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SYMPTOMS: Service Stabilitrak light. Also for about a month now power steering assist failures (below 20 mph, left & right turns) sometimes accompanied by MyLink radio shut down.

Fortunately after reading this thread months ago I already had a new Negative Battery Cable in the trunk. 15 minutes, easy peasy. I’ve put about 750 miles on since the repair, all symptoms gone.

During install I ran into a small glitch. The new cable did not have the small threaded-stud side terminal on the battery end. I tried to remove the stud from the old cable using vise grips but no joy.

So I dug through the tool box and found an old jet ski battery battery bolt. It fit perfectly into the threaded hole.

RED - Old cable end showing threaded stud
GREEN - New cable installed with jet ski battery bolt

View attachment 256985

So just a note, if you order a cable online be prepared to ‘modify’ as needed to attach the small secondary ground cable at the battery end should yours come the way mine did.
The required bolt is mentioned in the body of the update and a part# is provided. I think it was (dimensions not listed) a 6mm x 10 and I believe that is the size that comes packaged with motorcycle batteries.

Falls under the 'I'll need that someday so it goes into the junk drawer' that all mechanics suffer from.
Then, the day comes we clean out the drawer, saying to ourselves 'why was I saving that?'
Next day, after the trash is hauled away.......NUTS!....I need that bolt!

Heh heh,

Rob
 

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Hi everyone. Came across this issue after Googling my issues.
Issues started Feb20th. Coming off the expressway, the DIC lights up with “Service Stabilitrac, service traction control, and the ABS light went on. Went away within 1-2 minutes. Feb 28th, same thing happened and went away within minutes.
Finally, on March 9th it occurred, but this time they have stayed on. When I turn the car off, and start again only the ABS is on until I begin to drive, press the brake, and the ABS light turns off. Unfortunately, within 100 ft of driving the “service traction, service stabilitrac, and ABS come on. This repeats every time the car is turned off and on.
I have replaced the negative battery cable w/ one I ordered from Amazon but nothing changed.
Any ideas? Any help is appreciated
 

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Hi everyone. Came across this issue after Googling my issues.
Issues started Feb20th. Coming off the expressway, the DIC lights up with “Service Stabilitrac, service traction control, and the ABS light went on. Went away within 1-2 minutes. Feb 28th, same thing happened and went away within minutes.
Finally, on March 9th it occurred, but this time they have stayed on. When I turn the car off, and start again only the ABS is on until I begin to drive, press the brake, and the ABS light turns off. Unfortunately, within 100 ft of driving the “service traction, service stabilitrac, and ABS come on. This repeats every time the car is turned off and on.
I have replaced the negative battery cable w/ one I ordered from Amazon but nothing changed.
Any ideas? Any help is appreciated
How old is your battery?
 

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Hi everyone. Came across this issue after Googling my issues.
Issues started Feb20th. Coming off the expressway, the DIC lights up with “Service Stabilitrac, service traction control, and the ABS light went on. Went away within 1-2 minutes. Feb 28th, same thing happened and went away within minutes.
Finally, on March 9th it occurred, but this time they have stayed on. When I turn the car off, and start again only the ABS is on until I begin to drive, press the brake, and the ABS light turns off. Unfortunately, within 100 ft of driving the “service traction, service stabilitrac, and ABS come on. This repeats every time the car is turned off and on.
I have replaced the negative battery cable w/ one I ordered from Amazon but nothing changed.
Any ideas? Any help is appreciated
How old is your battery?
 

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Well that rules out electrical gremlins, possible bad ABS wheel sensor?
 

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All three functions require functioning abs input......so if a abs sensor is at fault the traction control and stabilitrac are unable to function.

Rob
Thanks Rob, I had reached the limit of my extensive mechanical background LOL.

Good luck @geo81mm keep us posted
 

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All three functions require functioning abs input......so if a abs sensor is at fault the traction control and stabilitrac are unable to function.

Rob
Thanks Rob, I had reached the limit of my extensive mechanical background LOL.

Good luck @geo81mm keep us posted
I’m getting there too. I got an appointment on Monday w/ the dealer to get it checked out. Will post once I get in there. Wish me luck.
 

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I found the same thing Robby said. Autozone and my own cheap scanner only look at engine codes along with emission codes. I have the same issue too. The ABS light is on and the "swervy" light is on, but the warnings are only for Stabili-Trak and Traction control. Since I tightened all the battery cable connectors and finally added the positive cable for the big three setup, the lights and warnings go away for days and then only popup occasionally. So I am taking it to the dealer next week for other services and will ask them to read the codes. I need to get a new battery as the post is leaking and corroding my positive cable and will do that before having anything repaired though. I should add that I have no issues I can see anyways, driving the car.
 

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Hi guys. So I took a big gulp and brought my baby into the dealer assuming it isthe negative battery cable. They said it is the rear wheel sensor, not the cable. They gave a code of c005-5a.
Since I could not find some definite info on how to replace it, and did not feel like climbing under he car since it is still cold, I told them to go ahead and replace it. It is gonna cost me $241.
 

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I did send me searches online and YouTube, it seems easy enough to replace yourself but I’m not sure if It’s the right thing I looked up. I told the service guy I want to old part so I can compare w/ the things I find online. I’ll keep you guys posted on results.
 

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I should have listened to you before I brought it into the dealer. I was just too lazy and stupid to go to O Reilly
Hi guys. So I took a big gulp and brought my baby into the dealer assuming it isthe negative battery cable. They said it is the rear wheel sensor, not the cable. They gave a code of c005-5a.
Since I could not find some definite info on how to replace it, and did not feel like climbing under he car since it is still cold, I told them to go ahead and replace it. It is gonna cost me $241.
Don't worry about it, $241 is not that bad to have working ABS.

I did all 4 speed sensors/wheel bearings on my old Impala and it was a lot of work and still expensive.

For future reference, a good way to test them is you pull the plug from the sensor and check the ohms rating of the sensor right on the wheel bearing (not the wire harness). Then compare all 4 sensors. If one of them is quite a bit different it means it's bad.
 

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So 1 1/2 weeks later after the sensor being replaced all is well. Could have cost me $35 if I wasn’t lazy, ended up paying $265 after taxes and “mandatory” EPA fee.
 
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