information becomes available.
Thanks,
Cody
 

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When was your car first put in service? The power train warranty is good for 5 years from initial service date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am assuming that by first put into service is me driving off the lot (As it is a new car), if so then from the paper records it looks like the service date started on August 12, 2011, putting this under 5 years. If it is when it arrives at the lot, then I very well may be over 5 years. Thanks for taking the time to reply Obermd.
 

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First put into service means the date that the first owner takes delivery from the dealer as a new car. That's when the factory warranty starts. Also, the odometer reading is noted (or at least should be) when that first delivery takes place. You could buy a new car that has been a dealer demo vehicle with 300 miles on the odometer and that is the mileage when the new car warranty begins. Hopefully, you have the requisite documentation to shove before the service writer when the time comes.

What is the mileage limitation on your factory warranty? If you've gone beyond that limit inside of the 5 years, you may be out of warranty on certain issues. If your odometer really reads over 500,000 Km, then that's over 310,685.596 miles. That's well beyond any factory warranty that I know of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Jim, thanks for the clarification and time to write back. The car is 50K and with everyone's help and the service advisor double checking my policy using your advice it looks like I'll be covered for the thermostat.
Unfortunately again, they found nothing wrong with the brakes, so I am getting them to do the brake maintenance package in hopes that it will resolve the issue and if it re-occurs I'll take it to a new dealership.
Thanks for your help!
 

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I am assuming that by first put into service is me driving off the lot (As it is a new car), if so then from the paper records it looks like the service date started on August 12, 2011, putting this under 5 years. If it is when it arrives at the lot, then I very well may be over 5 years. Thanks for taking the time to reply Obermd.
Powertrain warranty in the US for that year was 5 years/100,000 Miles. But it may be different in different countries. But even the new cars are 5 years/60,000 miles. I'd re-read the stuff in the govebox and make sure what your warranty is. As long as it within time/mileage and isn't a salvage title, it will still be in powertrain warranty. However, I'm sure you're outside of bumper to bumper (so no warranty on the brakes.)

And $150 for EACH issue is a new one on me. I'd suggest you shop around. If all warranties have expired, you're free to shop the independent shops. And even with warranty, you're free to patronize any Chevy dealer.

Item #3 is probably a thermostat replacement.
 

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Re: the brake noise.
1. Is the noise audible when you are driving without the brakes being applied? If so, the pads are not retracting fully from the rotors and are sort of just skimming them lightly enough to cause the noise.
2. Does the noise go away when you apply the brakes? Again, they might not be retracting fully due to corroded caliper slides.
3. How old (miles) are the pads? Are they the originals? Guessing they are and after five years of use, things might be a bit corroded in the area despite the cleaning two years ago.
4. If the brakes squeal when they are applied, I'd bet the pads and/or rotors are glazed. This would warrant a brake pad and rotor turning or replacement service. In this instance, the noise might also be the wear fingers on the pads doing their job. They're little metal fingers that screech on the rotors to let you know the pads are worn enough to require replacement. A quick inspection by a mechanic that knows (or gives a crap to look) will tell you this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1. Is the noise audible when you are driving without the brakes being applied? If so, the pads are not retracting fully from the rotors and are sort of just skimming them lightly enough to cause the noise.

No, no noise when driving. Only time the noise happens is when I come to a stop and press down on the pedal.


2. Does the noise go away when you apply the brakes? Again, they might not be retracting fully due to corroded caliper slides.

When fully depressed the noise does go away.

3. How old (miles) are the pads? Are they the originals? Guessing they are and after five years of use, things might be a bit corroded in the area.

Yeah they are the original pads, although I have done regular maintenance and even now I am being told that they are fine after an thorough inspection from the technician.

4. If the brakes squeal when they are applied, I'd bet the pads and/or rotors are glazed. This would warrant a brake pad and rotor turning or replacement service. In this instance, the noise might be the wear fingers on the pads doing their job. They're little metal fingers that screech on the rotors to let you know the pads are worn enough to require replacement. A quick inspection by a mechanic that knows (or gives a crap to look) will tell you this.

The Service Advisor/Mechanic said I didn't need any work done on this, but I asked for it to be performed anyway. I'll update tomorrow when I get the car back to see if this resolved the issue, or if they uncovered a problem when they've performed the work.


Once again thanks everyone for taking the time to post.
 

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Wait! I just noticed that this is a 2011 LS. Doesn't that model have rear drum brakes? There might be debris in the drums causing the noise. Just a guess on this. Robby, a little help please.
 

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There was a old bulletin regarding rear brake squeal on the drum brake cars......the fix called for replacement of one brake drum (I think it was right side) and a softer compound brake shoe kit.
I've read this thread twice........OP?........is the squeal from the front or rear?

Also, again to the OP......if your car still is within the powertrain coverage you should have not had to pay anything for the engine work that required piston replacement.

Gather your receipts, make copies for yourself and send the originals with your story of what happened to the address found in the back of your owners manual.
Once it gets through the warranty maze (6 to 8 weeks seems about par) you will get a letter either denying the claim or a letter of apology with a check.

Rob
 
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