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If salt is used where you drive, get new rotors. At 80,000 miles my '12 Eco had about 1/2 the pads left, but the brakes got bad because there was rust forming inside the rotors on the backside of the rotors. They're cheap anyhow, maybe just change them no matter what.
 

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More new problems that never existed before, and have to watch your brakes like a hawk, Toyota came out with those pad brackets with the metal clips on them back in the 80's some time. If the engineers even read Consumer Reports on this type of caliper brakes, they would have never adopted them.

That clip is a blind spot for road salt, the pad brackets are not very well plated so rust builds up under them that expands those clips so they lock the pads. And once you hit the brakes, those pads never back off, rub against the rotor that creates lots of friction and heat, rotors get red hot, and warp.

Warping is only part of the problem, that excessive heat crystallizes the cast iron and piece of it will chip off, also discontinuity in the friction of the surface. And those ventilation holes in the rotor can also be plugged up with rust.

All rotors have the minimum thickness specification stamped on them, ha, try finding this very important specification in the shop manual. Depending on the degree of warping, can they even be turned enough without exceeding the minimum thickness specification?

Briefly with road salt, rotors are yet another throwaway item. Found over the years that anti-seize is the best lubricant for the pads, and after a good cleaning of the brackets and clips, the pads should be easily installed with your fingers. See way too many idiots install pads with a hammer.

My best price for good name brand rotors has been my Fleet Farm store, been awhile on the 04 Cavalier, machine shop wanted 18 bucks to turn the old rotors, was around 22 bucks for new ones. And the replacements lasted over 90 K miles. But with this road salt BS, have to check them frequently.
 

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Stealer ship that's why, they are sub par quality.

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
The high part pricing has more to do with volume.......a dealer doesn't have high buying power.....most will only inventory two of the highest moving part#

The aftermarket parts biz.....cause parts is what they do, buys hundreds of each part# and as a result, enjoy a massive discount and are able to pass it along.

Same as always......parts is parts.....washing machine/car/airplane.....anything.

Rob
 

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May I as an ex-insider disagree, nobody buys more parts than the OEM's and most have their own distribution centers. We already know the OEM's are trying to help the dealers with dealer installed accessories, just a bit of pay back since they want super fancy dealerships.

One gang that is really cleaning up on parts, is the good ole IRS, inventory is considered profit just like cold hard cash, and no one has a crystal ball as to how long that cold hard cash is going to sit on the shelve, and not a one time charge, but a yearly charge. That is one key reason for outrageous parts cost.

In checking all four auto supply stores in town, the price for front rotors on the Cruze is a nearly constant 50 bucks. One place was giving me a 30% discount, but really have to fight for that now since that 2008 crunch. That would knock the price down to 35 bucks.

Rotors are heavy, always a steep shipping charge. Can get AC Delco's from ebay with free shipping for $33.59.

Very expensive rotors are on my motorhome and Supra, when they need touching up, go to a machine shop in my town, and tell them exactly how much to take off each side with my micrometer in my pocket. See guys at shops, just twist that knob, lathe off half the rotor and walk away.

Ha, remember, I have been around the block a couple of times.
 

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My experience with GM brake pads and rotors (and shocks too) is that there is the part that your vehicle left the factory with. It is very expensive and often not even offered by dealership parts people because of the crazy price. These include FNC treated rotors.

Then there are service parts that are priced to compete with the aftermarket. This would include AC Delco.

So about 15 years ago the true factory rotors for my 9C1 were $259 compared to the GM service rotors at $89.
 

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My experience with GM brake pads and rotors (and shocks too) is that there is the part that your vehicle left the factory with. It is very expensive and often not even offered by dealership parts people because of the crazy price. These include FNC treated rotors.

Then there are service parts that are priced to compete with the aftermarket. This would include AC Delco.

So about 15 years ago the true factory rotors for my 9C1 were $259 compared to the GM service rotors at $89.
Maybe in the past and/or on more expensive GM cars, but this is a Cruze. The rotors and brake pads are both junk, as are the sway bar links.

Idk, they might be better on a Diesel one with the upgraded brake package.

I had shaking rotors within 9000 miles, and then once resurfaced by the dealership, had them return in another 10,000 miles. Replaced at 25K, now at 45 and have no complaints whatsoever about my new pads/rotors - no shaking at all even under hard braking.
 

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Maybe in the past and/or on more expensive GM cars, but this is a Cruze. The rotors and brake pads are both junk, as are the sway bar links.

Idk, they might be better on a Diesel one with the upgraded brake package.

I had shaking rotors within 9000 miles, and then once resurfaced by the dealership, had them return in another 10,000 miles. Replaced at 25K, now at 45 and have no complaints whatsoever about my new pads/rotors - no shaking at all even under hard braking.
Which rotors and pads did you use?
 

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Centric Premium rotors & Akebono ProACT 1522 Ultra Premium pads.

Need to re-do the drums too - the right rear squeals like crazy if it's been the least bit damp outside.

Next time you are going to clean and adjust the rear shoes, cross the drums and adjust.
Ancient trick from an ancient wrench.....works 99% of the time for noise by breaking the wear pattern (invisible to the eye).

Rob
 

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Lower anchors on drums for the shoes always bind, also keeps the shoes from self centering so the adjusters don't work. After a good cleaning, nothing works better than Permatex anti-seize, black brake grease is next to useless.


I see four sports rotors with pads for rear disc brakes for 163 bucks with free shipping, wonder how good these are.

42K and over four winters on my Cruze, OE pads show very little wear, rotors have a polished look. Ha, call me Mr. Downshifter. Also clean those brackets and clips frequently so those pads do not bind up. Have the 2LT with four wheel discs.

Ha, this old guy needed help when putting the rear drums on my motorhome with duals way deep inside and weighing around 125 pounds each no longer strong enough to hold them with my arms straight out. Needed my son to help me, got on my back, lifted them up and he guided them. On this thing, the differential axles had to be pulled our first.

Working on the Cruze brakes is like working on a toy, where are my tweezers.
 

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I have a thread floating around here somewhere, probably in the brake/suspension section, with the details of the Centric Premium upgrade.

Here's the reality you contend with. Most rotors are cheap junk. They are G3000 castings, but the quality varies significantly. The "drilled or slotted" rotors are nothing more than G3000 blanks that are machined. They are prone to cracking and end up with less actual surface area to brake with no consequential heat dissipation properties during street use.

The Centric Premium blank rotors are G3500 castings, with a GOOD rust preventative coating. They will resist deforming or wearing unevenly in the long run and will last a whole lot longer, for not a whole lot more. R1 Concepts resells this rotor in their Premiere line. It is the best OE replacement rotor on the market, and priced very well.

I've been in touch with a Centric representative since early December, and finally have a distributor I can work with so I can start selling these rotors to Cruze owners. I'll be making a post about it as soon as it is available.
 

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Yet another common cause of brake rotor failure is a collapsing rubber brake line hose, Cruze has four of these, as do all ABS equipped vehicles. Its not one piece of rubber, but a series of layers.

When you release the brake pedal, creates a vacuum and if the inner tubing is not properly sealed, it will collapse and act as a check prevent the shoes or pads from returning to their home position. They use to know how to make good vulcanized brake hoses, must have forgotten how to.

Always walking around my vehicles after a good drive with the back of my hand next to each rotor or drum, if you can feel extra radiated heat, you have a problem. Either binding pads or shoes, or a collapsed brake line. Only intelligent mechanics check this, also seems to be a shortage of these.
 
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