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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Anybody thought about running it in their deleted cruze diesel? I know Amsoil reins supreme, just wondering if anybody has done any research on it... It would be nice to use 1 oil in all 3 of my vehicles that require 5w30. Right now I'm still running the Pensoil platinum Euro L dexos2 stuff.

Shell ROTELLA® T6 Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic | Shell ROTELLA®

For the oil gurus:

http://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/c8878a7f-be48-4555-a194-6c2b8a3ed1dc.pdf

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Anybody thought about running it in their deleted cruze diesel? I know Amsoil reins supreme, just wondering if anybody has done any research on it... It would be nice to use 1 oil in all 3 of my vehicles that require 5w30. Right now I'm still running the Pensoil platinum Euro L dexos2 stuff.

Shell ROTELLA T6 Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic | Shell ROTELLA

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I used to use the 5W-40 version in my Duramax, then Cummins trucks. Seems to be decent oil, but as I understand, it's not a true synthetic. It's highly refined conventional oil. I now run Amsoil in the truck, the Penzoil Dexos2 or Amsoil in the Cruzes.

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I use it in a non deleted.

Its a high saps oil... Which has a chance of causing problems with the dpf. I hate how they sell it as "Low saps" though.
 

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Since OP is deleted, is Dexos 2 no longer required? (Dexos 2 only needed for emissions systems?)
 

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I see it a lot in my discussions with people in diesel groups. I'll share my findings.

- It's a group 3 oil and a cheap one at that. Its primary draw is availability in local retail outlets and a "synthetic" label.
- Shear stability in high-stress applications is not the best. The Miata crowd was getting 3k miles out of it before valvetrain chatter returned. Oil analysis reports confirmed the oil had thinned in viscosity, not related to fuel dilution.
- The detergent/dispersant package is OK. Not great, not bad, but OK. Decent enough to get you through an OEM drain interval. Anything beyond that is questionable.
- The volatility is high. The GM Gen1 Dexos1 spec required an oil with a volatility no higher than 13%. T6 came in at 12.8%, which means it performs at the level of a semi-synthetic 5W-30 with regard to volatility. I would have liked to see something closer to 10-11%.
- This year's reformulation reduced the additive package for emissions compliance. It is low-saps, with respect to the applications it was intended for. Heavy duty diesels now using DPFs require a lower SAPS oil, and the CK-4 spec the new formula was adjusted to comply with reduces the oil's capabilities to meet those emissions requirements. Ford refused to warranty any engine issues if people used Rotella T6 in their powerstrokes for a while, not sure if that has changed.

Honestly, not just trying to make a sales pitch here, but when Brad Herrman ran 65,000 miles on AMSOIL 5W-30 European Formula and the lab told him to run another 7,000 miles, I have to ask what's the point of using anything else, especially if you're deleted? There's a lot of value in being able to go even 15,000 miles on a single change, let alone 72,000 miles. That said, it's your car, and your money.

I dumped 2 quarts of Rotella T6 in my sister in law's Volvo XC90 (which burns oil) on Saturday. I don't use it in anything I own.
 

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Since OP is deleted, is Dexos 2 no longer required? (Dexos 2 only needed for emissions systems?)
Part of the specification for low sulphated ash would no longer be important.. that deals with DPF. The rest of the specifications would still be wise to follow. There were considerable efforts made by OEMs to get extended oil change intervals, this demanded much, much better oil. Dexos2 meets the standard for emmisions and extended drain intervals. Now it's likely T6 would also do fine there as well. But unless you compare all the specifications, it's a guess.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I see it a lot in my discussions with people in diesel groups. I'll share my findings.

- It's a group 3 oil and a cheap one at that. Its primary draw is availability in local retail outlets and a "synthetic" label.
- Shear stability in high-stress applications is not the best. The Miata crowd was getting 3k miles out of it before valvetrain chatter returned. Oil analysis reports confirmed the oil had thinned in viscosity, not related to fuel dilution.
- The detergent/dispersant package is OK. Not great, not bad, but OK. Decent enough to get you through an OEM drain interval. Anything beyond that is questionable.
- The volatility is high. The GM Gen1 Dexos1 spec required an oil with a volatility no higher than 13%. T6 came in at 12.8%, which means it performs at the level of a semi-synthetic 5W-30 with regard to volatility. I would have liked to see something closer to 10-11%.
- This year's reformulation reduced the additive package for emissions compliance. It is low-saps, with respect to the applications it was intended for. Heavy duty diesels now using DPFs require a lower SAPS oil, and the CK-4 spec the new formula was adjusted to comply with reduces the oil's capabilities to meet those emissions requirements. Ford refused to warranty any engine issues if people used Rotella T6 in their powerstrokes for a while, not sure if that has changed.

Honestly, not just trying to make a sales pitch here, but when Brad Herrman ran 65,000 miles on AMSOIL 5W-30 European Formula and the lab told him to run another 7,000 miles, I have to ask what's the point of using anything else, especially if you're deleted? There's a lot of value in being able to go even 15,000 miles on a single change, let alone 72,000 miles. That said, it's your car, and your money.

I dumped 2 quarts of Rotella T6 in my sister in law's Volvo XC90 (which burns oil) on Saturday. I don't use it in anything I own.
Will convincing, I've been told (on here I believe) that the 3000 series would be even better for a deleted cruze. Do you have any info on that? (We may have even spoke about this before between here and Facebook...)

What about the oil a lot of us currently use and available at Wal-Mart, the Pennzoil dexos2, has anyone done any testing on it?

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The Pennzoil is fine... Don't think too hard on it. It's much easier to point out which oils not to use.

If you are going 15K miles and over, maybe then I'd be more picky and pick some of the better Mobil 1s or Amsoils. If you want to pull a brad you seriously need to get tested. Just because one engine can do 50k miles on Amsoil means absolutely nothing in the long run.
 

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oil is oil

filters are filters

dont overthink it
When i first bought my cruze. I got 33 mpg on the first tank. Took to dealer for the 1st freebie oil change. Mpg dropped to 29. Engine wouldn't cool down. After 12 hours at work temp was 120 degrees. A week later took it to jiffy lube. Mpg upped to 36. Engine cools down in a timely manner.

I could tell you a whole bunch of other stories when i test oil back in the day and i was auto mechanic. And i could tell you stories about my experiences with semis.

Sorry. But oil isn't oil and filters aren't filters. IT'S VERY WISE TO OVERTHINK.
 

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When i first bought my cruze. I got 33 mpg on the first tank. Took to dealer for the 1st freebie oil change. Mpg dropped to 29. Engine wouldn't cool down. After 12 hours at work temp was 120 degrees. A week later took it to jiffy lube. Mpg upped to 36. Engine cools down in a timely manner.

I could tell you a whole bunch of other stories when i test oil back in the day and i was auto mechanic. And i could tell you stories about my experiences with semis.

Sorry. But oil isn't oil and filters aren't filters. IT'S VERY WISE TO OVERTHINK.
regale me with stories, i have time.
 

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I just use proper oil and filter and change per gm specs, I don’t over think it or spend bunches of hard earned money to send oil to a lab, not anything wrong with that, but if you change per gm specs it’s just not needed. But hey it’s a free country and we all have choices.
 
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I wouldn't say oil is oil unless you are a few qts low and on the side of the road. One would assume if you went against GM engineering and deleted, that one also went against GM engineering and their original oil intervals. I would still send off a sample vs just tossing oil or going along with what others said about the vehicle in front of you. Also realize "Brotella T6" formula has changed maybe a year a go so even the diehard T6 Subaru guys have slowly pulled away from it as old stock dried up.
 

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Will convincing, I've been told (on here I believe) that the 3000 series would be even better for a deleted cruze. Do you have any info on that? (We may have even spoke about this before between here and Facebook...)

What about the oil a lot of us currently use and available at Wal-Mart, the Pennzoil dexos2, has anyone done any testing on it?

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The Series 3000 is simply unnecessary. There aren't any benefits to it over the European formula. If the European formula can go 72,000 miles, what more would the Series 3000 give you?

Honestly I think both would work very well in a deleted CTD, but we already have the analysis reports using the European formula, so knowing how well that works, I'd lean toward that option.

I haven't seen any oil analysis reports at extended drains using Pennzoil's dexos2 spec oil, but to be frank, Pennzoil doesn't spend the money on the high end antioxidants and base oils that AMSOIL does, so you won't get the same results. Whether or not that will be of any consequence depends on your needs.



oil is oil

filters are filters

dont overthink it
Many people learned the hard way just how false those statements are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I can say, I got tired of putting good oil in my cheap ls cobalt and when it got around 160k it was using a little oil between changes. So my last oil change in that car was super tech, now I don't know the specs and what not, but that car used it up at a faster rate than anything I had before. Maybe the engine was getting worse, but my negligence and it's oil consumption left me about 3qts low and a spun bearing.

I've always ran Mobil 1 in my other vehicles and have yet to have a problem. I didn't care about the cobalt as much and it cost me. So I look at oil a little harder now a days. That was a cheap engine to replace, the ctd, not so much. Thanks for the help guys.

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Will convincing, I've been told (on here I believe) that the 3000 series would be even better for a deleted cruze. Do you have any info on that? (We may have even spoke about this before between here and Facebook...)

What about the oil a lot of us currently use and available at Wal-Mart, the Pennzoil dexos2, has anyone done any testing on it?

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oil is oil

filters are filters

dont overthink it
im old as dirt and still waiting for a catastrophe from not using overpriced oils and filters and not changing them often enough
My 2011 Odyssey has the Honda 3.5L V6 with VCM. VCM is Honda's version of displacement on demand.

Common issues with the factory oil include gumming of the VCM solenoids and passages, harsh engagement of VCM, and eventually engine rebuilds. The problem is entirely avoidable by using an oil with better oxidation stability. This is also a very common issue with honda VTEC components and solenoids as well over time.

My 124 Spider has the 1.4L Multiair Turbo. The Multiair system uses small oil passages for each intake valve pair which early in its production, ended up with varnish and oil deposits clogging the system and resulting in failures. That problem was remedied by requiring synthetic oil be used from the factory and on all subsequent changes. Going rate is $90 for a change of 4 quarts and a filter. I do it myself for that much for 3 changes.

Anecdotally, we're noticing that the GM 5.3L truck engines are having fewer DoD lifter and cam failures when running AMSOIL than on factory oil.

On the 6.7 Powerstroke, we're seeing high fuel dilution and high wear with Motorcraft and Rotella T6, with poor air release properties. Running a better oil like AMSOIL, Schaeffer's, or Lubrication Engineers is drastically cutting down on wear.

On the 7.3 Powerstroke and other HEUI engines, long-term use of a high end synthetic oil results in FAR fewer stiction issues with the injectors. That's a real problem with those engines. Credit due to oxidation stability.

Nissan VQ engines like the VQ35 and VQ37 have widespread issues with widened valve lash from poor quality oils, resulting in valvetrain noise. We're talking the Maxima, Altima, Pathfiinder, Murano, Quest, 350Z/370Z, G35/G37, etc.

In the VW TDI groups, we're seeing HPFP failures because the cam operating the HPFP wears out due to poor shear stability and anti-wear performance in lesser oils.

Then there's the myriad of oil consumption issues caused by piston rings sticking due to oxidation deposits from oils with poor oxidation stability. Then there's accelerated turbo wear that's been associated with Mobil 1 in some applications (some turbo rebuilders explicitly recommend against Mobil 1 even).

I'm a member of more automotive communities than I can count, and I have seen failures and issues directly correlated to the long term use of a poor quality lubricant. Your sole anecdotal experience is not a solid basis from which to proclaim something as fact.
 

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I used to be an amsoil user for my CTD and its a great product but at 22 bucks for 5 quarts of the dexo2 Pennzoil euro L oil at Wal-Mart I think you're a fool to use anything else...the amsoil isn't xxx dollars more worth it.

I've thought about it long and hard. Weighed the facts (lots of uoa reports on the Pennzoil which were fantastic) and as long as I can get 5 quarts for 22 bucks nothing else is even worth considering for now.
 

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I used to be an amsoil user for my CTD and its a great product but at 22 bucks for 5 quarts of the dexo2 Pennzoil euro L oil at Wal-Mart I think you're a fool to use anything else...the amsoil isn't xxx dollars more worth it.

I've thought about it long and hard. Weighed the facts (lots of uoa reports on the Pennzoil which were fantastic) and as long as I can get 5 quarts for 22 bucks nothing else is even worth considering for now.

End of the day, it all depends on how long you left the Amsoil in the car. If it gets dumped shortly after 7000 miles or sooner then yeah it's not really worth it in that aspect. For me and my gasser, I let it go for 14K miles swapping out the fiter in between. Current car the $22 Penzoil is literally what I use since it's a N/A leased vehicle.
 

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I used to be an amsoil user for my CTD and its a great product but at 22 bucks for 5 quarts of the dexo2 Pennzoil euro L oil at Wal-Mart I think you're a fool to use anything else...the amsoil isn't xxx dollars more worth it.

I've thought about it long and hard. Weighed the facts (lots of uoa reports on the Pennzoil which were fantastic) and as long as I can get 5 quarts for 22 bucks nothing else is even worth considering for now.
Be careful what you use oil analysis for. Evaluating one oil against another, or using the analysis to make a decision on which oil to purchase, is not in the context of what oil analysis should be used for.

I'm not saying Pennzoil euro L is a bad oil, so don't misunderstand me here, I'm cautioning you against using data out of context. A $30 oil analysis using pore blockage to measure particle counts is only effective between 1 and 6 microns, so you don't even have a full picture of the wear occurring. I'm fairly confident this is the reason people don't see a turbo failure coming until lead upticks and it's already too late. They don't see any wear prior to failure, yet they find play in the turbine shaft. You don't have any indication of air release properties, oxidation stability (and resulting deposit prevention in critical areas like turbo seals, piston rings, and the fuel pump), volatility and its effect on the EGR system and DPF (and consequently, the number of regen cycles), and other similar factors. The issues that come up from deficiencies in any of those areas are usually only seen long-term.

I deal with oil analysis on a daily basis and have been studying to get into an industrial lubrication career. To summarize my objective here, please don't use oil analysis out of context.
 
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