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Discussion Starter #21
Just reread the post from ChevyMgr:

insufficient crimp
What idiot in their right mind would weaken a main power cable with crimp? No wonder these things are failing. This is a cost driven design flaw that will now cost GM more to fix than if they had done it right the first time around. I guess this falls into the "not enough time/money to do it right the first time but plenty of time/money to fix it later."
 

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WTF I paid chevy $180 to fix this problem 2 years ago. Driving down the road and boom lost power and that stabili trak info came up on the dash. They said they looked all over my car and finally found one of the cables was loose behind the battery terminal... not under warranty then. but is now. thanks
 

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WTF I paid chevy $180 to fix this problem 2 years ago. Driving down the road and boom lost power and that stabili trak info came up on the dash. They said they looked all over my car and finally found one of the cables was loose behind the battery terminal... not under warranty then. but is now. thanks
I'd take it back with the receipt/workorder. I'm pretty sure GM will refund the repair cost and replace the cable under this Special Coverage number.
 

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Just reread the post from ChevyMgr:



What idiot in their right mind would weaken a main power cable with crimp? No wonder these things are failing. This is a cost driven design flaw that will now cost GM more to fix than if they had done it right the first time around. I guess this falls into the "not enough time/money to do it right the first time but plenty of time/money to fix it later."
That's what happens when the folks with the green eye shades do the design and engineering!

Added Comments: Curiosity got to me, so I went out to the garage to see what the battery cables look like on our cars.

Both cable attachments on our 12 year old P5 are crimped to the cables. Still tight and no problems with them in over 92K miles. This car had 100% Japanese content when we purchased it new, so I'm guessing the QC was much better and the electrical loads are far less in number and demand.

The battery attachments on the 2 year old Civic are different. The positive cable is bolted to the post clamp. The negative cables have molded on plugs with plastic locking sleeves around them to attach to the negative fixture that clamps to the battery post. No crimping here.
 

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Just got notified of another special coverage. I don't have the details yet but it's to resolve the loose Negative Battery Cable some people are experiencing. We have had many members report problems with this cable and its connections. I'll post more information when I receive it.
This notice originally was issued in May 2014. Reissued in December 3, 2014.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
This notice originally was issued in May 2014. Reissued in December 3, 2014.
The reissue extended the warranty on the negative battery cable.
 

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I wonder how they are supposed to diagnose bad battery cables on cars that haven't had a serious power loss issue?

I was fooling around with mine and the cable has 28 ohms of resistance from end to end. Seems a mite high when it should be below 5 ohms.
 

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If anybody is interested, just buy part# 95281536 and install it yourself. I'm doing this to make sure I don't get a problem. It's like a 25 dollar cable. So much easier than waiting for a fault to occur, scheduling service, etc. If it were an expensive part it would be one thing, but this 25 dollar cable, not worth the hassle.
 

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I wonder if anyone has tried soldering the crimped connections? Granted, it would take a large iron or gun, but might be temporary fix until you could get it in for the warranty coverage.
 

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From the outside they look exactly the same, different part number though. The crimps on both the new and replacement are shrink wrapped. By the way its really beginning to suck to try to type on this forum.
 

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Went to the dealer this morning with a copy of the warranty extension i printed from the first page of this thread. Dealer is ordering the cable and will install free when i come back home from holiday stuff. In the mean time i had them get after the crimp connection with a pair of vice grips and inspect all ground connections for tightness. Lets see if i can make it till the 5th before i have another issue..
 

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This is the negative cable from the battery to the front Frame gounding spot right? What makes this GM cable so special, that it couldn't be replaced in an emergency with $5-$10 negative battery cable that you can buy at your local farm supply or even warmart? Or cut the end off the factory cable, and use an aftermarket end connection at the battery.

Am I understanding the cable that they are replacing correctly? It doesn't even run all the way down to the starter like old cars did. It runs to the main ground connection that is part of the body assembly.

I'm not happy about all these recalls and issues with a newer car either, but at least GM acknoldged an issue, and the fix appears to be pretty easy, and won't leave you stranded. Worst case there's a walmart nearly everywhere that should have a cable that would work for this in an emergency.

I spent 12 years driving Oldsmobile Intrigues with dimming headlights, that GM called an overload demand due to the smog pump running. Sure the smog pump triggered the flickering, but it didn't go away, and it was something in the alternator, and the alternator on the 3.5L LX5 shortstar is a lot of work for removal.

While I'm not thrilled with all these issues occuring lately, at least we're being made aware of them, and with the knowledge of the issue, any shop anywhere could address this issue, even if it was a temporary solution.
 

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I use to have the same problem and if you are using internet explorer put the site in to compatibility mode under tools and the typing will work like normal.
 

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Driving last night and I start to hear a chime. Any and every "Service _______" message cycles through the DIC and I lose power. Pull over and turn the key, chimes, service messages and nothing... I had just read the beginning of this thread the other day, so I open my hood in the dark and check the battery cables. Negative is tight and won't budge, positive is under that plastic cover so I just grab the cover and move it slightly and hear a 'click, click, click'. Get back into car and 'theft attempt detected' is on the DIC. Turn the key and it starts but "Service theft detection system" comes on and the theft lock lights up. Could this be related to this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Driving last night and I start to hear a chime. Any and every "Service _______" message cycles through the DIC and I lose power. Pull over and turn the key, chimes, service messages and nothing... I had just read the beginning of this thread the other day, so I open my hood in the dark and check the battery cables. Negative is tight and won't budge, positive is under that plastic cover so I just grab the cover and move it slightly and hear a 'click, click, click'. Get back into car and 'theft attempt detected' is on the DIC. Turn the key and it starts but "Service theft detection system" comes on and the theft lock lights up. Could this be related to this issue?
Possibly. It could also be a bad battery or faulty alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I'm glad you found the problem.
 

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Can anyone give a little instruction as to how to remove the negative battery cable... I was looking at mine and its wrapped together with another cable after it travels down towards the bottom of the car from the battery. I would try to stick my hands in there and unwrap everything but I can't find any room for these potato hands. Any advice or instruction would be greatly appreciated!
Tommy
 
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