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Discussion Starter #181
Watch your voltage reading for a day or two in the instrument cluster. If you experience fluctuations, it is likely the cable. It was very evident to me that the voltage was not stable, even though it did not swing wildly, it would just creep up and down.

I was experiencing symptoms with my radar detector acting strange by restarting or falsing in strange ways. Escort told me it was likely due to low or unstable voltage. That was the first indication that I had a voltage issue. The next day the radio blanked and restarted. Read the posts about the negative battery cable issues.

I set my instrument cluster display to voltage and watched over the next two days as my voltage would vary anywhere from 11.9V to 15V. Finally got to the dealer, they replaced the negative battery cable and it has been a rock solid 14.4V since.
12.4v to 15v is actually normal for the Cruze. 11.9v is low however. The Cruze uses a variable output alternator for fuel efficiency.
 

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12.4v to 15v is actually normal for the Cruze. 11.9v is low however. The Cruze uses a variable output alternator for fuel efficiency.
Now I am very curious. I will have to leave the voltage display up for a few more days to watch.

After I picked up at the dealer, I drove home from work, ran errands, etc. I drove apx. 75miles in varying conditions and every time I looked it was 14.4V and my peripheral vision didn't catch a change. The two days prior it would creep up or down, even on the freeway with cruise control set and what I would consider constant parameters. It would creep just .1V at a time, slowly, with seconds to minutes between changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #183
Now I am very curious. I will have to leave the voltage display up for a few more days to watch.

After I picked up at the dealer, I drove home from work, ran errands, etc. I drove apx. 75miles in varying conditions and every time I looked it was 14.4V and my peripheral vision didn't catch a change. The two days prior it would creep up or down, even on the freeway with cruise control set and what I would consider constant parameters. It would creep just .1V at a time, slowly, with seconds to minutes between changes.
It shouldn't creep like that.
 

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Would the hazard lights staying on and won't turn off. Go into this?
Gen 1 Cruze owners have reported numerous "weird" things related to the negative battery cable issue under Special Coverage 14311. It may not turn out to fix your issue but it's certainly the best place to start.

Check your negative cable, there should be a white label on it with a mfg date. If it's close to the year your car was made, then it hasn't been replaced yet.

If it has been replaced or you replace it and no change, look at the battery. If it's the original battery, might be time to replace after 5 years. Many original batteries failed or caused electrical anomalies after only 3 years.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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You can get the negative battery cable on Amazon for about $20 with free one day prime shipping. With the special coverage, you'll have to drive to the dealer and probably leave it with them for a day.
 

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You can get the negative battery cable on Amazon for about $20 with free one day prime shipping. With the special coverage, you'll have to drive to the dealer and probably leave it with them for a day.

I made an appointment and they changed mine in less than an hour.
 

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Well, the dealer I bought from was one I choose normally not to deal with, so I changed my preferred dealership to a local Chevy one. I also praised them on a local board and after my service. So far so good, although I hear gums flapping about them as well.
 

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Just in case replacing the negative battery cable does not solve the problems:

My 2014 Diesel Cruise (45,000 miles) was showing all kinds of service messages and other problems like no turn signals or dome light and others. The dealer installed a new negative battery cable according to the service bulletin #14311 and it did not help at all.

The problem, which was a bitch to find, turned out to be the Side Detection System. This had gone bad last spring and would have cost about $700 to replace the unit. I told them not to replace it. So now, five months later, the car was really screwing up with all most all the monitored systems showing "service messages." After 4 hours of trying to solve the problem I reminded the service tech. about the side detection system going bad in the spring. He checked that system and it was the problem.

$1200 to fix the system (includes the 4 or more hours of looking for the problem). I asked them if they could unplug or isolate the side detection system and see if that solved the many problems. It did! They simply unplugged and bagged the plug located in the rear bumper on the drivers side. So it cost me $400. Too bad the system wasn't isolated last spring!
 

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When I leave in the morning I have the heat at maximum (electrical heater assist I assume is on) and fan one speed below maximum. When I leave from a stop, about 80% of the time after it seems to switch from gear 1 to 2, the fan speed slows a bit and the headlights visibly dim for about half a second. After that, it does not seem to happen for the rest of the drive. Is this normal due to the increased electrical load on the system or is this possibly a negative battery cable issue? None of the other mentioned indicators of a defective negative battery cable are present.
 

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Are you kidding, just read a few lines up from your posting. Car was taken into dealer and left with new cable and same problem. New cables are just as bad as the old??:dazed002::Drooling_anim::dizzy:This is another case of foolishness of penny wise and pound foolish. My time is worth more then wasting it waiting for a dealer to put in another junk cable from China?

Fix it once with soldering ...no parts needed! If you dont have the talent get a friends help who does!

Exactly what spot in the cable was offering high resistance or were there multiple spots because this sounds like something I might do?
 

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Is there any way that the neg cable could cause a coil to go bad? My coil just went the day after having the cable replaced.
 

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Exactly what spot in the cable was offering high resistance or were there multiple spots because this sounds like something I might do?
Where the cable enters the battery lug (terminal) the crimp was inadequate and over time resistance rises within....nothing visible nor repairable.

Rob
 

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My 2015 Cruze LT is experiencing all of the symptoms associated with this issue. Problem is, my dealership says this battery cable has already been replaced and that GM wont cover it. They areholding onto my car to try to duplicate the symptoms, but still havent been ablt to do it. Has anyone had a situation where the new cable was also bad?
 

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My 2015 Cruze LT is experiencing all of the symptoms associated with this issue. Problem is, my dealership says this battery cable has already been replaced and that GM wont cover it. They areholding onto my car to try to duplicate the symptoms, but still havent been ablt to do it. Has anyone had a situation where the new cable was also bad?
The cable is pretty cheap, just over $20 bucks. Wouldn’t hurt to pop another one in just to know for sure. https://www.gmpartsdirect.co/oem-parts/gm-negative-cable-22754271?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7oiz25fZ2QIVgpF-Ch1VhA6HEAAYAiAAEgLHevD_BwE
 

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‘14 CTD, 85K Miles

SYMPTOMS: Service Stabilitrak light. Also for about a month now power steering assist failures (below 20 mph, left & right turns) sometimes accompanied by MyLink radio shut down.

Fortunately after reading this thread months ago I already had a new Negative Battery Cable in the trunk. 15 minutes, easy peasy. I’ve put about 750 miles on since the repair, all symptoms gone.

During install I ran into a small glitch. The new cable did not have the small threaded-stud side terminal on the battery end. I tried to remove the stud from the old cable using vise grips but no joy.

So I dug through the tool box and found an old jet ski battery battery bolt. It fit perfectly into the threaded hole.

RED - Old cable end showing threaded stud
GREEN - New cable installed with jet ski battery bolt

0F35AE6F-A43B-45FB-93E1-CE1456644182.jpg

So just a note, if you order a cable online be prepared to ‘modify’ as needed to attach the small secondary ground cable at the battery end should yours come the way mine did.
 
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