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Spark plug gap for FE on the 1.4T

61796 Views 136 Replies 38 Participants Last post by  obermd
In another thread, I talked with a member named Ian_12 regarding spark plug gap. He informed me that he increased his spark plug gap from .029" to .034". The result for him was a significant improvement in fuel economy.

I have little experience with changing spark plug gap, so I figured someone who had more knowledge and experience on this topic would chime in. On the L67s, supposedly some people reduce spark plug gap to prevent spark blowout under high boost levels, although I'm not even sure if that's actually a problem. My L67 runs on .060 from the factory, and .055 was recommended to me with a smaller pulley and a few supporting modifications, which never really exceeded 14psi total.

I will be trying this tomorrow, but I wanted to know if anyone knew any specific reasons why a certain spark plug gap is chosen over another. .029" does indeed seem to be a bit small.
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Wish I had an answer, but I know if I see good results I will be doing this as well.

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Wish I had an answer, but I know if I see good results I will be doing this as well.

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Well, since I like to document everything, I'll start with the last 5 tanks of gas I've had, from newest to oldest:

41.9mpg @ 33.5mph average
43.8mpg @ 33.4mph average
42.5mpg @ 32.5mph average
41.3mpg @ 30.1mph average
44.7mpg @ 32.2mph average

Lets just say I tried pretty hard to get that 44.7mpg tank of gas, so if I break 44.7mpg by a significant margin, I'll know this made a significant difference.

One thought I had was with regard to emissions; does a more efficient burn from a higher spark plug gap affect emissions much?
Some information from the NGK site:

A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
Spark Plug Installation Instructions

The consensus on all of the forums I've searched is that one should run the biggest spark plug gap they can without causing any spark blowout under boost. The higher the boost, the smaller the spark plug gap needs to be.
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I wouldnt doubt it, but honestly Ive never INCREASED the gap, only lowered. Did that for performance on previous ride..spark blow out was an issue there as well.

Im interested to see what you find. I probably wont go that route as my foot is too heavy as it is...
I initially saw a massive spike in fuel mileage. I was getting 38mpg regularly, and right after opening the gap, that tank got me 45mpg. I averaged 54mpg for half the tank, of course have to take that computer average with a grain of salt. As of later tanks, I have been seeing 40-44mpg, which still is an improvement. But the butt dyno was more pleased. The response of the engine is much better.


But it isn't so simple to figure out the right gap for an engine. Definitely not a universal thing. I just toyed with an idea of boosted 4cyl, smaller displacement, engines that I am used to. Going by boost pressure also isn't a good factor, as cfm is the thing you need to know. Too many people see boost as boost, which is bad. The bigger factor is the cfm of the turbo over its map. Anyways, going with too big of a gap can potentially be blown out or not even spark. Going too small, it can cause poor combustion (sounds odd, as people may think a burn will burn everything) and could bridge over eventually. There is so much more to go on about, but I will just leave it short.

Simply, tuning the gap can make differences but sometimes is hard to find. If you really want to fine tune the ignition, then mess with the gap and also index the plugs to create the most complete burn possible with the stock engine components. Personally, too many factors can lead to how my results came about. It is a free thing to mess with, and is a reason I tried (plus I just felt the engine wasn't running right). Just be careful when doing this because the plugs are iridium, so definitely use feeler gauge (not that cheap round piece that isn't precise) when checking gap.
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.....Warranty?
I don't see changing your spark plug gap voiding any warranty or breaking anything. Worst case, you get spark blowout and you have to set it back. Really no big deal.

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.029 does seem very small. i wonder what there reasoning was. i really like this type of thread. always have been the type to mod my cars. modding for mileage is fun too. cant wait for hp tuners so i can try some lean tuning.
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.029 does seem very small. i wonder what there reasoning was. i really like this type of thread. always have been the type to mod my cars. modding for mileage is fun too. cant wait for hp tuners so i can try some lean tuning.
It was probably done with the knowledge that people will adhere to the 100k mile spark plug change interval. I think that by 100k miles, the spark plug gap will be close to or even larger than .034. If you start with a larger gap though, your mileage won't be quite as high as you'll have to replace them sooner or re-gap them.

That's just my theory as to why they made it so small. I'm wondering if peoples' fuel economy improvements as they pass 10k miles have anything to do with this as well.
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I went ahead and gave this a try. It was surprisingly easy to get the spark plugs out. Very simple job. I gapped mine up to .035 and went out for a drive. I did notice an improved throttle response and power off the line, and power seemed to be a bit better. I'll have to do some more driving to be sure. I went up to redline in 1st and 2nd gear a few times with the car at operating temperature and didn't get a single misfire; it all felt very smooth.

I'll fill up this tank of gas even though it's not empty tomorrow and will report back after my next tank of gas.
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i guess they could be preparing for some wear down the road. a stock ls1 plug is .060. even with 1000+ boosted hp we dont go down to .029.

are the stock cruze plugs double platinum? if so i would think there is very little wear over the 100k lifespan.

i did some a little searching. didn't really find any scientific or tested data but the consensus is it is ok to up the gap by .010.

i have access to a mustang dyno. it is a loaded dyno so you can do all kinds of drive ability testing on it. i might try and do some somewhat scientific testing on some of these mileage ideas.

1st step would be to go out on a flat highway on a calm day and set the cruse at 60mph. record the injector duty cycle.

2nd step get on the dyno and set the cruse at 60mph and adjust the load until i see the same duty cycle.

3rd step pump up the tires from 35psi to 50psi and record the duty cycle at the same speed and load. wont be a great test since it will only be seeing one set of tires but it might show something and the fronts likely have 3/4's of the load/improvement if there is any.

4th, open the gap and retest

5th lean it out 5%, 10%, 15%... till it starts missing.

at some point maybe adjust the timing a little. now that i think about it all these test should be under a little more load like 75mph since the car gets stupid good mileage at 60mph as it is.

any other easy to test things that could be done on a dyno? i have always wondered if the actual speed goes up compared to the speedo when you air up your tires. if the car is going 1mph faster due to a larger diameter wheel than the computer thinks it is going we might be seeing more of an improvement in mileage with the higher air pressure than we thought.

many of these things could be done on the road if you did it on the right day. no wind and steady weather conditions. dyno would just make it a little easier.
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I wish I had easy access to a dyno so I could have seen if there was a noticeable power shift. Too me, it felt like the power curve came in sooner and would hold out most of the range.
are the stock cruze plugs double platinum? if so i would think there is very little wear over the 100k lifespan.
They are iridium.
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Too me, it felt like the power curve came in sooner and would hold out most of the range.
I would fully agree with this statement. There was a definite improvement, which leads me to believe that city driving will yield significantly better fuel economy results. More power out of the same amount of fuel.
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I gotta wonder about this. If increasing the plug gap increases performance and fuel economy, then why didn't the engineers design it that way? This is one of those things where I wish there was documentation about the engineering of the engine.
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I gotta wonder about this. If increasing the plug gap increases performance and fuel economy, then why didn't the engineers design it that way? This is one of those things where I wish there was documentation about the engineering of the engine.
Emissions perhaps? I recall hearing something about some trace of fuel getting to the catalytic converter.

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It has to do with burn time and spark intensity. Different gaps create a variable resistance that can be tinkered with to create different ignition conditions. A longer gap = higher resistance which means voltage goes up to jump the gap
It has to do with burn time and spark intensity. Different gaps create a variable resistance that can be tinkered with to create different ignition conditions. A longer gap = higher resistance which means voltage goes up to jump the gap
So are there any downsides to this with the cruze? I have to admit, I'm really loving the results. There's significantly more power at very low rpms (1100-1600), which is where I do over 90% of my driving. I was accelerating up a hill without problems earlier in 6th gear at 40mph. Engine even feels smoother at those very low rpms as it usually vibrates a bit. DIC is reading 40.6mpg with an 18mph average speed, all city driving. I filled up this morning and took my. Wife shopping for 4 hours. I have very high hopes for this next tank of gas.

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