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Special Coverage #14311: Negative Battery Cable

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Just got notified of another special coverage. I don't have the details yet but it's to resolve the loose Negative Battery Cable some people are experiencing. We have had many members report problems with this cable and its connections. I'll post more information when I receive it.

#14311: Special Coverage Adjustment - Negative Battery Cable Loose - (Dec 3, 2014)
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Subject:14311 — Special Coverage Adjustment – Negative Battery Cable Loose
Models:2011-2015 Chevrolet Cruze
[HR][/HR]ConditionOn certain 2011–2015 model year Chevrolet Cruze vehicles, the negative battery cable terminal clamp may have an insufficient crimp at the battery negative terminal. Over time, the internal resistance increases and vehicle electrical systems do not receive adequate power.
With this condition, the following effects are possible: the Radio/HVAC Display may turn off and on; the Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System, Service Stabilitrac and Steering vehicle messages may come on and off; the turn signal sound may not be heard; “Battery Saver Active” and “Service Steering” may display in the Driver Information Center (DIC); and the interior and exterior lighting may flicker. Power steering assist may also be lost, and greater effort may be needed to turn the steering wheel at low speeds or while the vehicle is stopped.
Special Coverage AdjustmentThis special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 10 years or 120,000 miles (193,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership.
Dealers will replace the battery negative cable, which will now require a bolt to fasten the small regulated voltage cable. The repairs will be made at no charge to the customer.
For vehicles covered by Vehicle Service Contracts, all eligible claims with repair orders on or after December 4, 2014 are covered by this special coverage and must be submitted using the labor operation codes provided with this bulletin. Claims with repair orders prior to December 4, 2014 must be submitted to the Service Contract provider.
Vehicles InvolvedAll involved vehicles are identified by Vehicle Identification Number on the Applicable Warranties section in GM Global Warranty Management system. Dealership service personnel should always check this site to confirm vehicle involvement prior to beginning any required inspections and/or repairs. It is important to routinely use this tool to verify eligibility because not all similar vehicles may be involved regardless of description or option content.
@gyrfalcon found the link at NHTSA for this coverage adjustment. It's a PDF with more detail. Thank you.

Another Link: TSB #14311
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Hey guys, think I'm having issues related to this special coverage. I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze ECO manual transmission with about 65k miles on it. I bought the car used about 3 years ago at 25k miles.

Today I was about 1.5 hours away from home when I started getting brief, intermittent "Service Power Steering" messages and the associated light. It would come on for maybe 2 seconds, then go off again. Accompanying these messages, the tachometer, speedometer, and engine temperature gauges would all go to zero. As soon as the message went away, the gauges went back to normal. The road I was on started getting more and more windy. I didn't notice any significant changes in the way the car was handling (maybe a very slight mushiness, but it might have been placebo). This intermittent symptom became more and more frequent, until the message was on the entire time. I also got a Service Stabilitrak message. At this point, Service Power Steering was on constantly, and my tachometer, speedometer, and engine temp all were pegged at zero. The digital readout for speed read zero, and the digital readouts for distance remaining and instant fuel economy were (I think) dashes, like ----. It was pretty strange driving along with your cars' indications telling you the engine is off and you are stopped. I decided enough was enough, I didn't want to drive up into the mountains where I had no cellphone service and get stuck, so I stopped, turned the car off, gave it a few minutes, then turned it on and started driving home. I had a brief Service Power Steering one more time, and then no issues the remaining 75 miles home. When I turned my car back on, the battery voltage read 14.x, then slowly came down to 13.2 or so.

All the local dealers are closed today, so I am going to call in the morning, try to get my car in early this week, and I will report back.

I'm pretty fed up with this car. I have put a lot of money into it in the last few months. Recently had some major engine issues. Also had to have the clutch replaced which, shockingly, took about 3 weeks. The vehicle was JUST returned to me on Thursday after the clutch replacement, and now it's Sunday and I'm going to be calling the dealer first thing tomorrow morning. Definitely going to get this POS car off of my hands as soon as possible.
 

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Well, turns out I might not have this problem. Started my car up this morning and had a check engine light. Fantastic. Checked them after work, u0073 and u0109. I had an appointment to take the vehicle in to the dealer tomorrow morning, but they told me they would charge me the $140 diagnostic fee if the problem was NOT the $14311 warranty issue. Not thrilled about taking this vehicle to the shop for the seemingly 3rd totally unrelated problem in two months and being charged more money. Almost up to the value of the kbb value of the vehicle spent on repairs in the last two months already.
 

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I bought a used 2013 from a local dealership a month back. I started experiencing the radio off/on, no sound when signaling and service steering messages yesterday. I googled the symptoms and found this site and printed a copy of the bulletin. I called the dealership today and they are giving me the “we will have to run diagnostics to determine whether or not it is the problem” song and dance. Talked to another dealership and same thing. I think it’s just a cash grab. Where is the logic in ignoring a service bulletin? Why not perform that work and if I still experience similar symptoms then ding me diagnostics costs. I will walk away if they tell me they are going to do anything other than honour the service bulletin before doing anything else. This is why I hate dealing with dealerships.
 

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I bought a used 2013 from a local dealership a month back. I started experiencing the radio off/on, no sound when signaling and service steering messages yesterday. I googled the symptoms and found this site and printed a copy of the bulletin. I called the dealership today and they are giving me the “we will have to run diagnostics to determine whether or not it is the problem” song and dance. Talked to another dealership and same thing. I think it’s just a cash grab. Where is the logic in ignoring a service bulletin? Why not perform that work and if I still experience similar symptoms then ding me diagnostics costs. I will walk away if they tell me they are going to do anything other than honour the service bulletin before doing anything else. This is why I hate dealing with dealerships.
This has been the general way these independent dealers have conducted their repair business for about a Century. Sure the shop rate was lower back then. Will your Doctor just diagnose stuff for free, only charging if he finds a disease?
 

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I bought a used 2013 from a local dealership a month back. I started experiencing the radio off/on, no sound when signaling and service steering messages yesterday. I googled the symptoms and found this site and printed a copy of the bulletin. I called the dealership today and they are giving me the “we will have to run diagnostics to determine whether or not it is the problem” song and dance. Talked to another dealership and same thing. I think it’s just a cash grab. Where is the logic in ignoring a service bulletin? Why not perform that work and if I still experience similar symptoms then ding me diagnostics costs. I will walk away if they tell me they are going to do anything other than honour the service bulletin before doing anything else. This is why I hate dealing with dealerships.
This has been the general way these independent dealers have conducted their repair business for about a Century. Sure the shop rate was lower back then. Will your Doctor just diagnose stuff for free, only charging if he finds a disease?
Hi thanks for your reply. Please understand I have no issues paying for a diagnosis when I take my vehicle in for service. My point is, the symptoms are all pointing to the negative battery cable. Do that work. If I still have problems, okay, let’s run some diagnostics and see what’s found. I should have mentioned they said it would be 2 or 3 hours of diagnostics. Therefore, do the cable first.
 

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The manufacturer determines warranty policy and proceedure.
The dealer is not allowed, and will not be paid for, part and labor$, without being able to prove a failure.

However, if you print and read the bulletin in its entirety you will note that there is a paragraph indicating the dealer is to replace the cable if the customer experiences these type problems.....there is no mention of trying to duplicate and we all know (as well as Chevrolet) that the odds of the failure occuring during testing are remote.
Do make sure the terminals are clean so you don't embarass yourself, heh heh.

I'll speculate that you are doing this by phone and not face to face and you also are doing the inquirey without the bulletin in your hands.
The service writer (or manager) will not know or remember that this policy does not require a 'Proof of Failure' unless you put the document under their nose.

If you are getting too much pushback from the dealers and just want to fix the bloomin thing, buy a cable from chevy (it's cheap) and exchange it.

Chevy, as a manufacturer, has no problem paying to repair the concern.......in your case, you may have a money hungry dealer.

Rob
 

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Hi thanks for your reply. Please understand I have no issues paying for a diagnosis when I take my vehicle in for service. My point is, the symptoms are all pointing to the negative battery cable. Do that work. If I still have problems, okay, let’s run some diagnostics and see what’s found. I should have mentioned they said it would be 2 or 3 hours of diagnostics. Therefore, do the cable first.
If it would be a 2 or 3 hour diagnostic I would share your concern but its a .2 hour job if I remember correctly. I'm not sure I've ever authorized more than 1 Shop hour and of course that cost is absorbed by the dealer when the problem is found, if it is found. Hope it works out, I'd look for a different G.M. repair facility?
 

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The manufacturer determines warranty policy and proceedure.
The dealer is not allowed, and will not be paid for, part and labor$, without being able to prove a failure.

However, if you print and read the bulletin in its entirety you will note that there is a paragraph indicating the dealer is to replace the cable if the customer experiences these type problems.....there is no mention of trying to duplicate and we all know (as well as Chevrolet) that the odds of the failure occuring during testing are remote.
Do make sure the terminals are clean so you don't embarass yourself, heh heh.

I'll speculate that you are doing this by phone and not face to face and you also are doing the inquirey without the bulletin in your hands.
The service writer (or manager) will not know or remember that this policy does not require a 'Proof of Failure' unless you put the document under their nose.

If you are getting too much pushback from the dealers and just want to fix the bloomin thing, buy a cable from chevy (it's cheap) and exchange it.

Chevy, as a manufacturer, has no problem paying to repair the concern.......in your case, you may have a money hungry dealer.

Rob
Thanks to all. As it happens one was a call to a dealership who had the information readily accessible the other was a dealership I walked into and placed the entire bulletin on the advisors desk and asked if he was familiar with it. He said he’d seen a few and I’d have to sign off on a i hour minimum. Never know what it could be. I’d heard enough. I thanked him and took his card.

I took it in this morning. To the dealer I bought it from. Said I was booked to get my negative battery cable replaced as per the bulletin and had it with me just in case. It was booked and ready an hour later. Appears that I found a guy who knew what it was all about and I am pleased to report it appears to have solved the issue.

Again thanks for all of the opinions and advice. Great group.
 

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I recently purchased a 2015 Cruze sedan with 50,000 miles and I experienced the same symptoms described in this post. My VIN wasn't covered under this recall so I simply purchased the cable and bolt online and changed them myself. It only took about 5 minutes and it solved the problem. Apparently, there are more cars affected by this problem than they are willing to acknowledge.
 

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I recently purchased a 2015 Cruze sedan with 50,000 miles and I experienced the same symptoms described in this post. My VIN wasn't covered under this recall so I simply purchased the cable and bolt online and changed them myself. It only took about 5 minutes and it solved the problem. Apparently, there are more cars affected by this problem than they are willing to acknowledge.
Good to know.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 

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My 2014 Cruze diesel (93k miles) just started having some of the electrical issues that are described early in this thread. I have no problem changing the negative battery cable myself. Thank you all for your hard work on figuring this issue out. Could someone provide the part number that I should order? Thanks in advance.
Cheers.


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My 2014 Cruze diesel (93k miles) just started having some of the electrical issues that are described early in this thread. I have no problem changing the negative battery cable myself. Thank you all for your hard work on figuring this issue out. Could someone provide the part number that I should order? Thanks in advance.
Cheers.


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You should still be under warranty for this. However, I replaced mine at my expense because every time the issue happened I couldn't reproduce it at the dealer. The $25 it cost me was cheaper than the fuel to drive back and forth each time I tried to have them look at it.

2014 CTD I bought part #22754271 Runs about $20 online. You'll also need bolt #11561025 to connect the RVC negative cable to the terminal clamp (#3 in step 18 in link). However you could just buy the cable and take it to a local hardware store and find a bolt for 10 cents that would work.

Here is a link that gives a better description of the bulletin and the parts. And for me, I did not have to do any of the modifications listed. I just removed the old cable and replaced the new one using the existing hardware except for the new bolt. Just make sure you don't forget to run the cable through the plastic loop.

https://gm.oemdtc.com/1138/special-...battery-cable-loose-2011-2015-chevrolet-cruze
 

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If, like me, you have intermittent radio problems when starting - but everything else seems to work normally - this is likely the culprit. At least the RVC connection is. A temporary solution until you install the new cable is to remove the RVC cable, thoroughly clean the parts (eyelet, nut, and battery terminal) with a wire brush, and reinstall, firmly securing the nut. This seems to have corrected that problem.

I've also been experiencing a lack of dynamic alternator voltage. I believe this same RVC connection is the problem, as the BCM controls that. It seems to work better in the short time I've driven it (it got down to 13.6 volts) but I'll find out for sure Monday.

Also, the bolts required for the BCM on the new cable are M6-1.0 x 10mm flange bolts. About $1 for two at Home Depot.
 

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One more thing - if you have an instrument cluster backlighting LED that works intermittently, this might fix that problem too. My tach had a "bad" LED that dimmed the area around the "4". I haven't had that problem since replacing the ground cable.
 

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I think I may be also experiencing some of the same problems as above. While driving on the highway two weeks ago the ABS/Service Stabilitrak lights came on and stayed on through my drive home. A few days later (did not drive the car in between) I took it to the dealer but on the way the ABS/SS lights turned off. They ended up replacing a sensor in my front left passenger wheel, but after I picked the car back up and drove back on the highway the lights came right back on. The following morning, turned my car on, pulled out the driveway and the lights turned off.

For the past week I've driven my car (city driving) and there have been no ABS/SS light so I thought I thought it might be a fluke, but last night I drove on the highway again and those same lights returned. The lights are now turning on and off with more frequency depending in city vs highway driving but the car itself seem so to be driving fine.

All in all, do you all recommend printing the service bulletin and showing it to the dealer when I go in tomorrow for service? These lights are getting annoying and I just want my car to be safe. Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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Honestly, I would pull the battery cable, take off the accessory cable nut/bolt, wire brush the cable eyelet and battery cable connectors, and tighten it back up. Takes 15 minutes or so and should solve your problem.
 

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Honestly, I would pull the battery cable, take off the accessory cable nut/bolt, wire brush the cable eyelet and battery cable connectors, and tighten it back up. Takes 15 minutes or so and should solve your problem.
Thanks so much for the tip! I’m not very car savvy so I’m not sure if I could do it myself, but I’ll definitely look into this. I’ll let you all know what happens in case people have this same problem in the future.
 
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