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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There have been some conversations lately on here about the inconsistent frequency response of the stock sound systems in the Cruze. I have the six speaker non-Bose base system.

I decided to take a baseline measurement in mine, to use as the "before" measurement. I am getting ready to dive in and replace the stock speakers as part of a whole package of mods I'm making, so I figured I better get this done now.

I only included the portion of the graph from 20Hz to 4kHz. It flattens out pretty well above 4k, and this range is where most stuff is happening in normal music anyway.

The graph I got is entirely unsurprising, based on what I hear when listening to music that I know well. Other than the lack of low end, the thing I find most annoying is that big hole at 930Hz, which is part of a larger valley from about 600 to about 1200Hz.

I am little bummed now that I didn't take any measurements from the loaner RS that I had while my engine was getting done (it had the Bose premium system). It would have been interesting to compare. It had WAY better bass response, but still sounded like it had some weird peaks and valleys in some places in the spectrum.

Taken with all doors/windows closed, with CD quality pink noise file, with bass, mid, and treble set to the middle line, and front/rear set to the middle line, with a Behringer ECM8000 mic and using REQWizard freeware set to 1/12 RTA. Volume set to "40":

https://imageshack.com/a/img921/4969/YC2YoD.jpg
 

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I'm interested in seeing how the bass response changes once you upgrade. In my experience, in 3 different vehicles, upgrading just speakers (no amp) resulted in much clearer and sharper mids and highs, but a huge loss in bass response. I always attributed that to the difference in ohms, since (most) stock system use low wattage 8ohm speakers, and most aftermarket speakers are higher wattage 4ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm interested in seeing how the bass response changes once you upgrade. In my experience, in 3 different vehicles, upgrading just speakers (no amp) resulted in much clearer and sharper mids and highs, but a huge loss in bass response. I always attributed that to the difference in ohms, since (most) stock system use low wattage 8ohm speakers, and most aftermarket speakers are higher wattage 4ohm.
Bass response will be much better, since I'm putting in a sub too. I can take a graph with the sub unplugged, though, if it interests you.

I am keeping the stock head unit, but it will be feeding an Audison DSP, JBL 5-channel amp (45w x 4 and 320w x 1), all Focal speakers up front, and a 12" Infinity sub in the trunk. I have the wiring all done, I put in Stinger Speedwire from the head unit to the trunk, and I put in new 14 gauge speaker wires to all the doors, feeding them through the stock Molex connectors. I now have to take the doors apart and do a bunch of sound deadening there and in the trunk (using NVX product), then install the 6 speakers up front, the electronics in the trunk, and put in my sub. I already have the sub box ready (1 cu. ft. sealed enclosure with poly packing).

I expect that between the sound deadening material, the decent speakers, and the 1/3 octave EQ in the DSP, I should be able to do quite a lot with that spiky line in the graph.
 

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Bass response will be much better, since I'm putting in a sub too. I can take a graph with the sub unplugged, though, if it interests you.

I am keeping the stock head unit, but it will be feeding an Audison DSP, JBL 5-channel amp (45w x 4 and 320w x 1), all Focal speakers up front, and a 12" Infinity sub in the trunk. I have the wiring all done, I put in Stinger Speedwire from the head unit to the trunk, and I put in new 14 gauge speaker wires to all the doors, feeding them through a convenient void in the stock Molex connectors. I now have to take the doors apart and do a bunch of sound deadening there and in the trunk (using NVX product), then install the 6 speakers up front, the electronics in the trunk, and put in my sub. I already have the sub box ready (1 cu. ft. sealed enclosure with poly packing).

I expect that between the sound deadening material, the decent speakers, and the 1/3 octave EQ in the DSP, I should be able to do quite a lot with that spiky line in the graph.

I have taken a lot of photos, and will do a thread once I'm all done with this.
Sweet so you're doin it the right way haha. I shoulda figured considering your sound graph. Most people say "I don't have enough bass which speakers should I buy" and I always cringe knowing that they'll lose what little bass they already have by only swapping speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am especially interested in the combination of that tall spike at around 100Hz and the hole at 930Hz. For me, that reinforces my speculation that there is some kind of standing wave issue inside the doors, what with the clearly audible resonances present in the door skins and all.

If I get time (I don't have a lot of time to set aside for this project), I would actually like to install the sound deadener in the doors, and then put the stock speakers back in and take another measurement. It would be really interesting to see how the graph changes with ONLY the addition of sound deadener in the doors, and nothing else.

It's a significant time investment for me, though, to put all four doors back together again stock, then have to take them apart a second time to put the new speakers in. I am ALMOST interested enough to commit to that, but haven't decided yet. I think knowing the answer might help a lot of folks besides me, and that might be the thing that decides me in favor of it...
 
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