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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, it appears the fuel from the car sitting has rung my injectors a few mechanics have told me so, either way if I cant get a hold of decent performance injectors to replace these then I'll try to clean them

Anyone have experience with aftermarket injectors on these cars without re-tuning the car? Which ones?

If I wont reap any benefit then I'll try to clean, in which case which is the most beneficial way to do so?

2011 1.4T 48,200 miles

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Not sure if diesel... Not that it changes anything.

I'd really just stick with stock. If the flow doesn't match the engine will run poorly. Technically a tune helps that but it's really time consuming to get right, so most of the time it's done poorly... Which for a race setting isn't a big deal but if you are driving this thing for hours on end on the interstate those problems stack up.
 

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Can't run different flow rate injectors on the stock tune.

You can have them professionally cleaned, or just run come cleaner through a tank of gas.

At <50K, they really shouldn't be dirty enough to affect the spray pattern. Do you use top tier fuel in it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can't run different flow rate injectors on the stock tune.

You can have them professionally cleaned, or just run come cleaner through a tank of gas.

At <50K, they really shouldn't be dirty enough to affect the spray pattern. Do you use top tier fuel in it?
I bought it used with 19 thousand miles on it 5 years ago, the gas that was in it was in there from July 2017 to early this month because I store it in the winter, I read on this forum you dont need to treat the fuel with stabilizer because it's a vacuum sealed fuel system but it appears the gas still may have expired, I have all the symptom of less than perfect fuel injectors, so not being able to alter flow rate means basically no performance injectors?

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I moved this out of the diesel section to the Gen 1 gas section.

New injectors are fairly cheap for the 1.4T last time I looked. Easy enough to change out on a port-injected motor.

Yeah, running the larger injectors with the stock tune will result in overfueling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I moved this out of the diesel section to the Gen 1 gas section.

New injectors are fairly cheap for the 1.4T last time I looked. Easy enough to change out on a port-injected motor.

Yeah, running the larger injectors with the stock tune will result in overfueling.
Sorry, didnt I tend on posting in diesel forum, that's what I was afraid of, I'll just replace them. I shouldn't need to do the whole fuel rail assembly correct ? So I'll order the 4 injectors and get that done asap

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I moved this out of the diesel section to the Gen 1 gas section.

New injectors are fairly cheap for the 1.4T last time I looked. Easy enough to change out on a port-injected motor.

Yeah, running the larger injectors with the stock tune will result in overfueling.
Are you aware of any reason the fuel injectors would set off a "service stability control" light ? I believe the car to be miss firing still but not throwing the P0300 anymore

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I bought it used with 19 thousand miles on it 5 years ago, the gas that was in it was in there from July 2017 to early this month because I store it in the winter, I read on this forum you dont need to treat the fuel with stabilizer because it's a vacuum sealed fuel system but it appears the gas still may have expired,
What's it smell like when you take the gas cap off?

Petroleum can last for thousands of years.
Real gasoline for a couple of years.

Anything with alcohol or other oxygenating substances in it will oxidize all by itself in a sealed container. Eventually turns into a brown goo, sort of like varnish. You don't want that in your carburetor and your REALLY don't want it in your fuel injectors.

Around here, we can buy 'outdoor power equipment gas', which is alcohol free marine gas from 89-91 octane. Fill your tank with that in the fall and it should still be good in the spring. Costs me about a dollar more per gallon than 93 octane E10.

I always buy 6 gallons in the fall for my generator so I'm ready for any ice storms, whatever's left goes in the lawn mowers in April. Also buy a gallon twice a year for the chain saws, which is what it's marketed for in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What's it smell like when you take the gas cap off?

Petroleum can last for thousands of years.
Real gasoline for a couple of years.

Anything with alcohol or other oxygenating substances in it will oxidize all by itself in a sealed container. Eventually turns into a brown goo, sort of like varnish. You don't want that in your carburetor and your REALLY don't want it in your fuel injectors.

Around here, we can buy 'outdoor power equipment gas', which is alcohol free marine gas from 89-91 octane. Fill your tank with that in the fall and it should still be good in the spring. Costs me about a dollar more per gallon than 93 octane E10.

I always buy 6 gallons in the fall for my generator so I'm ready for any ice storms, whatever's left goes in the lawn mowers in April. Also buy a gallon twice a year for the chain saws, which is what it's marketed for in the first place.
That's awsome information to know, where to you buy that fuel at? Outdoor equipment retailer or gas station?

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That's awsome information to know, where to you buy that fuel at? Outdoor equipment retailer or gas station?
There really isn't any in my county that I know of, so I get it from a propane and fuel oil dealer in Nashville which has a 89 octane E0 pump. There are more choices in the Lansing area, mostly gas stations.
https://www.pure-gas.org/

Click the link above and find your state's abbreviation and click on that.
Ten years ago, all I'd find in lower Michigan would be a handful of airfields and marinas, now you're within 10-20 miles of one just about everywhere you might be.
 

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Drain/siphon the old gas out of the tank and fill it with a fresh tank. See how it runs like that before replacing the injectors.

We put E0 in our classic BMW when it goes into hibernation over the winter, and it usually comes back out of it just fine, sometimes with a fair bit of cranking, sometimes running in a second.
 

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Not a cruze but I had fuel in my 2003 sierra feom 2012 until 2017. My truck fired up and ran just fine with that gas. I actually started to drain it then seen the gas still looked good. Dumped it back in and ran it.
 

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What are the symptoms that led you to the fuel injectors?
Depending on how bad it is, there are different paths to take.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What are the symptoms that led you to the fuel injectors?
Depending on how bad it is, there are different paths to take.
Rough idle, inconsistently, it will idle rough but then after a little while it seems like it bucks or is stuttering, seems like it’s having a hard time staying awake

Poor performance my mpg have dropped 2 mpg

Misfire, pulled coil pack wire brush everything clean checked gap took apart the boot springs as well loaded it with dielectric grease put it back, that helped a lot but still misfires under load

On highway when going to pass someone in 5th at about 4500 rpm the car start studdering or jerking a lot, I don’t get the p0300 code anymore but still has symptoms of misfire

always been my common practice to check fuel filter/pump (not dropping the gas tank lol) so with this newer car I figured injectors are my next btime st bet and all my mechanic friends agree (which never happens)

I want my smooth idle and gas mileage back, this is my leisure vehicle, tough to convince the wife to take this car out when it gets less gas mileage then the crossover Mazda we drive
 

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I store the cruze in winter too, I put 6.5oz stabil in the tank and then fill with non-oxy (non ethentol) gas until the nozzle clicks off, but since I have the eco I put in another ~2.8 gal from a gas can to get the tank full.

I then park it on a tarp (humid garage), fog the cylinders with stabil fogging oil (probably not really necessary), and hook up a battery tender and leave it for 5 months.

Starts up in spring like I never left it.

Biggest mistake people make around here when winterizing anything with engine, lawn mowers especially, is using gas with ethanol and not stabilizing prior to storage. Leads to a lot of carb issues come spring. Lot of crappy sounding snow blowers at the first snow fall too.
 

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I keep thinking your coil pack's performacne has degraded.
Check the ground wire for the ignition system to. I had this screw back off on me when my car was new.


I would expect your injectors to be sparkling by now, as its been out of storage for a bit.
The stock injectors are the most efficient, excellent spray pattern and atomization.

Takes about 5 minutes to pop off the fuel rail and inspect the injectors. Take a picture of the tips if you do!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I keep thinking your coil pack's performacne has degraded.
Check the ground wire for the ignition system to. I had this screw back off on me when my car was new.


I would expect your injectors to be sparkling by now, as its been out of storage for a bit.
The stock injectors are the most efficient, excellent spray pattern and atomization.
I'll check the ground as suggested, rest of coil pack and what not is mint, cars never idled perfect but clearly gets much worse after each hibernation

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