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Yesterday I did a big clean on the car and noticed a lot of stone chips. Lot of them on the hood, some on the bumper and mirrors. I know I sholud 3M all of it but didn't do it. And as I moved and don't have my garage anymore was to lazy on this very cold winter to repair them one by one. Good thing is even chipped no rust is visible but the paint layer seems to be very thin, honestly I think I never saw a paint on any car to be so thin. I plan to 3M the hood and mirrors soon as I am a 95% highway driver and the cruze is a stone chip magnet. How good is the 3M? heard that it leaves a yellow deposit on white cars? I remember on my honda's that if I didn't mask the stone chip right away it rusted in days but on the cruze some chips were there all winter long and the metal under the paint is like new...I think that they give the cuze some rust protection before the paint so It's good news. With a good touch up job it looks new again.
 

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Well 3m is a good brand to use...if its removing adhesive and applying tape of some sort. But...as for paint chips, id rather recommend using this : LANGKA Complete Paint Chip Repair Kit: Repair scratches on your car without a professional paint job! touch-up paint, scratch repair kit, chip repair, . Theres some product reviews of this and I gotta say that im a little neutral of the reviews simply because I don't think people knew how to use it lol. Personally, ive never tried it but it looks to me that its how dealerships repair rock chips in paint if you come to their body shop and ask for assistance. Ive done that and I watched em repair 4 rock chips. Took em 15 minutes to do 3 small ones on my bumper. If this doesn't work, get some touch up paint from your dealer to match your paint code, get some matches, and dip a match stick in your paint bottle, and lightly brush some excess off, then light brush the paint on the chipped spot. Using this verus using the provided brush helps it go in the chip better by setting it down in the damaged area. I did this and it turned out well.
 

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My dog bones look like Swiss Cheese with chips..
 

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Honestly, id much rather just do touch up paint the right way because over time if you don't do it correctly, it will just flake off and the chip will still be there. I just touch mine up with my brush included in the touch up paint bottle, and I take my time doing it. Sure its kinda globbed on there once im done, but its better than bare material exposed lol.
 
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Im highly disappointed with the paint on mine, my fiancés 8 year old civics paint is in better shape then my cruze after 1 winter....

No doubt the paint on the CIVIC is better. Mainly because all manufactures have switched over to water based paint due to regulations in the last 5 years. The new paint just lacks the hardness of the older solvent based systems. The Cruze is not the only model or make that deals with the issue, it's widespread across the entire industry.

So far, I only have a couple of chips on mine. I can only suggest that you don't tailgate, stay away from 18 wheelers and try to stay in the middle lane while on the highway, since a lot of the garbage on the road is contained on the shoulders.
 
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Yesterday I did a big clean on the car and noticed a lot of stone chips. Lot of them on the hood, some on the bumper and mirrors. I know I sholud 3M all of it but didn't do it. And as I moved and don't have my garage anymore was to lazy on this very cold winter to repair them one by one. Good thing is even chipped no rust is visible but the paint layer seems to be very thin, honestly I think I never saw a paint on any car to be so thin. I plan to 3M the hood and mirrors soon as I am a 95% highway driver and the cruze is a stone chip magnet. How good is the 3M? heard that it leaves a yellow deposit on white cars? I remember on my honda's that if I didn't mask the stone chip right away it rusted in days but on the cruze some chips were there all winter long and the metal under the paint is like new...I think that they give the cuze some rust protection before the paint so It's good news. With a good touch up job it looks new again.
I have a hood kit which covers the first 24" of the hood and the front of the fenders, I also did the side mirrors, the rear bumper, the trunk behind the license plate and the dog-legs but I did them with bulk film and cut it myself rather than pay the premium for the pre-cut kits. For the hood kit you should have a helper because it's a pretty big sheet, you also want to do it indoors as the slightest breeze will be a problem.

As for yellowing, I haven't noticed any, but I only installed it last July.Once it's applied you clean it just like paint, embedded dirt and bugs come out with a clay-bar, and you can wax it. I know the mask itself may yellow over the years but I haven't heard anything about paint damage - it's UV protection, so it may actually be that when you peel it off that area will be cleaner (more white) than the rest of the car.

Also, I put clear headlight protection film on the headlamps and fogs to keep them from being damaged - very happy with it so far.

I may do the bumper, if I do I'll be buying bulk film rather than a bumper kit - I'd rather do it in sections than try to cope with that large a sheet with all sections pre-cut out and trying to wrestle with getting it on straight.

As for touch-up paint on a Summit-White car: white appliance paint may be better than auto-touch up paint, but I haven't tried it yet.
 

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new here. ive been lurking for a little while. i have had a few vehicles done in the past. im trying to remember the "best" kit. all of the wraps are not created equal. imo its best to have it installed by a professional. usually for cars that have aggressive front lines they make kits pre cut. i have had one on a vehicle for 10yrs with no yellowing at all. It was the best brand at the time.
 

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So what brand was it?
 

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I'm going to give you some good advice on how to fix those little chips 'til they're almost impossible to see.

1. Clean the depth of the chipped spot as best you can even a pocket knife to clean crud and wax out of the chipped or scratched area.
2. Apply OEM touch up paint to the chipped area and fill the chipped spot even if the paint is higher than the level of the original paint.
3. Let it dry over night or a couple hours.
4 Obtain a bottle of 3M glaze finish (not sure that's the technical name but it's very light polish like cream liquid)
5. Wrap a credit card tightly on the bottom edge with cloth material...I used a cotton t-shirt material
6. Apply an amount of the 3M liquid to the chipped area no wider or longer than the chip if possible
7. Hold the credit card and material between the thumb and fore finger of both hands keeping the material as tight as possible
8. Rub the newly painted area with a forward and backward motion until you reduce the lump of the new paint to the level of the surface of the paint. Don't scrape any further forward and backward than the length and width of the chipped spot.
9. The credit card and cloth won't damage the paint or remove any beyond where you applied it to the chipped area
10. Polish the affected area several times with you favorite synthetic carnauba polish and you won't be able to see the scratch/chipped area

I used this method on my Vette for about three 1/8th inch or a little larger chips and you can't find them. Once you're done with the color touch up, you could do the same treatment with clear coat as well.
 

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I tried the Langka blob eliminator mentioned in a previous post. It did an OK job on the hood and door. I also had a good, deep scratch on the inside of the rear door jam. I only rubbed the Langka blob stuff for about 30 seconds and it ate right through the clear coat and top layer of paint, leaving a big gray smudge spot. The paint must be extra thin in the door jams. Just a warning to anyone who might have a similar problem.

I watched a bunch of videos on how to blend paint, and I am going to try spraying the door jam. If that looks like crap then I guess it goes to the body shop.

Next time I get a rock chip I will try the 3m Glaze suggested by ParisTNDude. Sounds a little less harsh than the Langka chemicals.
 

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Then there's always Dr Colorchip www.drcolorchip.com
 

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new here. ive been lurking for a little while. i have had a few vehicles done in the past. im trying to remember the "best" kit. all of the wraps are not created equal. imo its best to have it installed by a professional. usually for cars that have aggressive front lines they make kits pre cut. i have had one on a vehicle for 10yrs with no yellowing at all. It was the best brand at the time.
I have the hood front bumper, front fenders, mirrors and headlights covered with Xpel ultimate via a pre-cut kit on my ctd. Even though it was done professionally there r small gaps of paińt unprotected my the film. I didn't want to spend the additional $$$ on a customized fit. Why Xpel ultimate? The 10 yr warranty parts and labour from yellowing cracking and delaminating. The plastic film sure minimizes FOD
 

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anybody tried clear plasti-dip on the hood for protection? I am thinking of giving it go it seems no local store carries the clear and you have to order it from the web.
Use the 3m spray on stuff that can be found even at Walmart. Someone already tried dip on the front and found damage from rocks and or foreign object strikes in the paint when they removed it.
 
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