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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys was wondering if any of you ever had these problems I sent this as a email to the service department for my dealership, only thing I'm worried about is that when I get there none of these are going to occur...which always Happens when I take my car in for a problem lol...just looking for some insight and share what's going on and see if anyone can relate:


1.

NOISE: Metallic/rattling.


WHERE: front end, passenger side wheel area.


WHEN IT OCCURS & WHEN IT STOPS: sometimes at cold start, almost always at operating temperature, (i.e) stop sign/light when the vehicle is in DRIVE.*


When initially heard, I would put the the gear in NEUTRAL and it's goes away completely, put it back into DRIVE, it comes back. When in PARK, it will continue for a second or two then go away.


2.

NOISE: Metallic clicking


WHERE: front; left brake


WHEN IT OCCURS: sometimes at operating temperature, at a stop. When brake is applied, at the same time I can hear the metallic clicking sound.


3.

ENGINE: Surging/rough idle


I realize that I may have a rough idle at a cold start because obviously the engine needs to get going so I figure that's normal. But it's an existing problem at operating temperature.


WHEN IT OCCURS/HOW OFTEN: operating temperature, after the car has been running for a while whether if I'm driving, stop sign, red-light, a rough idle OR surging OFTEN occurs when my foot is applied to the brake.*


SURGING: when foot is applied to brake at a stop at operating temperature, the car would sometimes CREEP/PULL forward without me even applying any acceleration whatsoever.


ROUGH IDLE: similar to the surging, but at operating temperature, and the car has been running for a while after driving etc.. I would experience and pulsating idle. My RPM needle doesn't move at all.


4.

STEERING.

when going to turn my vehicle in any direction, it feels like as if I have to turn my steering wheel so much to make a turn or even if I'm driving with the usual curve or bend, just feels like it taking to much to turn.
 

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Wow that is some issue. Why not open a ticket with G.M. Customer Service here at CRUZE TALK? What year CRUZE, how many miles on it? Always best when you have a problem to present one issue at a time otherwise the Dealer might blow you off, good luck and welcome!
 

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Subscribing to this thread. I'm also experiencing the same exact rough idle issue your describing. I've taken my 13 ltz in a couple times and have things fixed saying that was why. First thing they fixed was the water pump, it was leaking.

Second fix was the negative battery cable and at the time I was also having the stabilitrak and lights flickering off problem. Third time my positive battery cable had a lot of resistance in it and was replaced. These jobs did not get rid of that rough idle problem I've been feeling so I'm really interested in what they say for you.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 

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Know its a Cruze with an AT, but what model, year, and how many miles on it?

2012 2LT, MT with 42K miles on it starts instantly even in sub zero weather, and engine purrs like a kitten. But getting an ever slightly hesitation when starting off in first gear, begging me to clean the spark plugs, haven't done this in 15K miles.

With a misfire like you apparently have, that can drive that AT crazy. Even with clean properly gaped and torqued plugs, springs get stuck in the shoulder of the boots and don't make good contact. One darn good reason for a misfire. Have to make sure those springs are sticking out of all four boots.
 

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Back in the 60's, developed and manufactured what we called a cylinder balance tester. Used an inductive pickup for cylinder #1, and with a selector switch could ground out the points or an ignition module one at a time according to the firing order of the engine.

With a tachometer connected, would expect about a 50 rpm drop when grounding out each cylinder, if you didn't get that drop, that was the bad cylinder, was a handy device to have. But when the catalytic converter came out, took it off the market due to liability, just that short burst of gas from one cylinder was thought to burn it up.

Even worse with fuel injection and an O2 sensor, with an engine like the Cruze with just four cylinders, not only kicking out raw gas to the cat, but the O2 sensors thinks the mixture is lean due to excess oxygen enriching the other three for lots of raw gas.

This compared to that CBT is catastrophic to the cat, creating even more super costly repairs to your engine. Won't even drive a vehicle with a misfire.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The answer to my rough idle and surge was that my oil dipstick was not pushed in all the way. It was sticking out..but on my wayou home there wasn't any rough idle OR surgery as of now..they also cleaned my throttle body, changed the air/oil filters, I will be returning tomorrow for my METALLIC/RATTLE as I just discovered it again and got video of it
 

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Brake pads worn to the wear indicators? Defective hub bearings? Daughter was told the first by a shop, gave her a terrible 99.99 buck brake job, just slapped in the cheapest pads they could find, nothing else. Then told her, both her front wheel bearings were bad, 700 bucks for this.

Let me look at it first, had stones between the rotor and rotor shield, loosened the rotor a bit and turned it, they all fell out. Nothing wrong with those hub bearings.

Nothing like raising four daughters, especially darn good looking ones, always running into guy trying to screw them one way or the other.
 
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